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Thread: Lighting the Cell

  1. #21
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Does anyone know what the "L I N " designations are on the input side of this transformer. I would guess the "N" is for the neutral wire... but I could be wrong. Don't know about the "L & I". I didn't want to hook it up the wrong way and possibly fry it.
    Thanks


  2. #22
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    It doesn't look like a transformer to me, more like a power supply. Are there any other terminals or wires? Or any other markings on the outer case?

    Back to what you are trying to accomplish. You want 12V DC but how many watts or amps do you need? That should be on the LED strip information.

    Probably the easiest thing is a second power supply (wall pack) for your LEDs on same power strip as your machine's power cord.
    Can you estimate the watts or amps?

    Again my guess, L=Line; N=Neutral, I is not an I but an unusual common or ground symbol? I typically stands for current e.g. V=IR
    But there should also be output terminals or wires if this box is a power supply...

  3. #23
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Usually, L is Line, N is Neutral, and the third is ground. But I've never seen "I" used to designate it. To confirm, take a meter and check from I to the case and see if there is continuity.

    Edit - Carl types faster than me.
    pachinkoparts.com - Home Page
    Definition: Racecar-a device that turns money into noise.

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  5. #24
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    I thought it was a 110-220vAC - 12vDC transformer... but I don't know for sure. Is there a difference between a Transformer and Power Supply?
    Thanks


  6. #25
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    That is a power supply. Converts various AC to 12V DC.

    Check ground terminal like browne92 suggested; connect ground if that is what it is. Otherwise don't hook up the 120V AC ground.

    Hook 120V AC Line up to L and 120V AC Neutral (wider prong) to N.

    Hook up LED strip 12V DC + and - to DC terminals. Don't hook up more than 2 meters of LED strip.


    Plug it into the same power strip as your machine power cord.

  7. #26
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    I used a meter and found continuity between the case and "L"... not what I expected.
    So am I to assume "I" is for positive and "N" is neutral?
    Thanks

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  9. #27
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Well I went ahead and connected the positive wire to the "I" and the neutral wire to the "N".
    It worked
    Lights up 4' of LED's just fine.
    Thanks for all the responses and help.

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  11. #28
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Lockhart View Post
    Well I went ahead and connected the positive wire to the "I" and the neutral wire to the "N".
    It worked
    Lights up 4' of LED's just fine.
    Thanks for all the responses and help.
    Can you guess what's next? Pictures please.

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  13. #29
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    OK, I've got pictures.
    This MATURI is my first modern pachinko. I've had it about a month... (I'm shopping around for #2)
    First thing I did was get one of Daverob's dongles for it... I now know what a difference they make.
    I like to play with the room lights dim (the casino atmosphere ) and the cell was pretty dark... so I added LED's between the two pieces of glass. I made a round track for the lights out of some flexible perforated plastic that I had on hand... attached with hot glue. I used "side" shining LED's that point towards the cell... I like the way they turned out.
    I also made a big hopper that I put on top. It easily holds the 3000 balls I've been using in this machine (it could probably hold another 500-1000).
    I painted the frame and hopper black to match the black on the machine. I'm pretty pleased with the way it all turned out.
    This machine is fun to play... (but it's the only modern I've played so far). The music can be pretty monotonous but the fever light show is pretty good. I feel there are probably much nicer machines out there... the search is on .
    I included a picture of "some" of the machines in my casino (well, it's really my garage).

    Just want to say that this is a great forum and I appreciate the help that I've gotten here.
    Thanks

    100_3156(2).jpg100_3131.jpg100_3134.jpg100_3158.jpg100_3132.jpg100_3129.jpg100_3152.jpg

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  15. #30
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Your casino looks GREAT! Can you tell more about the vintage model B? It looks like it has cell lighting as well.

    Hopper looks perfect too.

    Just wondering if the car still fits in the casino?

  16. #31
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Yes, it's a big casino... so the car still fits

    The vintage Nishijin ('74 Three Comics) is my second machine... I completely disassembled and restored it with a new background and veneer.
    My very first machine was a '76 Daiichi that I cleaned up and built an oak cabinet for.
    Both cells, of course, were very dark when the lights were turned down in the casino... so I experimented with putting strip LED's around the inside of the wooden frames. The first try on the Daiichi was with amber lights down the left side and clear lights cross the top that stayed on all the time... and green lights under the bottom section of the metal ball track (area with the clear plastic "fringe") that were connected to the "win" light so they would come on when a ball went in a pocket. It looked much nicer than before and the added "win" lighting was nicer than just the original single light bulb. But, the metal track blocks a lot of the light from reaching the center of the cell... so it didn't work as well as I had hoped.
    Later on I discovered RGB LED's that change colors and flash in different patterns so I put a strip of those all the way around the inside of the frames of both machines and kept the green "win" LED's under the bottom of the metal tracks. All in all, the machines are brighter and a little more exciting than they were in their original state. The color changing/flashing lights turned out to be a distraction so I usually just leave them on a single, medium brightness color that lights up the cell the best.
    When I did all this I didn't want to alter my vintage machines, so these lights were put on semi-permanently without drilling any holes, etc. I could remove them easily and you'd never know they had been there.

    100_2897.jpg100_2901.jpg100_2593.jpg100_2689.jpg

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  18. #32
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell



    Looks like the helo' fits in the casino too...

    Think you deserve an award. It looks very good to me. LEDs do excite me.

  19. #33
    Blind Shooter Greg Lockhart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lighting the Cell

    Thanks (for the award) CarlW. I'm pretty proud of the oak cabinet I built for my Daiichi. It and my Sindbad's Adventure pachislo get to stay in the house (until my wife says they have to go). I'd like have cabinets for my other machines but I really hate working with wood... maybe someday.
    I like (strip) LED's also... they're easy to work with and look really cool.
    The helo is a gyroplane that I started building several years ago (from a kit). I haven't worked on it for awhile... been spending my spare time buying and cleaning up Pachinko and Pachislo machines . Someday I'll finish it and have fun flying it.
    01.jpg

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