Wiring a vintage machine, no idea what to do

[Mrtoad]

Hello,

I have put my restoration on hold so I can do one as a Christmas gift for my nephew. I am working on a Okumura Yuki and the person who I bought it from removed the electrical and actually cut it from one of the connectors. I don't even know if everything is here. I have taken pics of what is here. If not all here and I wanted to wire it with new, is that expensive and what would I need to get? I could give it to him with no lights but thought the lights would be nice.

thanks for any help or advice,
Mike

[Moparformances]

the first pic show the low ball micro switch and the light cluster..

the secon pic shows the orginal plug in point for parlor use.. (if it were mine i would not bother with the plug)

what you need is a second micro switch or a leif switch.. then you can make your own..

think of it like a loop start at your power source and run one wire to your switch.. then from your switch to your bulb, then back to your power source..

lief switches are easy there easy to see open or closed.. the micro switch will need some testing... start with the center and lower post.. see if that makes the switch open or closed..

simple testing with a 9 volt battiery and theres no real risk of geting hurt or hurting the parts you have...

post a pic of the whole back so we can see if the other lief or micro switch is still there...

edit-----------------------------------------------------

there is a lief switch in your bulb cluster??? please post a pic with the light cluster re-installed...

[Mrtoad]

the first pic show the low ball micro switch and the light cluster..

the secon pic shows the orginal plug in point for parlor use.. (if it were mine i would not bother with the plug)

what you need is a second micro switch or a leif switch.. then you can make your own..

think of it like a loop start at your power source and run one wire to your switch.. then from your switch to your bulb, then back to your power source..

lief switches are easy there easy to see open or closed.. the micro switch will need some testing... start with the center and lower post.. see if that makes the switch open or closed..

simple testing with a 9 volt battiery and theres no real risk of geting hurt or hurting the parts you have...

post a pic of the whole back so we can see if the other lief or micro switch is still there...

edit-----------------------------------------------------

there is a lief switch in your bulb cluster??? please post a pic with the light cluster re-installed...

thanks for the reply! yes there are two switches it looks like but i know nothing about them or where they were originally located. When I got the machine, the bulb cluster, wiring and switches were already removed and in zip lock. I am in the process of cleaning the parts from the back. I got the top half done last night and hoping tonight to do the bottom half. Once I have it all done and together I will post pics.

Thanks again!

[CarlW]

Okumura-Yuki FISH Back.jpg

Back of your machine look like this one?

It looks like you have all the parts there? The plug is in the socket for the main hook up with the wires cut off?

[CarlW]

Post 1, picture 6 of 8, of this thread http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...yuki-fish.html

has a picture of the switches & wiring installed.

A lot of Sankyo's have the male plug that fits your machine's female plug. I think everyone has a spare male plug that will fit yours? White rectangular, 2 x 2 position with two rounded corners...

[mxfaiman]

I had made a franken-pachi out of an okumarayuki machine. I converted it to run off of LEDs and made some other modifications to it. I made it have 2 amber LEDs light for jackpot and one red LED light for ball out (you can tell the difference when lit) then I put a green one in the center feature and to the right (because I had room).

029.jpg030g.jpg035g.jpg036.jpg037g.jpg018g.jpg021.jpg41.jpg033g.jpg

[mxfaiman]

Forgot to add here is the original wiring diagram. I found it on someone else's machine. (yes it was stuck on the machine.)

[Moparformances]

Post 1, picture 6 of 8, of this thread http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/vint...yuki-fish.html

has a picture of the switches & wiring installed.

A lot of Sankyo's have the male plug that fits your machine's female plug. I think everyone has a spare male plug that will fit yours? White rectangular, 2 x 2 position with two rounded corners...

if im looking at that right???

when the ball falls one the jackpot arm it lowers.. the right side rises.. something on the right side hits the wire (in your picture #6) and the wire makes contact with the lief switch triping the lights??

I dont think i have ever seen a jackpot light actavated in that manor before?? sure keeps the wire required very low...

[Moparformances]

Hello,

I have put my restoration on hold so I can do one as a Christmas gift for my nephew. I am working on a Okumura Yuki and the person who I bought it from removed the electrical and actually cut it from one of the connectors. I don't even know if everything is here. I have taken pics of what is here. If not all here and I wanted to wire it with new, is that expensive and what would I need to get? I could give it to him with no lights but thought the lights would be nice.

thanks for any help or advice,
Mike

so if i see this right in my head..

the lights and circuit board from your first picture (in post #1) would be instaled into the plastic part one your second picture (also post #1).. then that part is attached to the upper right corner of your machine.. (upper right looking at it from the back)

apply power to 2 of the cut wires and test.. if no work then pick another combination of wires (try the white and red..) the white is one of the two for sure

[Mrtoad]

Thank you all for the replies. To answer Carl's question, yes that is what my back looks like. It even has the sticker Max mentions but I sadly don't know how to read the diagram.

So if I put the bulb cluster leaf switch end in there, what trips it? Also the cut off plug if I don't need it, what did it originally do?

Do I need any sort of a fuse or just run it from the 9 volt battery?

I really know nothing about how the electrical components. Mine growing up did not have it hooked up.

I am going to see if I can test the switches and bulbs to see if they work. I am not going to get the machine itself back together for a couple of days. I am waiting on the Mylar to cover the playfield to arrive. I need to get outside to sand the playfield down but unfortunately the last 3 days have been snow and ice. Friday is supposed to be a clear and balmy 27 degrees, that might have to be the day...

[Moparformances]

So if I put the bulb cluster leaf switch end in there, what trips it?

if you look at the picture carlW posted in the other thread there is a paper clip diameter wire.. probably 8 inches or so long.. it is located below where the light cluster is mounted.. during a jackpot cycle that wire is pushed up to the lief switch in your cluster..

Also the cut off plug if I don't need it, what did it originally do?

i would not worry about the plug.. just apply power to the wires direct.. i have never seen a male plug that will match and if you had a male plug your still going to have to attache to it.. i would just solder direct to the wires you have

Do I need any sort of a fuse or just run it from the 9 volt battery?

if your running a 9 volt there is no need.. keep in mind that the bulb it's self is a fuse.. if it gets hot it will blow just like a fuse..

I am going to see if I can test the switches and bulbs to see if they work.

for testing you dont even need to install anything.. the whole system is self contained.. just apply power to the right wires and you will be golden...

[Mrtoad]

if you look at the picture carlW posted in the other thread there is a paper clip diameter wire.. probably 8 inches or so long.. it is located below where the light cluster is mounted.. during a jackpot cycle that wire is pushed up to the lief switch in your cluster..


i would not worry about the plug.. just apply power to the wires direct.. i have never seen a male plug that will match and if you had a male plug your still going to have to attache to it.. i would just solder direct to the wires you have


if your running a 9 volt there is no need.. keep in mind that the bulb it's self is a fuse.. if it gets hot it will blow just like a fuse..



for testing you dont even need to install anything.. the whole system is self contained.. just apply power to the right wires and you will be golden...

thanks very era much for the info. I got it now on how the switch works, I could not figure out what could trip it.

Ok on the plug and fuse. I will just do direct connection. The wires were snipped short, so need to add some. What gauge wire would I need?

i did test it last night and it was green and another wire but right now drawing a blank. It was either the red or the black, to the white. What are the other 2 wires for? And if not going to be used, do I just just tape them?

For mounting the battery, do they sell a device for me to snap it into?

Thx!

[Mrtoad]

Could I also use this rather than a battery and cut the end and solder the wires to the wires for the machine?

thx!

Amazon.com: Wall Adapter Power Supply - 9V DC 650mA: Electronics

[mxfaiman]

Could I also use this rather than a battery and cut the end and solder the wires to the wires for the machine?

thx!

Amazon.com: Wall Adapter Power Supply - 9V DC 650mA: Electronics

Yep. Wall warts work great. I usually end up getting them at the goodwill for about a buck each. (buy a whole bunch because a few might not put out the right voltage.)

[Moparformances]

Yep. Wall warts work great. I usually end up getting them at the goodwill for about a buck each. (buy a whole bunch because a few might not put out the right voltage.)

every wall wart i have seen has the output voltage listed.. i usually look for 12 volt ones but i will take a 9 volt as well.. take a look at them there marked.. if there not maked then i would pass cause they do make them up to at least 24 volts..

[mxfaiman]

every wall wart i have seen has the output voltage listed.. i usually look for 12 volt ones but i will take a 9 volt as well.. take a look at them there marked.. if there not maked then i would pass cause they do make them up to at least 24 volts..

Yes. But some burn out slightly and put out more or less voltage than what it says it does. Like I have a 12v one that puts out 18v.

[Moparformances]

thanks very era much for the info. I got it now on how the switch works, I could not figure out what could trip it.

Ok on the plug and fuse. I will just do direct connection. The wires were snipped short, so need to add some. What gauge wire would I need?

i did test it last night and it was green and another wire but right now drawing a blank. It was either the red or the black, to the white. What are the other 2 wires for? And if not going to be used, do I just just tape them?

For mounting the battery, do they sell a device for me to snap it into?

Thx!

jsut get some wire that is close to the same size or a bit biger.. the voltage is so small that smaller would work but the rule is never go smaller..

yes the make a clip that will hold a 9 volt

try these
New 2X 9 Volt 9V Battery Holder Mount Mounting Clip Keystone Electronics | eBay

as for the extra wires.. meke sure ya got power to the right two and just clip them off so no extra wire is showing.. if you use shrink tube to cover your solder like i do you could put a little hunk on the ends for a cover..

[CarlW]

Can I beat the horse too?

I understand that the light bulb is also a fuse. But what if the power wire and the ground come into contact somehow? With a battery no big deal, the battery gets really hot for a while then goes dead. With a wall power supply; its a good idea to have a fuse.

Radio Shack also has a 9V battery holder, the bulbs (7.5V is close enough for 9V battery; also have 12V bulbs there), the wire (20 to 26 gauge is easy to work with), the fuse holder and the fuses. Then you don't have to wait?

The wall power packs will read higher voltage on a voltmeter with no load connected. I don't doubt Max about 18V for testing purposes; have a bulb lit in your circuit.

This is unrelated topic but on the bottom of your machine there is a wire near the magnet thing. A machine I was working on would not payout very well until I reversed that wire. It looked to me like it was the same both ways; but it was slightly different. It fit both ways.

[Moparformances]

Can I beat the horse too?

I understand that the light bulb is also a fuse. But what if the power wire and the ground come into contact somehow? With a battery no big deal, the battery gets really hot for a while then goes dead. With a wall power supply; its a good idea to have a fuse.

Radio Shack also has a 9V battery holder, the bulbs (7.5V is close enough for 9V battery; also have 12V bulbs there), the wire (20 to 26 gauge is easy to work with), the fuse holder and the fuses. Then you don't have to wait?

The wall power packs will read higher voltage on a voltmeter with no load connected. I don't doubt Max about 18V for testing purposes; have a bulb lit in your circuit.

all good info

This is unrelated topic but on the bottom of your machine there is a wire near the magnet thing. A machine I was working on would not payout very well until I reversed that wire. It looked to me like it was the same both ways; but it was slightly different. It fit both ways.

more info please

[CarlW]

This is the male plug on a Sankyo that fits your machine. I understand you are not going to use it.
Just more trivia for vintage buffs.

White Male Plug SANKYO.jpg

As you can see in the picture; my preference is to leave the plug there and splice into the wires. My preference really serves no purpose and is not particularly useful on your machine. I just love to go on and on about pachinko wiring.
It's my hobby.