All expert pachinko fixers...please help!

[jodini]

So I have the typical pachinko machine...nishijin and when the ball hits the lever...it never quite pushes it down hard enough.
Problem with this pachinko machine. - YouTube

So let's get out of the way the obvious...it has plenty of balls in the machines, payout teater is working fine, but this lever just doesn't quite push down hard enough. What do you guys think?

Thanks,
Joe

[p.opus]

I've had that problem before, but I can't seem to remember how to fix it.

[p.opus]

The last time I had that issue, one of the tracks leading to the jackpot supply was blocked. It looked as if the jackpot hopper was full and the outer track had balls all the way down, but the inner track had a blockage and the low jackpot sensor was preventing the jackpot from completing.

You might want to check that both lanes leading up to the jackpot supply are full. just a thought.

[Card Shark]

I would check all the pivot points in the linkage to the arm to see that they clean and move freely.

[Chumsize]

I had a consistent problem like this on a machine... it's gone now, so no pics to help... but the issue was with the levers rubbing on their plastic housings. I removed all unnecessary covers in back (particularly the one on the right - as you look at the back) and then it worked well. The real solution is to clean every part, make sure there's no obstruction, and use a tiny bit of dry lubricant on the pivot points... align bent rods and such. But removing excess baggage works in a pinch. I think that's why so many old machines are missing non-crucial parts.

[jodini]

Hey guys...I really appreciate the help!

I will give that a try. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some type of adjustment like a screw or something. I know on my single shot there is a threaded rod that allows payouts to flow...so I wanted to make sure it wasn't simple like that.


I'll pull off some covers and clean the pivot points and go from there.
Joe

[browne92]

Also, look for where a previous owner hit it with WD-40. It will be easy enough to find. Just look for the wad of dirt stuck to the oil.

[Moparformances]

I would check all the pivot points in the linkage to the arm to see that they clean and move freely.

no lube!!!

clean and polish but keep it dry...

[whitedawg]

I needed something to lubricate the vinyl window slides where my Mom lives as she was having problems opening and closing them. I bought a product called JIG-A-Loo and it worked great on her windows as after I sprayed on it dried with no oily or sticky residue. I haven't tried it on a Pachinko machine yet but I'm thinking it should work just as good. I purchased it at Home Depot here in Canada so it may be available in the U.S. stores as well. Here's their web site:

Jig-A-Loo - an invisible silicone-based lubricant and water-repellent !

0466001_L.jpg

[jodini]

JIG-A-LOO...I just like the name!

[mxfaiman]

I needed something to lubricate the vinyl window slides where my Mom lives as she was having problems opening and closing them. I bought a product called JIG-A-Loo and it worked great on her windows as after I sprayed on it dried with no oily or sticky residue. I haven't tried it on a Pachinko machine yet but I'm thinking it should work just as good. I purchased it at Home Depot here in Canada so it may be available in the U.S. stores as well. Here's their web site:

Jig-A-Loo - an invisible silicone-based lubricant and water-repellent !

0466001_L.jpg

Yep looks like your basic silicon spray.

Silicon spray is the only lubricant I use. It won't attract dirt, and it makes things nice and smooth.

Here is the stuff I use.

MISTY All-Purpose Silicone Spray Lubricant Aerosol Can: Automotive : Walmart.com

(Just note the price is for a case of it. You might be able to pick it up individually for less.)

Stuff works great. Spray a little on, wait a minute and install your part, it will be nice and smooth. I have even used it on the plastic tulips and it doesn't react to it.

[cardwwi]

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, it was the spoon rubbing on the side of the channel, a simple adjustment and it works fine

[ehisforadam]

I would suggest against using silicone lubricants, the vapor from them can actually be attracted to arcs from motors, switches or relays and it forms a layer which insulates the connection. I've seen it in warranty returned automotive parts. It might not be a problem on vintage machines with simple electronics, but I'd avoid using it on modern machines with electronic shooters and on anything with motorized features in general.

[emmadog]

I would suggest against using silicone lubricants, the vapor from them can actually be attracted to arcs from motors, switches or relays and it forms a layer which insulates the connection. I've seen it in warranty returned automotive parts. It might not be a problem on vintage machines with simple electronics, but I'd avoid using it on modern machines with electronic shooters and on anything with motorized features in general.

That's interesting. I do use lube on the ball drop and coin payout linkages and any other spot where its metal on metal. I use spray on dry lube sparingly. The solvent evaporates to leave behind a dry but slick surface.

[CarlW]

Can I throw in two shiny pennies?

If your machine is clean; it should not need lube...

Watched the video... looks like your machine has not been taken apart as I see a staple. My guess is on the right side (looking at it from the back); sometimes there is a cover over the jackpot lever with the "spoon" that is rubbing; or sometimes the jackpot switch is all wacky and holding the same lever back...

If you have not fixed it already, maybe produce yet another video with more parts shown... the close up is good but a longer video with more close ups of differing areas...

[whitedawg]

I would suggest against using silicone lubricants, the vapor from them can actually be attracted to arcs from motors, switches or relays and it forms a layer which insulates the connection. I've seen it in warranty returned automotive parts. It might not be a problem on vintage machines with simple electronics, but I'd avoid using it on modern machines with electronic shooters and on anything with motorized features in general.

Any lubricant that will quickly air dry most likely has a flammable item like alcohol as a base. If you use any kind of flammable item while something electrical is running you're asking for trouble and if you spray onto the armature of an electric motor or contacts of a relay, even with no power, you could insulate the contact area causing loss of contact or arcing which could ruin or shorten the life of a motor or relay contacts. I worked on mining equipment, a lot of it being electric drive, and silicone spray was used and recommended by the manufacturer for any linkages or relay pivot points along with a spray contact cleaner, which is also quick drying and flammable, used on the contacts themselves.

On mechanical Pachinko machines there are absolutely no worries using spray silicone lubricants and it will put a nice slick coating on a shaft or pivot point after it's been polished up as any moving parts rubbing together require some sort of lubrication to prevent wear and get the most frictionless movement possible. On a modern electrical Pachinko machine unplug the unit and lubricate any areas that need it. As with anything else use it sparingly as it doesn't take much to get the job done.

There are no flammable items in silicone spray lubricants after they have dried. A 50 million dollar mining shovel can't be wrong.

[ehisforadam]

Any lubricant that will quickly air dry most likely has a flammable item like alcohol as a base. If you use any kind of flammable item while something electrical is running you're asking for trouble and if you spray onto the armature of an electric motor or contacts of a relay, even with no power, you could insulate the contact area causing loss of contact or arcing which could ruin or shorten the life of a motor or relay contacts. I worked on mining equipment, a lot of it being electric drive, and silicone spray was used and recommended by the manufacturer for any linkages or relay pivot points along with a spray contact cleaner, which is also quick drying and flammable, used on the contacts themselves.

On mechanical Pachinko machines there are absolutely no worries using spray silicone lubricants and it will put a nice slick coating on a shaft or pivot point after it's been polished up as any moving parts rubbing together require some sort of lubrication to prevent wear and get the most frictionless movement possible. On a modern electrical Pachinko machine unplug the unit and lubricate any areas that need it. As with anything else use it sparingly as it doesn't take much to get the job done.

There are no flammable items in silicone spray lubricants after they have dried. A 50 million dollar mining shovel can't be wrong.

Not to get too into this, but the design was obviously made and tested to handle that. We did analysis on motors out of automotive door latches. All the dead parts and those that could work but that needed higher voltage had silicon on the commutator contacts. They stopped using silicone lubricants in assembly plants prior to this based on other experience with the same type of issue. The only thing I figure it's it was car owners and dealerships thinking they needed to lubricate the door latches (you really never need to do this on a modern car no matter what any automotive maintenance site says) and using something high pressure with silicone in it. The bottom line is it's important to stick to lubricants that are used by design in a system or to only lubricate where it's really needed.. Based on that experience I will always recommend against using silicone lubricants around anything with electrical contacts.

[takethecastle57]

I use a simple Non-Toxic polishing cloth ( I don't get a kick-back on metioning it )

Miracle Cloth All Purpose Metal Cleaning Towel : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors