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Thread: SANKYO LED Lights Project

  1. #41
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile Re: NISHIJIN Model B LED Lights Project

    This Model B has almost NO water damage - makes it RARE!

    The two center feature bulbs draw 220 mA each... the 10 LEDs about 80 mA for a TOTAL
    of 520 mA. Too much for a battery... used a 9V, 1A, wall power pack...

    NISHIJIN Model B Eyes Without a Face Playfield Lights ON.jpg NISHIJIN Model B Eyes Without a Face Front.jpg NISHIJIN Model B Eyes Without a Face Back.jpg




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  3. #42
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile MARUTO LED Lights Project

    Left in the incandescent light (appears yellow in picture) for low reward tray.

    Added four green, diffused, LEDs for jackpot lights. Max suggested using colored LEDs when possible! Thanks Max.

    The LEDs are wired in parallel, all through one 75 ohm resistor.

    Runs off a 9V battery but really "shines" hooked up to a 9V, 500mA wall power pack.

    MARUTO Playfield Lights OFF.jpg MARUTO Playfield Lights ON.jpg

    MARUTO Front.jpg MARUTO Back.jpg


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  5. #43
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    Will you stop it! You've got me itchin' to start on my junker double project, and I've promised myself that I won't start anything new until I get at least 3 projects off my list...which currently stands at 22.

    I've done some non-pachinko L.E.D. projects, and yes, they can be difficult to photograph. For some reason, red turns yellow.

    And I see you've come across another design consideration that gets past most people...viewing angle. When I first started my LED work, I was prototyping with LEDs from a traffic light. They only have a 30 degree viewing angle. The ones I use now are 140 degree. Each application is different.

    I like the idea of the sequenced lights, but as I am SO old school, I'd be doing it all in TTL.

    The machines sure look good!

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  7. #44
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile GINZA LED project

    This pachinko machine uses incandescent bulbs with the addition of one, lone, green LED (with a 330 ohm resistor) located near the lock / key and tied into a new jackpot microswitch.

    Attachment 64370

    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  9. #45
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile NISHIJIN Model B LEDs

    This is a fairly common Model B piece outfitted with 5, red, diffused LEDs, in parallel and a 75 ohm resistor on the positive leg. All set up to run off a 9V battery. The LEDs are low reward tray lights. The 2, center, jackpot lights remain incandescent.

    Model B Back.jpg Model B Back Close Up.jpg Model B LEDs OFF.jpg Model B LEDs ON.jpg



    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  11. #46
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile SANKYO with colored LEDS

    Diffused, colored LEDs were used for this project. The blue and green LEDs wanted 3 volts, so those 6 are hooked up to 50 ohm (4 resistors in series); the other LEDs (yellow, orange and red) are 2 volts and those 9 are hooked up to 40 ohms of resistance.

    A 9V power supply was used.

    There are three incandescent bulbs. Two for jackpot (one was installed in a new hole drilled behind the reward tray) and one lone low reward tray bulb.

    SANKYO Derby Gate LED layout board.jpg SANKYO Derby Gate LED with two power leads.jpg SANKYO Derby Gate LED shrink tubed resistors.jpg SANKYO Derby Gate additional jackpot light.jpg
    SANKYO Derby Gate LED front Lights OFF.jpg SANKYO Derby Gate LED front Lights ON.jpg SANKYO Derby Gate LED playfield Lights ON.jpg


    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  13. #47
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile Model A

    Not many Model A's have a location for LEDs.

    All Model A's have a good spot for an incandescent bulb by the jackpot window (the MAX light).

    Here are some pictures:

    This is the back of the jackpot window, this Model A has two green squares, just perfect for green LEDs.
    Used a 330 ohm resistor on the positive lead (green wire) connected to both LEDs in parallel.
    Used a big glob of heavy duty epoxy to hold the LEDs in place.

    Model A Lights LEDs 1.jpg Model A Lights LEDs 2.jpg

    The MAX light !!!
    Model A Lights Back Light Cover Closed.jpg Model A Lights Back Light Cover Open.jpg

    Used an incandescent bulb for the center feature and the MAX light.
    Used a screw in LED for the low reward tray.
    Too much current for a battery; used a 9V 1A wall power pack.

    Model A Lights ON.jpg Model A Back.jpg

    Here is what it looks like with all the lights on.



    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  15. #48
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: Model A

    Looks good. I've been thinking of adding a low reward light to my old single shot conversion.

    Quote Originally Posted by CarlW View Post
    Used a 330 ohm resistor on the positive lead (green wire) connected to both LEDs in parallel.
    The "old school" in me sends me screaming into the night on this one.

    When I got into electronics, LED's were fairly new and I guess their manufacturing process wasn't real consistent, so their break over voltages (the point at where they conduct) varied quite a bit. So if you paralled one LED with a break over of 1.5 volts, and another of 1.9, the 1.9 might be very dim, or not light at all. So each LED had to get it's own resistor.

    I guess the process has improved enough so you can do this with just one resistor, but you still might run into trouble if you mix different types or colors of LED's. Some of the high brightness stuff can break over as high as 3 volts, and since LED color is not decided by the lens, but by the chemical make up of the device, break over voltages can vary.

    You could also put your LED's in series and adjust your resistor accordingly.

    But as long as you're getting results, go with it. Sometimes it's hard for us "old schoolers" to change direction.
    pachinkoparts.com - Home Page
    Definition: Racecar-a device that turns money into noise.

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  17. #49
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    Point well taken. MUCH Better to have LEDs in series!

  18. #50
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile Power Flash Thunderbird LEDs

    This is an ongoing project.
    Trying to put red LEDs behind the two oval pockets that are only on the Thunderbird version of the Power Flash.

    These are slightly more expensive SMD (Surface Mount Device) LEDs.
    After unsuccessfully trying to solder some individual components; this product was used.
    Pre-wired and appropriate resistor built in to the package.
    Color RED - 12V
    Each 5mm square piece has 3 LEDs built into it. What looks like 4 LEDs in the picture is actually 12...

    Little Dot SMD LED Accent Light | Surface Mount (SMD) | Component LEDs | Super Bright LEDs

    Drilled a hole in the plastic solenoid support. Used a file to make a square bottomed opening.
    LEDs are taped on with metal tape, after cleaning the plastic, before re-installing solenoids.


    Thunder_Bird_Power_Flash_LEDs_ON_1.jpgThunder_Bird_Power_Flash_LEDs_ON_2.jpgSolenoid_Back_after_cleaning_2.jpgSolenoid_Front_after_cleaning_TEXT.jpg
    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  20. #51
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: Power Flash Thunderbird LEDs

    Quote Originally Posted by CarlW View Post
    After unsuccessfully trying to solder some individual components; this product was used.
    Pre-wired and appropriate resistor built in to the package.
    I hadn't come across those yet, pretty cool.

    I feel your pain. I've ruined my fair share of surface mount LEDs, and that's trying to solder them down to a board. If you were trying to attach leads to one...oy vey! I'm not saying it's impossible, but that can't be anything but a headache.
    pachinkoparts.com - Home Page
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  22. #52
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile Re: Power Flash Thunderbird LEDs

    Here are some additional pictures.

    The LEDs look overpowering in some pictures but unless your eyes line up directly, the effect is a red glow / flash.

    Just a reminder, the LEDs are 12V DC; don't use the center tap method of wiring without a bridge rectifier...


    Solenoid layer.jpg LED Back.jpg Power Flash Front Lights OFF.jpg
    Power Flash Playfield Lights OFF.jpg Power Flash Playfield Lights ON.jpg Power Flash Center Feature LEDs.jpg
    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  24. #53
    Pachi Puro mxfaiman's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    That came out looking cool.

    Yeah I just put some LEDs in someone's machine and they are bright if you look at them directly. Otherwise they light things up pretty good.

    100 machines and counting...

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  26. #54
    Sandwich Shooter browne92's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    If you want to diffuse the light a bit, take a piece of clear plastic (I used clear report covers) and some medium grit sand paper. Sand one side of the plastic in one direction, the other side perpendicular to the first. Cut out the desired shape and put in front of your LED's.

    Amazing what you can come up with as a kid with no money just starting in electronics.
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  28. #55
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile SANKYO LED Lights Project Mini Mouth

    The Mini Mouth is a little known variant with more WIN pathways than a PF!

    The stock version has a center feature jackpot bulb... Unfortunately, it is covered COMPLETELY by solid colored plastic and is not visible!

    This one was modified with 7 red, diffused, jackpot LEDs. Everything runs off one 9V battery including the incandescent low reward tray bulb.

    Three sets of 2 LEDs in series with a 330 ohm resistor and a single LED with a 330 ohm resistor.

    Made a copy of the plastic piece and used the paper as a template.

    Left Side Paper Template.jpg Right Side Paper Template.jpg

    Drilled 1/4" holes for the LEDs.

    2 LED Front.jpg 5 LED Front.jpg

    Used ribbon cable (rainbow colored) and peeled back a small portion of the plywood to route some of the wires behind the game plastics.

    5 LED Back Resistors TEXT.jpg 5 LED Back.jpg 2 LED Back.jpg SANKYO Mini Mouth Playfield Lights ON.jpg
    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  30. #56
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile SANKYO LED Lights Project Mini Mouth - Part 2


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  32. #57
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile SANKYO LED Lights Project Mini Mouth - Part 3

    PACHINKO - Nishijin Model A, 2005 Newgin Cutie Honey, 2015 TAKAO Queen's Blade 2
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  34. #58
    Kungishi CarlW's Avatar
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    Smile MIZUHO Vintage LED Project

    The "stock" lights on this MIZUHO vintage were missing along with the wiring.

    LEDs? Why not?

    Tied in to a 9V battery.

    Jackpot LEDs - 18 total LEDs - 6 resistors
    Four in series - orange (1.9V) each series with a 75 ohm resistor x 4
    Single green (3.3V) with a 330 ohm resistor x 2


    Low Reward Tray LEDs - 6 total LEDs - 2 resistors
    Four in parallel red (2.2V) with a 100 ohm resistor.
    Two in series red (2.2V) each series with a 330 ohm resistor.

    MIZUHO All lights OFF.jpg MIZUHO Low Reward Tray LEDs.jpg MIZUHO Jackpot LEDs.jpg








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  36. #59
    Pachi Puro Card Shark's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    Looks great. I need to get up the nerve to start trying to add some LEDs to my machines.
    "Life consists not in holding good cards but in playing those you hold well."
    Pachiholic and Proud!!! サメ

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  38. #60
    Kungishi ballsofsteel's Avatar
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    Default Re: SANKYO LED Lights Project

    Some of these look like they have "possibilities"... Flashing LED Kits-Electronic Goldmine
    "Knowledge is good." - Emil Faber

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