Extracting a Modern pachinko from a computer-controlled cabinet Computer Pachi

[candyflip]

I'll take a look at the pics after I get home from work. But you can remove the cel from the frame and remove the bottom circuit board. That's normally held in place by a couple of tabs and just slides out.

Done.

I made a new video as well, as the only one I could find was for the SANKYO Lumina frames that Dr.Crippen made about 7 years ago on YouTube,
and this BISTY frame differs slightly.

In the meantime, here's the closeup of the bottom controller stripped back until I could find the solenoid, and the 2/3 wires from it.

That's them in the shots - cut clean through. No wonder there's no power down there!

[Drunkenclam]

On my ice age cel. The power for the solenoid was rerouted to the auto play unit. And back to the trap door ball sensor. I guess during fever. The auto play would quickly pulse the ball sensor everytime the trap door opened.

If the dead aggressor has had the same cut job done. It might explain your error message. Wires might be shorting out.

[candyflip]

Yes, I might look at the Dead Agressor later.

First things first - can I do anything about this Evangelion cut wires do you think?

[Drunkenclam]

Assuming that Sankyo used the same colour wires and connecters as standard, The solenoid wires are yellow and black going to a pink plug (I think- See picture plug CN5) The white and black are to the ball sensor which goes to a brown plug (CN1). Don't pay any attention to the CN numbers as this is a stripped down densha de go cel. Oh the other yellow and black is the tulip solenoid. and the other white and black are the other ball sesnors, execpt the start pocket ones (these are yellow and green )

I can't see the board these plugged into. Is it under the bottom piece of plastic?
I think your going to have to remove it to find the board underneath. Track where all the other white and black pairs go to. Its probably there. I'm assuming that the old computer add on needs the impulse from the cel like my auto play unit did. Finding where they are on the cel and reconnect them should do the trick. And lose or insulate the spare tails,. They carry voltage. only low but enough to damge internals if something goes astray.

[candyflip]

Sorry for the break - job hunting.

OK, here's the deal...

eva_spliced-wires-at-back-4.jpgeva_spliced-wires-at-back-3.jpgEVA-spliced-wires-down-back.jpgeva_spliced wires at back 2.jpg


How's that?

[Chumsize]

The splices might have cut the original wires too much... And have since disconnected. I'd just remove the whole splice from the offending pair and connect the original wires back together - no taps.

[candyflip]

The splices might have cut the original wires too much... And have since disconnected. I'd just remove the whole splice from the offending pair and connect the original wires back together - no taps.

No comprendez... what's a 'tap'?

[Chumsize]

Sorry... The cut off wire / the wire "tapped" into the original. Guess I coulda just said "splice" again.

[jodini]

Cool project!

[Drunkenclam]

Or in other words, The original yellow and black wires from the solenoid need to be reconnected with the yellow and black from the plug in CN5 with no spare tails hanging off. If it were me I'd resolder them together and cover with heat shrink tubing, It depends on their length and your soldering ability. But thats the best way to do it, Rather than having chunky connectors sticking out.

[candyflip]

I can't solder for ****, and don't want to learn.

Can I just twist them together and cover in a good wad of electric tape?

[Drunkenclam]

You could do that. Or see if your local motor accessory shop or electronic/model shop has something for joining cables. Model shops sometimes have the connectors for RC models for the motors or batteries. But worst case. Twist them together and make sure they are secured.

[MrGneiss]

We used to sell stuff at the hobby shop that was like shrink tubing but with some solder stuff in it so when you heated it up it would shrink and solder it together..

[candyflip]

Did my dodgy fix up job with twisted wires and electrical tape..

Now waiting for a Fever sequence.

Not holding my breath... this thing takes ages...

Plus I reattached two wires on the very bottom pink plug - I think this might have enabled the 'out of balls sensor' that was previously out.. because now I have flashing top lights at front,when the top tray behind is out of balls. Can always un-attach that I suppose.

EVA wires taped 3.jpg
EVA wires taped 2.jpg
EVA wires taped 1.jpg

[candyflip]

Ahh, that's fixed it.

FEVER got - gate open. 15 rounds completed with opens and closes.


Evangelion gate open and lit.jpg

Noice... God, that's sexy...

Off to eBay with ya!! One more out of the way.

THANK YOU... but this ain't over

Stay tuned for the Resurrection of DEAD AGGRESSOR!!!

[Moparformances]

I can't solder for ****, and don't want to learn.

Can I just twist them together and cover in a good wad of electric tape?

i know how ya feel... then i got a good iron and now soldering wires together is supper easy... (i cant do boards or small stuff but i dont have to)

get yourself a good iron and then give it a try...

i have one like this and it stays the right temp no over heating and no waiting while ya hold the stupid button for heat..

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station - Amazon.com

then i use this to cover the solder.. better then tape and more professional looking

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Shrink...+shrink+tubing

if ya do allot of repairs this will really step up your game..

[Chumsize]

Ahh, that's fixed it.

FEVER got - gate open. 15 rounds completed with opens and closes.

yay! Glad you stuck with it!

[Drunkenclam]

Ahh, that's fixed it.

FEVER got - gate open. 15 rounds completed with opens and closes.


Evangelion gate open and lit.jpg

Noice... God, that's sexy...

Off to eBay with ya!! One more out of the way.

THANK YOU... but this ain't over

I hate to be a party pooper. Did you check the ball sensor in the trap door works too? And it payouts if a ball goes in the trap door?

As for Dead Aggressor, although I think your Japanese is better than mine The error message is something like - Incorrect entry error. According to my kanji dictionary the first 3 kanji are Not, Correct, Entry. Can't make out the 4 kanji from the video.
I would start by checking all the ball sensors So the ones in the start pockets, bottom payout pockets, trap doors. just double check the wiring like you did with eva.

[candyflip]

I hate to be a party pooper. Did you check the ball sensor in the trap door works too? And it payouts if a ball goes in the trap door?

The ball sensor probably doesn't work, but that doesn't affect gameplay so is all good.

It does payout correctly each time a ball goes in.

[candyflip]

Oh - and here's a video (YouTube) of one of the Timed reach sequences.



I'll add the cell swap for this frame another day when I can afford the 1.25 gig space through my service provider!