SANKYO LED Lights Project

[Hope Chest]

Man, this is a cool thread. I especially love seeing the LEDs in action in those youtube vids. I love how well they integrate with the vintage machines - they don't look tacky or added on, they just enhance them.

I wish I had the skill set to do this kind of stuff! I've a few machines that would look the business with that kind of treatment.

[CarlW]

...but if i had a complaint.. can ya delay the jackpot lights more so they light when the bell rings??? (ya i know Picky Picky)

and

whats in the lower left corner?? can ya put a jackpot bulb in there as well??

either way it looks really nice.. and I'm a purest

Mopar,
Are you sure you'e not upset just because KITT from Knight Rider is a GM product? Don't hide from your feelings...

The switch turns on the lights exactly at the same time as the original lights would have come on. Not sure that sentence makes much sense.

But it doesn't seem like the bell and the lights are coordinated on any vintage machines? Light comes on first as lever moves to release jackpot, jackpot releases and pachinko balls hit bell, jackpot resets and lights go off.

My goal was to use the translucent plastic where it seems like a bulb should be. Again, not a well worded sentence.

Next machine on the work bench is an early modern hanemono and it has plenty of lights and sounds already...

[Moparformances]

Mopar,
Are you sure you'e not upset just because KITT from Knight Rider is a GM product? Don't hide from your feelings...

Really??? KITT was a cool car.. but it would have been faster and cooler if it had a Pentastar on the right front fender...

my true feelings are

Mopar Or No Car...

------------------------------

as for the timing of the lights and bell... your right there always off unless the leif switch is attached to the jackpot seesaw

[CarlW]

KITT Mopar.JPG

[Card Shark]

[Rival]

Man, you guys are just insane with those LED's! I am way too much of a purist to do that myself, but I have to admit they look seriously wicked cool. But I don't know, maybe I might get a wild hair a do up some machine with a few hundred LED's with sequencers and stuff, and then throw in a few piezos to make warbles, whistles and sirens. Make it look and sound like it is going to explode when you hit a jackpot.

I just would not know what to do with it once it was done! Although honestly, thats really what the newer ones are already like. Maybe you guys are hitting the correct balance.

Outstanding work for sure though!

[CarlW]

They could be on all the time and then chase around when you got a jackpot..Maybe a different pattern depending on the pocket..Make it so!!

Got to love how you say "make it so" to TWO different things.


HEIWA is next machine on the work bench. HEIWA LOVED staples!

Here is a video of the standard incandescent lights (NO LEDs) in a similar machine...
HEIWA Vintage Pachinko - YouTube

Next video is bread board of a successful attempt at two lighting sequences:
Low reward tray will flash alternating 8 LEDs around red circle, half on, all on, all off, repeats in one second...
Jackpot tray will flash top to bottom of machine 10 LEDs: Top LED on, Top 2 LEDs on, TOP 3 LEDs, etc. cycles through in one second...
HEIWA Vintage Pachinko SKYLE LED Project - YouTube

Took about an hour to write the code and uh.. maybe more than four hours to ... cough... debug... ahem... meh...

I have to finish cleaning up the Machine before I can post a video of the final project. It is always MUCH better idea
to bread board the circuits before going wild with the solder gun.

Will post the code and the circuit diagram later... PM if you really want it NOW...

[CarlW]

Arduino UNO with shield.jpg LED Array.jpg


Shield is assembled and functioning in the following video.

Low Reward Tray LEDs are mounted in a clear plastic piece to be glued inside the red plastic cover.
Jackpot LEDs will be glued directly to the underside of the plastic cover.

[mxfaiman]

My question is does the switch have to remain depressed for the whole sequence, or does it just need to be depressed once to start it and then the sequence will run for its length and turn off?

Either way it is looking good.

My only suggestion but I understand why you didn't do it, would be to use different color LEDs like red ones in the red lens and green ones in the green lens. That way they would act more like normal light bulbs. Either way I'm sure it would look cool, be sure to keep us posted.

[CarlW]

My question is does the switch have to remain depressed for the whole sequence, or does it just need to be depressed once to start it and then the sequence will run for its length and turn off?

Either way it is looking good.

My only suggestion but I understand why you didn't do it, would be to use different color LEDs like red ones in the red lens and green ones in the green lens. That way they would act more like normal light bulbs. Either way I'm sure it would look cool, be sure to keep us posted.

Jackpot Switch just has to be pressed once to start the sequence. The length of the sequence is determined by a single variable (easily re-programmed). I am going to adjust the jackpot sequence length to be slightly shorter than the machine's time to cycle through and reset. Currently set at one second for entire sequence. Only way to adjust it is trial and error.

Each switch is also slightly different and needs to be adjusted (debounced) although haven't had issues with a 3ms debounce time on any switches to date...

Very astute question about different colored LEDs. No big deal to use different color LEDs. My camcorder gets confused by the LEDs and they look MUCH whiter in videos (and pictures) then in person. The colored lenses look appropriate in person.

Attached some diagrams, the source code, a parts list and other documents in a ZIP folder. There is a print out of the code.
One goal with the code was to make the variables easy to adjust; it only takes about a minute to remove the Arduino and reprogram it.
Another goal was to NOT use any "delay" statements; if the low reward tray switch is activated during a jackpot cycle, it shouldn't have to wait to light up (or vice versa).

See what you think!

HEIWA Arduino LED Project.zip

[CarlW]

Found diffused, colored, LEDs. Next time!

Made a few tweaks to the circuit and the source code... will post later...
Figured out the incandescent lights need a separate power supply, the Arduino
can't source very much current... both circuits run off one wall power pack.
Added an inline fuse and a separate switch to the incandescent center feature bulb circuit.

Project 1.jpg Project 2.jpg Project 3.jpg Project 4.jpg
Project 5.jpg HEIWA SKYLE Vintage Front.jpg HEIWA SKYLE Playfield.jpg HEIWA SKYLE Back.jpg

[Card Shark]

Just keeps getting better and better

[Moparformances]

look great

[mxfaiman]

Looks good as usual.

[CarlW]

On to the next project!

This project was really a response to the request from MrGneiss; was hoping for a little something for the effort... maybe a pachitalk gift or something???

[Card Shark]

Ask and ye shall receive.

[mxfaiman]

Ask and ye shall receive.

posted using Tapatalk

[CarlW]

HEIWA Arduino LED Project V9.zipAttached is the updated wiring diagram, code printout, and source code...

Thanks for the gifts ! I feel blessed...



HEIWA Arduino LED Project V9.zip

[CarlW]

Here is a link to a LED circuit design wizard...

LED series parallel array wizard

Not going to say who... but someone may have neglected using resistors and transformed LEDs into dark emitting diodes.

[CarlW]

Cameras just don't do LEDs justice.

The 5 red LEDs look yellow in the picture but look red in real life.

Will post a few more pictures after it's put back together...

Wanted to use a 9V battery and keep the incandescent, center feature bulbs.

Added 5 yellow jackpot LEDs behind the top piece ( normally has no lights ).

NISHIJIN LEDs 1.jpg NISHIJIN LEDs 2.jpg NISHIJIN LEDs 3.jpg 5 LED Array.jpg