Heiwa single ball...SILVER EDITION !

[pachiwall]

DSCF8028.JPG OOPS! I didn't get a full front shot yet! DSCF8033.JPG No water stains or obvious damage to the cell. Nail heads were somewhat polished...lots of residue left on the shafts. Some streaks here and there on the cell...probably polish and Q-tip cleaning that wasn't finished. Haven't done anything to it yet except unpack it, run a few balls through the pockets to test the jackpots...it works! Then go to work, buy some batteries for the camera, and take these pics! Frankly, I won't have time to work on it anytime soon, when I do...it will take MUCH time, due to all the paint removal.
There are some Japanese characters (kanji?) and numbers above the center feature...possibly some sort of copyright? DSCF8036.JPG I have seen this done to a number of single shots.DSCF8037.JPG Maybe some people don't like to regulate the power of their shots so that they don't go all the way around? Makes no sense to me! I will carefully bend it back into shape. You can see the irregular shape of the bends, so it is clearly NOT original. I haven't fired a shot...so I don't know how violently it hits the rail yet. You can also see that it is missing 3 nails.DSCF8039.JPG I put my finger over the flash because it overexposed at close range. This part was painted HOT PINK.DSCF8040.JPG Not sure how I am gonna treat that spot when I clean it up. Can't use the word "restore" because my work isn't up to snuff for that word, and several other reasons that I'll disclose when we look at the back! You can also see that an emblem of some sort is missing from the same area.DSCF8043.JPG The cup catches undershot balls and sends them to the lower tray through a spring...which I didn't take a good pic of...yet. Original...or modified??? I can't tell!DSCF8042.JPG Has a full size door frame, with a piece of wood filling the lower portion, covered with a chrome plated sheet of heavy gauge metal.DSCF8047.JPG The metal is screwed onto the wood. The ball insert guide don't look home made. Not sure what to make of this one! Kind of why I bought it...wanted to study it and see if it was factory. If so...I consider it a prize, due to its unusual nature and (I hate to use the abused word!) rarity. Either way...if modified, it wasn't a total hack job!

[pachiwall]

DSCF8045.JPG There is some fairly heavy rust pitting above the ball entry...so it has been in use this way (possibly in a parlor environment) for some time. If a modification...not a recent one. (when has rust and pitting ever been a GOOD thing?) So...possibly factory??? Some harsh abrasive has been used to reduce the rust...so there are scratches in the chrome. The ball moves sideways about 1/4" to land on the shooter.DSCF8041.JPG I am sure the nail is an "add on", but I think the chute is a bit more than the average "butcher" would fabricate! What do you guys think? I am pretty thick skinned...tell me how you really feel, do you think it came from the factory this way, or did someone modify it with the wood and chromed steel?
NOW ON TO THE BACK ! DSCF8048.JPG Top 2/3rd. DSCF8049.JPG Middle 2/3rd. And, for some reason...I didn't take a pic of the bottom 2/3rd! But here is a top view of the METAL lower tray!DSCF8050.JPG Even the curved part from the drain is metal!DSCF8052.JPG Not sure what year they went to plastic...but this means (to me at least) OLDER than most of my single ball machines. Or could be that Heiwa was a higher quality brand, and used metal longer. But who is going to argue against METAL? DSCF8054.JPG Seesaw up...DSCF8057.JPGSeesaw down. I think the metal tab is bent to the left too far. The seesaw may be brass...but too much paint to tell!

[pachiwall]

And some more pics of the back! DSCF8060.JPG Green, yellow, and red plastic on the back side! This was once a BEAUTIFUL machine on the back side! DSCF8061.JPGMore red and yellow.DSCF8062.JPG Here is an area of red that also shows where plastic was removed to gain access to a tamper resistant (anti cheat) area of the jackpot mechanism. A shame! Because it keeps "restoration" unobtainable! Another "modification"DSCF8059.JPG Plastic cut open to allow balls to be added to induce a jackpot from the rear to allow jackpots from the rear, without opening the glass, and reaching arount the front! I will eventually add a piece of Plexiglass epoxied on top.\, to keep dust and debris out...but will never look "correct" no matter how good I make it! Notice the rough edges, where it was cut!DSCF8063.JPG A view of the bottom of the metal lower tray, and the linkages below it. Some look bent out of shape...but, I haven't studied it too much.DSCF8065.JPG The jackpot tray MAY be brass, but I can't tell yet.DSCF8066.JPG I believe the lower track is steel, due to the rust tracks, or could have been rusty balls. Won't know until the silver paint is removed!
Overall...I like it! Except for the paint...and the HACK modifications! I don't think the seller did this...these things were probably done a long time ago! I emailed the seller before winning it...he seems to know something about pachinkos...he did know that it worked, and stated that it came with no balls. So, he has enough balls to test it...and knows how to test it. I asked if he ever been to pachitalk before...he said yes...but not much time. I don't think he is a member, and hope he wasn't put off by the comments on his machine. He did do an exceptional job of packing it in an oversized box with LOTS of bubble wrap. NO damage in shipping! It even has GLASS installed in the door...and the glass was NOT broken! This rarely happens! At least not for me! I gave 5 stars for an eBayer because he did everything right for a transaction from eBay! The issues I have were likeky beyond his control!

[mxfaiman]

Nice find there Pachiwall. That is a very interesting Heiwa Single Shot. The front panel does look to be factory original. As the pitting in it matches that on the frame also the wood they used looks to be the japanese oak which is the same wood that is used for the frame.

Truthfully some of the parts on the back look pretty good in silver. It is just that everything was done wrong and that you normally take things off to paint them, not leave them in place like someone did. I'd say take everything off let them soak in some simple green and water and see how much paint you can scrub off. If paint isn't coming off some parts I'd say go to the store and try to find a can of paint that matches.

[browne92]

I don't know if you've seen the thread I started on the subject, but if you can find someone locally that does glass bead blasting, you could sure save yourself some time and elbow grease getting the metal parts clean. I'd be glad to do it for you, but there'd be the added expense of shipping. Not sure how it would do on the plastic bits. I may have to give that a try some time.

There is another post labeled "Mystery Machine" where I have pics of my Heiwa single ball conversion. Has the same center feature.

Best of luck to you. Looks like you have your work cut out for you.

[Moparformances]

something out of the box... i used to rets a house from an old school body and fender guy... he was commisioned to remove a mural from the hood of a van.. (actualy he was paid to repait the hood) he used easy off oven clean.. it striped the mural off with verry very little effort and left the factory paint near perfect.. a simple buff then the custommer was thrilled..

im not sure how easy off would react to plastic??? but it might be worth a try...

enter a GIANT DISCLAIMER HEAR.. not responsable

[pachiwall]

I don't know if you've seen the thread I started on the subject, but if you can find someone locally that does glass bead blasting, you could sure save yourself some time and elbow grease getting the metal parts clean. I'd be glad to do it for you, but there'd be the added expense of shipping. Not sure how it would do on the plastic bits. I may have to give that a try some time.

There is another post labeled "Mystery Machine" where I have pics of my Heiwa single ball conversion. Has the same center feature.

Best of luck to you. Looks like you have your work cut out for you.

Bead blasting is probably a good idea! At least for the metal parts. I have a 5 gallon bucket of glass beads...expensive stuff! However my pressure pot is probably too strong.DSCF7890.JPG I have a small gun like, devige that works much like a siphon feed, but has a hopper on top. Would be great if I had a cabinet...but then I would need a place to use/store it!
For the plastic parts, I'll probably soak them in Simple Green as Max suggested. Then polish them with plastic polish. That should do the trick.
Your Mystery Machine is SWEET! Mystery Machine Love those single ball conversions!

[browne92]

However my pressure pot is probably too strong.

I think if you back off on the pressure, you'll be fine. Down to about 50 psi should do it. And a temporary blast cabinet can be constructed from cardboard and clear plastic...seems like I did some blasting in a big clear garbage bag once. But yea, the stuff is pretty spendy...you don't want to be wasting it.

I know how much you like single ball conversions. If you come across a recycler in about the same condition, I wouldn't mind trading.

[ballsofsteel]

I've seen DOT 3 automotive brake fluid recommended for stripping paint off plastic... Another one of those treatments where you would want to test an inconspicuous place first.

[Moparformances]

I've seen DOT 3 automotive brake fluid recommended for stripping paint off plastic... Another one of those treatments where you would want to test an inconspicuous place first.

brake fluid and atf are two damn nasty products when it comes to paint..

[pachiwall]

I think if you back off on the pressure, you'll be fine. Down to about 50 psi should do it. And a temporary blast cabinet can be constructed from cardboard and clear plastic...seems like I did some blasting in a big clear garbage bag once. But yea, the stuff is pretty spendy...you don't want to be wasting it.

I know how much you like single ball conversions. If you come across a recycler in about the same condition, I wouldn't mind trading.

I have a number of recyclers...most of them I don't want to part with for one reason or another. I do however have 2 similar single ball conversions that are recyclers. Another single ball conversion! I can't find the thread on the green one, but the clear one's thread includes pics of both with their similarities and differences. I didn't need 2 that similar...but I couldn't resist another single ball conversion. The green one was 1st and had a badly broken tray. I repaired it...but went overboard on reinforcing it, unnecessarily.008.jpg007.jpg009.jpg I lined the edges with 12ga copper wire, and buried it in epoxy, sanded smooth and polished. The clear one had a clean break on the rear lower tray. After learning how strong the plastic epoxy I am using is, I trusted it without the copper wire. It looks much better, and is on the back.SBC2 004.jpgSBC2 005.jpgSbc3 012.jpgSbc3 013.jpg Green has been disassembled and cleaned thoroughly, and is more common. Clear has simply been tested and repaired, seems less common. Green has the more desirable green/orange top tulip that opens "left, right, both, then closed". Clear has ordinary tulips, but 2 extra pockets in the middle of the play field. I could part with either one. I like them both for different reasons, but don't really need 2 so similar. Thought it was important to disclose the broken tray issues, and repairs that were made. If interested, PM me.

[pachiwall]

Couple more pics!DSCF8075.JPGAs mentioned before, the lost ball ramp to the lower tray is metal.DSCF8076.JPG sheet metal tabs bent over the tray to hold it together. I removed a couple of easy parts to see how tough the paint is. I so far have tried Castrol Super Clean, because it once stripped chrome off of plastic! DSCF8083.JPGDSCF8085.JPGDSCF8086.JPG The results are not due to the cleaner as much as to the paint sprayed over dirt! The green part has 4 aluminum rivets holding it together. Actual solid rivets smashed to a mushroom head! Not the modern POP rivets. I decided to leave it alone for that reason...I can clean the inside good enough. The staples are HUGE I included a pachinko ball for scale next to one that came out whole. Most of them broke. The yellow and red tracks were sanded and lightly polished, still more work to do to them.DSCF8087.JPG The yellow track was glued together with crud and paint over spray inside. I was able to separate the parts without breaking anything except the tip of my Schrade Old Timer knife.
Then disaster strikes! I was using a buffing wheel to ploish the brass jackpot seesaw. Bad enough the heat melted the solder holding the tiny bridge across the two rows...and the wheel tossed the tiny piece of brass WHO KNOWS WHERE! I was careful not to buff to long to unsolder the pivot tube...I should have stopped 2 seconds sooner! Just as I was ready to consider the power buffing done, the wheel grabs the piece and throws it straight down onto the cement! It bent and twisted it BAD! DSCF8092.JPG Notice the top part of the pic tilted to the right, and the bottom tilted to the right.DSCF8089.JPGDSCF8090.JPG Even the thick brass leg at the bottom is bent out of square! Balls don't fit inside, much less roll freely! I have tried to straighten it. It is starting to take shape, but like black paint on a car, the highly polished brass shows every tweak and flaw! Not to mention the tool marks, No matter how you try to protect it. It will NEVER be right. If I can straighten it out enough to function, it will look abused...which it has been. The thick brass will be extremely difficult to straighten, without unsoldering it. If I try that, I risk the whole thing coming unsoldered. Will probably never find a Brass one to replace it with, and I gave away my clear plastic spare.
Well, talking about it has lowered my blood pressure. Time to try to straighten it some more.

[pachiwall]

DSCF8095.JPG100 grit sandpaper. Lots of scratches...and can't reach into the corners. Have to sand with finer grits on the FLAT surfaces then polish. However, the ridges, and the capitol H create a problem! may have to bead blast this part. Rained all day...prevented that option! DSCF8097.JPG een soaking this part in brake fluid for HOURS! Scrubbed with a brass wire brush. Soaking again.Car paint must be more delicate than spray paint! And spray paint NEVER sticks when you want it to!
I got the brass seesaw to shape where balls will flow through...but haven't assembled to test yet!

[pachiwall]

Car paint must be more delicate than spray paint! And spray paint NEVER sticks when you want it to!

That is why I painted my truck with RUST-OLEUM!DSCF8098.JPG

[pachiwall]

DSCF8099.JPG WOW! How incredibly time consuming! I never watch TV...but I just let Hulu select shows for HOURS while I sanded this part. Started with 100 grit, then 220, followed by 400, then polish. Not to mention a sharp pocketknife to work the nooks and crannies.Not quite happy with it yet. most still won't polish smooth enough. Gonna have to work the rough spots more with the sandpaper. Still some paint in some corners. Gonna have to let go at some point. It will never be perfect. The sharp corners of the H and the ridges have been rounded, and there are scratch marks in the H from Knife work and overzealous sanding! But much better than silver!DSCF8103.JPG

[Moparformances]

is the 100 grit really nessasary??? seems like the 220 would be a better place to start??

or possable use / start with 180grit.. in wood working going from 100 to 220 is to big of a jump your killing yourself at the 220 stage

[browne92]

Maybe even 600 grit wet/dry and water. Should remove the paint without tearing up the plastic.

[pachiwall]

is the 100 grit really nessasary??? seems like the 220 would be a better place to start??

or possable use / start with 180grit.. in wood working going from 100 to 220 is to big of a jump your killing yourself at the 220 stage

100 grit was what I could find laying around the house. Had plenty of it, very little 220. It was sprayed on a it heavy in places with some runs, took a bit of sanding...but 1oo cut pretty good. Even runs on the inside of it! The opening that was cut for rear jackpot drops had a huge run and puddle on the bottom!

[Moparformances]

pick up some sand paper that is a grit between 100 and 220.. lighten up a bit on how much/hard ya use the 100 and use a grit in between 100 and 220 you will get better results

[browne92]

There are some paint strippers that might work well for you. There's two on the market, one says it will remove paint, the other says it will remove paint, epoxy, and resin. I use the second one to strip the paint off the race car bodywork, but I have to be careful, it will eat into the fiberglass. I wouldn't recommend it for your application. The other might work for you, but I would definitely test first.

Available in the paint section of your local hardware store/lumber yard.