Three Star arrangeball has arrived!

[pachiwall]

Gotta love UPS! I can see by my tracking #s that my package left the Dayton,Ohio sorting facility for delivery at 6:09am. I am excited, hoping it arrives before I go to work at noon. NOPE! I come home on my break at 3pm...no package. My room mate goes to work at 6pm, and will bring it inside for me. NOPE! I get home at 9:45pm and find this on my porch,DSCF8238.JPG Not at the far side of the porch, up against the door...but barely up the steps, at the front edge of the porch, CLEARLY visible from the street! Thank GOD it wasn't stolen off my porch!Brought it inside, and unboxed it.DSCF8239.JPG Styrofoam and Saran wrap.to protect the trays and lever, there was more Styrofoam around it in the box...buried in Styrofoam peanuts. Underneath it all I found THIS! DSCF8240.JPG Of course it has no key, so I had to pull up the eBay pics to study the inside, particularly the latches, and where they were in relation to the handle holes, and weather they move up...or down. After I got it open, I didn't latch it for over an hour, until I figured out how to get back inside easily. The 1st time I opened it...I resorted to using a small pocket screwdriver to work the linkage of each latch through the gap between the door and frame. Now I see that I can put my pinkey in the handle hole, and just above the front edge of the hole I can pull down the hook that latches it. This activates both latches. I am going to take the lock to my locksmith and see if he can get a key made. I replaced the balls with shiney balls, and tested it. It appears to work correctly...as far as I can tell what correct is! Of course it has its issues...but that was to be expected. What would I do with a machine that didn't need any work! 4 bulbs in the grid are burned out. At least I HOPE they are burned out, and it is not a bigger problem! As properly disclosed in the auction, the cell does have cracks and is separating from the plywood. DSCF8247.JPGDSCF8248.JPGDSCF8249.JPGDSCF8250.JPGThe eBay pics didn't show them well, But I knew it would need a cell replacement because Cardwwi stated so...and he does great work, so his opinion was golden! This is not a problem...and I think it will become my first cell replacement. Do you think I should get this background duplicated...or do you think I would be just as good going with an already reproduced one like this. I am not such a purist that I NEED the exact same background. I wish I was good enough at computers to see what it would look like with this background. I'll do it the old fashioned way...I will imagine it! I need to use a volt meter to determine the voltage of the bulbs. They are screw base bulbs...so I don't have to unsolder them and resolder them! here is the lower door open.DSCF8243.JPG Here is the payout lights on DSCF8251.JPG Speaking of which...I was under the impression that winnings could be carried over into the next game, or paid out by pushing the button. If you put a coin in to start a new game, it pays the credits that are lit up ad starts fresh. Is this normal? It works perfectly on "gold" dollars...I bought $50 at the bank to stock it.

[Lt Teddy]

I have one quite similar and it is suppose to payout after each game. You can push the payout button and it is suppose to cash out so you do not have to start the game over. If you look at my machine it is easy to make a placard for the cover on the bottom. This background is common to alot of machines and has been called a balloon machine by alot of people. I have never tried to replace the cell but it would be interesting to see something not to0 exotic ( lol ) or exotic whichever you like. Their should be a switch to move so that the machine either pays a max of five or ten. Mine is in Washington State and I am in Arizona and when I get home if you have any questions or want pictures let me know.

[emmadog]

Congrats on your new machine. The credits don't carry over- they get paid out one way the another before a new game can be started. The only feature that carries over are bonuses if they're not used on machines that have them.
I'd keep the background the same since that's part of the character of the machine. Having said that, I've changed backgrounds on one arrangeball I restored. I kept the same design but changed the color. My first machine had the same background as yours and frankly, its probably the least attractive cel design I've seen on an arrangeball. I remember thinking to myself that surely the artist could have tried a little harder.

[pachiwall]

Does this indicate date?DSCF8259.JPG My guess is probably not...any clue how old this machine is? My guess is mid '70s because of relays DSCF8254.JPG instead of circuit boards. I have seen this DSCF8255.JPG round thing on other arrangeball machines...what is it? Plus a few random close up shots of the inside.DSCF8263.JPGThat is one BIG relay! DSCF8268.JPG Not as much crud and rust as I expected on the coin slide. DSCF8267.JPG Fair amount of rust on coin mechanism, but not bad, it will clean up just fine. The counter next to it stays on zero. DSCF8270.JPG Plastic coin acceptor. I don't see any means to adjust for coin size, fortunately $1 coins work great. DSCF8275.JPG This switch has a capacitor soldered inline. Looks original, and is the only switch that has it. DSCF8279.JPGThis is the solenoid that opens the door below the grid. Labeled "ATTACK" for some reason. Each ball that falls into the open door pays 1 coin immediately. I cant find any switch for a max payout adjustment. When I dropped a ball in each slot to see which bulbs are burned out, all the pay lights at the top lit up, 4 yellow #1, 1 blue #3, & 4 red #2 = 15. Press the button and pays 15 coins. I haven't tried dropping a few balls into the door as well to see if instant payout can be added to the 15 that registers on the pay lights at top. The #16 bulb flickers, and sometimes no lights on the grid light up as balls fall into the pockets...when the correct combination is hit it still lights up the pay light, even though the grid is not. When a coin is inserted whatever was hit lights for a few seconds. Other than that it seems to function correctly. Coin tray has some cracks, and 2 pieces move inward, but not broken off. They can be epoxied from the back side and fix will be invisible. Heavy pitting and rust at the bottom of the frame. Will clean it up as best as I can, and just deal with it. I could tell before I bid on it, and decided to not let it bother me. Plastic chrome wearing off in the high wear areas...normal wear, and to be expected. The clear layer of the cell was lifting from the board so bad at the bottom that the balls always got stuck at certain pockets. I cut it off ( as little as possible to make balls pass) in order to keep from having to open the cabinet, then the front door to push balls into pockets on every game. I needs a cell replacement anyhow...so this don't bother me. Overall, I am very happy with this machine. Glad to finally get an arrangeball machine...\now all I need is to find a Powerflash!

[emmadog]

I think you're close to your estimation of manufacture date. If there is a date it will look something like this : 8.50 which means August of 1975. Just add 25 to the number which will be in the high forties to mid fifties. Although for your machine I'd think it won't be any higher than very early 50's.
The round thing is likely a slow turning motor that calculates what is owed. Rack up a bunch of points with the machine open and press the payout and see if you can hear it turning. It's an older but reliable method of score calculation.
If there is a coin adjustment it may not be obvious, all it is typically is a small metal or plastic piece that can move up and down a few mm to regulate what size coin comes thru or gets rejected. Your machine has a coin return so there has to be some mechanism to allow for that.
Your machine may not have a switch to set max pay. The vast majority don't but if its there its usually a small slider switch on a circuit board.
The flickering lights are almost definitely caused by corrosion and bad connections in the sockets. There's an insulator in those sockets that over time dries out and can cause problems and is why I prefer the typical arrangeball lights with the silicone sockets and prongs-they just slip on and off. Clean the sockets really well and buy all new bulbs. Actually, you should clean the entire machine and remove all the dirt and grime so it won't cause problems later.

[pachiwall]

That sounds correct on the round thing. After pushing the button, or after inserting a coin...a clicking sound can be heard from that area. I word it that way because I haven't checked with the door open yet. I have to hold it with one hand to keep it from falling over. All the grid lights stay lit until a full revolution is made and the clicking stops. If winnings are due, there might be 2 coins at first, with several clicks followed by another coin or two. I believe each payment is handled by one of the relays which has a contact waiting for the motor to rotate by, creating a pause between coins.

[hanabi]

My Fuji Mahjong Arrange ball (with all the relays) is dated 1973

so presume yours to be around the same period

[emmadog]

Yep that's gotta be what it is. I have one machine with that type of payout system and it pays out as the wiper arms pass over the contacts.

[Phulkrum]

Congrats man!

I was looking at that one myself, but with the full restore i'm starting on the single shot, I could only sit there and preform aversion therapy every time i got the itch to bid on it by nearly punching my self in the face.. lol

anyways,

congrats again! so now I'm holding off for a power flash to become available

[pachiwall]

Congrats man!

I was looking at that one myself, but with the full restore i'm starting on the single shot, I could only sit there and preform aversion therapy every time i got the itch to bid on it by nearly punching my self in the face.. lol

anyways,

congrats again! so now I'm holding off for a power flash to become available

Well, I have to say that the "aversion therapy" seems to be working great! Well, at least for me. Hope that single shot is doing well! I removed the jackpot assembly for cleaning. Didn't take any before pics other than the ones I already had.DSCF8267.JPGDSCF8268.JPG Lots of scrubbing and polishing later.DSCF8281.JPG I put the coin tube into a vibrating tumbler...like used to clean brass for reloading, not the rotating rock tumbler. Learn from my mistake!#1, the tube is too large to tumble around in the bowl. #2, Black Beauty (metal slag for sandblasting) is too coarse, and will remove metal you want to keep! DSCF8283.JPG The lower right corner was resting against the bottom of the bowl, and was abraded away. I'm not sure what conditions caused this DSCF8286.JPG A deep gouge was worn into the flat plate where the "low token" switch was mounted.DSCF8288.JPG It is actually kind of deep! It won't affect function...but I don't like it! The assembly cleaned up nice!DSCF8289.JPG

[Phulkrum]

Hope that single shot is doing well!

yes it is... the hardest part is waiting on the finishing touches of the new background to be completed by my graphic artist working on it.
I'm going to use a Japanese Temple in the background and put some of other elements in as well I'll post a preview once I get the layout completed.. but in the mean time I'm holding off on tear down until the new cell print is completed ( I seem to enjoy this Pachi very much so I continue to play it while in waiting..)

I'm starting to think this is my favorite Machine on hand..

[Phulkrum]

it's bummer about the damage caused by the tumbler.. thus far, I've taken to using Blue coral Headlight lens restorer and hand polishing. it's time consuming but isn't that half the fun?

[Phulkrum]

I think you're close to your estimation of manufacture date. If there is a date it will look something like this : 8.50 which means August of 1975. Just add 25 to the number which will be in the high forties to mid fifties. Although for your machine I'd think it won't be any higher than very early 50's.
The round thing is likely a slow turning motor that calculates what is owed. Rack up a bunch of points with the machine open and press the payout and see if you can hear it turning. It's an older but reliable method of score calculation.
If there is a coin adjustment it may not be obvious, all it is typically is a small metal or plastic piece that can move up and down a few mm to regulate what size coin comes thru or gets rejected. Your machine has a coin return so there has to be some mechanism to allow for that.
Your machine may not have a switch to set max pay. The vast majority don't but if its there its usually a small slider switch on a circuit board.
The flickering lights are almost definitely caused by corrosion and bad connections in the sockets. There's an insulator in those sockets that over time dries out and can cause problems and is why I prefer the typical arrangeball lights with the silicone sockets and prongs-they just slip on and off. Clean the sockets really well and buy all new bulbs. Actually, you should clean the entire machine and remove all the dirt and grime so it won't cause problems later.

any one have a lamp part number? I'm in need of these same lamps for my 80's modern...

[emmadog]

The lamp you need may look the same but could have very different electrical specs. Get the voltage requirements with multimeter or info could also be printed on the transformer or somewhere on the machine.

[Phulkrum]

The lamp you need may look the same but could have very different electrical specs. Get the voltage requirements with multimeter or info could also be printed on the transformer or somewhere on the machine.

You ain't kiddin'.. my last trip to Marvac electronics was fruitless because of this.. they wanted part numbers :/

[pachiwall]

any one have a lamp part number? I'm in need of these same lamps for my 80's modern...

The bulbs I bought arrived today! They are a #1821.DSCF8297.JPG I got them from Bulb Town, 5515 St. Augustine Rd, Jacksonville, Fla. 32207. They are 28 volt E10 base bulbs. E= screw base, 10 is the size in millimeters. I learned that while searching for bulbs! This is what I ordered: BulbTown is the one-stop shop for your lighting needs! We have a great selection of low-priced colored lights, miniature bulbs, hard-to-find lights more! I got 30 bulbs for $25.49. I saved all working bulbs in the NEW boxes for future burnouts. I should never have to buy another bulb for this machine. But we are never satisfied...are we? Due to the fact that the matrix does not shut off after a set time limit...it will stay lit on your last play as long as the power is on. If turned off, it will light up the matrix to display the last game played. Incandescent bulbs generate heat, and the plastic number grid is thin. I fear that a very real possibility of leaving the game on too long can melt the plastic grid/matrix. I was also looking for E10 LED bulbs...no can find! the best I could come up with was something like this: 2pcs E10 6V 9V 12V 18V 24V Indicator Light Bulb LED BLS | eBay These wouldn't cost much more than the bulbs I got. However at only 24 volt, and Japanese voltage being !00 volt, ours 120 volt...the transformer is probably putting out about 30 volts...i haven't measured yet. This is probably enough to kill the LED's. it shouldn't be too hard to calculate the value of a resistor to splice into the wiring to achieve this. Ideally, an LED bulb that requires NO modification to the machine would be great...can always go back to original. But if it prevents damage to original parts...it could be acceptable to modify. Can't tell much by this pic, but...the wires plug into the circuit board, and have plenty of places in the harness to splice a resistor and shrinktube it.DSCF8290.JPG Voltage drop being minimal...incandescence bulbs should be able to be used without removing the resistors. They would be dimmer...but they would produce less heat as well! The #16 bulb that blinks seems to be a bad solder joint on the circuit board. it is not the only one, because I can wiggle some sockets and make them blink, but they don't blink during play. Of course I looked inside the sockets and checked for corrosion.DSCF8298.JPGThey all looked good! I thinh I will resolder the circuit board tomorrow, the solder joints don't look all that good.DSCF8300.JPGDSCF8302.JPG I discovered the light below the coin slot that says "stop" is a low coin indicator. It currently needs 5 coins to stay off, but the switch can slide up or down to add or reduce the number of coins required to turn it on, or off. Plus I reinstalled my coin tube assembly last night.DSCF8291.JPG Looking better every day!

[pachiwall]

Well I was only thinking of the possibility of converting to LED's for the potential of the off chance that the bulbs MAY be hot enough to melt the plastic matrix. I have now made the decision to learn how to make that happen! The bulbs I bought were the ONLY ones I found that were 28 volt. I don't know what wattage they are, or what is required. I was just concerned that they MAY be too hot. While playing, I noticed a burning wood smell. I opened the door and sniffed. I could not isolate the smell, but I knew what I smelled! When I removed the circuit board to solder the loose sockets...I saw this! DSCF8303.JPG This is a BIG concern! This was not a circumstance where I had left the game set with the lights on for some time after playing it. This happened while I was playing $20 to see how loose it was! already was considering making sure I put a coin in after each play, just to turn the lights off, to keep from overheating the plastic. Now I am concerned about playing it at all! I did go ahead and solder the sockets for better contact.DSCF8305.JPG So far, looks good! Shut off power quickly after testing, because now I don't trust it. Here is what I am thinking of buying: 2pcs White E10 3V 6V 9V 12V LED Bulb for DIY Lionel WLS | eBay Here is a pic, since I know that someday the link will be worthless. Since the highest voltage is 12 volts DC, I will have to calculate the value of the resistor that I will have to solder into the wiring harness. I also have not checked if the sockets are 28 VAC, or 28 VDC. I will look into that after work tomorroe, and ask my questions about my results then!

[emmadog]

good call on being concerned about the plastic melting. i've seen a few machines where that's happened and i never leave a machine on when i'm done playing for that reason. that's also why i have small on/off toggle switches on all my machines to make it easy to kill the power as opposed to unplugging. you may run into an issue of one or more of the LEDs glowing a bit when other LEDs are lit due to residual current in that circuit. it's enough to light the number and so is annoying. incandescents don't pick it up but LEDs are much more sensitive. a couple of my arrangeballs exhibited that and on the LEDs I had professionally made (to fit the typical two prong connector), they had a diode in each one. this may be to handle that small current but I'm not sure.

[emmadog]

forgot to mention a couple things-one is i tried adding larger resistors to the circuit when i was faced with the LED ghosting but that didn't work. the other thing is that your LEDs look like the normal cool white color these throw off which has a blue cast to it. i'd go with warm white ones and it will look just like factory but be brighter.