New to Pachinko, and this forum, but might make some people mad...

[oauggieo]

Gloss. I love Shinny things.

[TwoMontejoe]

I think you paid a fair price for its age. It is a unique looking machine. I have several of newer 60-70's versions and I have not spent more then $50 on each of them. Most people have no idea what they are worth and start with a crazy price just to see if someone will pay it. I just spent the most I have spent on any machine and I traded him things to get the price to a more reasonable number.

[oauggieo]

Thanks for all the responses. I'm gathering that most people here love the restore process and buy cheep and dirty and then make them into art. I also think my value is based on everything around me. Living in a city things tend to be more expensive. Antique shows in this area seem to price everything about twice what I think they should go for, yet they are able to sell things.

As for progress, Everything is back together, but I am now looking for input. The two white plastic parts on the front are cracked and king of cheep looking. Would I be offending people or this machine if I had a foundry reproduce these in a metal? maybe something to match the ball tray? Not sure if they can, or how expensive, but I just wanted to ask. Also, possibly a brass to match the pins, but then aged?

Any input?

Thank you all! Great forum and I love the input. Can't wait for machine number two.

here is a pic with everything back together:

DSC_4086.jpg

[emmadog]

For that rare machine, I'd definitely leave it as is. If it were one of the millions of 60's and 70's machines all over CL then I'd say go for it and change it however you want.

[Dan in Toronto]

Looking forward to seeing your pictures of the back of the machine.

[mxfaiman]

Thanks for all the responses. I'm gathering that most people here love the restore process and buy cheep and dirty and then make them into art. I also think my value is based on everything around me. Living in a city things tend to be more expensive. Antique shows in this area seem to price everything about twice what I think they should go for, yet they are able to sell things.

As for progress, Everything is back together, but I am now looking for input. The two white plastic parts on the front are cracked and king of cheep looking. Would I be offending people or this machine if I had a foundry reproduce these in a metal? maybe something to match the ball tray? Not sure if they can, or how expensive, but I just wanted to ask. Also, possibly a brass to match the pins, but then aged?

Any input?

Thank you all! Great forum and I love the input. Can't wait for machine number two.

here is a pic with everything back together:

Leave it as is. I thin if you make it metal it would clash. Right now the plastic acts as a color offset it adds some brightness to the rather dark playfield.

[oauggieo]

I will leave it as is. Thank you for your input. I'll post closer pictures tomorrow as I'm not sure what to do with the plastic around the ball drop. Its in 4 pieces (came that way) and flops around when you drop a ball in. I feel if i leave it that way, its going to get worse.

Super glue? Epoxy? How can I get it to be one piece again and have it look fantastic? I feel using either of those will leave a line that is visible or get darker over time.

Any suggestions I will happily try.

Thank you all again for your input. This forum is a fantastic place and I've spent hours trying to educate myself here.

[Moparformances]

I will leave it as is. Thank you for your input. I'll post closer pictures tomorrow as I'm not sure what to do with the plastic around the ball drop. Its in 4 pieces (came that way) and flops around when you drop a ball in. I feel if i leave it that way, its going to get worse.

Super glue? Epoxy? How can I get it to be one piece again and have it look fantastic? I feel using either of those will leave a line that is visible or get darker over time.

Any suggestions I will happily try.

Thank you all again for your input. This forum is a fantastic place and I've spent hours trying to educate myself here.

i have used a 5 min epoxy on any plastic repairs i ahve had to do... work great.. but everything i have done has been out back and or not really visable... of course once your done you can repaint the part..

most parts a hallow on one side.. so filling it up a bit will help and allow you to shape the front smooth

[pachiwall]

I have had great luck with this brand pf plastic epoxyfinally 002.jpgI have done simple repairs to major reconstruction with it.finally 004.jpg These parts were missing pieces that were built up and sanded to shape. I love the natural wood look! I have used boiled linseed oil on 2 machines and they look great!boiled linseed oil 001.jpg Price??? About my limit, I think you did well. 1) it is a '50s machine. 2) It is a Heiwa (I haven't seen any other Heiwa's from the '50s) 3) You like it!

[jodini]

I've worked a lot with glue (building rc airplanes for 20 years) and I would stay away from the super glue on plastic. For one it will cause an unwanted haze on the plastic and two, could eat it away. Epoxy on the other hand will blend well. Also, the longer the epoxy sets, the clearer it normally is. So 5 min epoxy will turn out more yellow than 20 min epoxy (but will also be thinner). Another nice thing with epoxy is it will sand well too.

Super glue is great for those places out of sight and if you have "accelerator", it's like magic. Spray a little and it will crystallize before your very eyes...just don't suck in the fumes!

So in short...epoxy would be my choice too!
Joe

[oauggieo]

Thank you for your suggestions. 20 Min Epoxy it will be with a light sand of any spill over. Next weekends project. This last weekend I built a wall mount for it just to get it off the floor. I think it looks great. And its staying up so far and swings out nicely to refill the balls. More pictures (Including pics of the back) up at my google site. I'm at work, but i'll post them here directly when I get home. : https://plus.google.com/photos/10174...KGprbP69L20wwE

[oauggieo]

Here are the pictures I added to Google. I'll start polishing up the back soon. I promise! I know it looks dirty.

hDSC_4093.jpgDSC_4094.jpgDSC_4095.jpgDSC_4096.jpgDSC_4097.jpgDSC_4098.jpg

[Card Shark]

Looking Good!!!

[Drunkenclam]

Fantastic

[jodini]

O.K...since the thread says so, "I am mad!" Not because you got this great machine though...because you are a better craftsman than I will ever be! That is a great cabinet Sir and you did an excellent job with refinishing the front of that machine! I'm going to send you all my machines and have you refinish the wood for me!

TOP NOTCH!

O.K...I'm not mad anymore. Just jealous!
Joe

[oauggieo]

O.K...since the thread says so, "I am mad!" Not because you got this great machine though...because you are a better craftsman than I will ever be! That is a great cabinet Sir and you did an excellent job with refinishing the front of that machine! I'm going to send you all my machines and have you refinish the wood for me!

TOP NOTCH!

O.K...I'm not mad anymore. Just jealous!
Joe

Thank you for the compliments! I'm having lots of fun with this machine and I think this one is turning out beautiful. I have a few more days before I can finish the plastic on this one before my next machine arrives (I'll call them my twins for now, but more to come on that later). I think the back of this machine will be a work over time to polish it up. Sorry Dan. Its working well right now, and I'm scared to start removing the back to polish it up. Soon though.

As for the finish, sanding starting with a 60 grit and working in steps all the way to a 320 or higher will get you great results. Then multiple coats of your choice of finish, with lots of time between them, will get outstanding results.

The cabinet was super simple. 4 pieces of wood cut to the height of the machine,(+ add the thickness of the lumber you are using) and 6 the width of the machine. I'm luckey to have a place that will cut them for me with a 1/8th inch margin for $1 per cut. I send them my measurements, the wood I want and within a couple of hours, wa - la! Then pre-drill and screw the two "Frames" together. Pre-drilling is really important so nothing splits on you. On the frame attached to the wall, I use the two extra pieces (width) as braces on the top and bottom. I then picked up a piano hinge at Home depot (30"), a latch and finally a french cleat as I thought It would help hang it easier and holds up to 200 lbs. I figured with the machine swung open, the leverage might add some extra weight. The french cleat was attached to the top brace (I recessed the brace about 1/4 of an inch, so the frame wound be flush to the wall). Honestly, If my drill didn't give out on me multiple times, I would have had it built within a few hours. I have a crappy drill. It might be time to invest in something better.

Here is a quick and dirty of what I did. as long as you hit two studs with the cleat, no issues at all hanging it. Ask any questions if anything is confusing. Its an easy project.

frame.jpg

[jodini]

Thanks man! I'll study this and try to duplicate!