Thinking of adding Handle pulls to my pachislos

[Card Shark]

After a lot of thought, I have decided not to add hand pulls. Just can't bring myself to alter the machines.

Thank you for everyone's input.

[Meathead]

I know it's sacrilegious but I bought one to add to my Spin Luck.

[Card Shark]

I know it's sacrilegious but I bought one to add to my Spin Luck.

I would love to see some pictures and possibly a video of how it turns out.

[new in town]

I know it's sacrilegious but I bought one to add to my Spin Luck.

Bandit-Arm Wiring


Look at the True IGT listing. (not the igt / sammy) Here are you wires to connect to.

[Meathead]

Thanks for the info! I have several points on this arm that allow for electrical connections so I may need to photograph and post it. I am a little disappointed at the condition of rhw unit. The black ball end has heavy scratches, the arm is heavily pitted, and the plastic, chromed "IGT" cover has scratches and missing chrome as well. One thing I willl have to do for the installation is remove a lot of the material from the inside of the case. from what I can tell, I will need only about a quarter inch of thickness to make the installation. The are is too small for my plunge router and I think I may have problems even with my rotozip.

[Card Shark]

Good Luck!! I am looking forward to seeing the install. Would you be able to post pictures showing the steps of the install?

[Meathead]

Good Luck!! I am looking forward to seeing the install. Would you be able to post pictures showing the steps of the install?

I will most certainly do what I can as far as photos, etc are concerned. The project may be extended due to my work obligations and other things going on, but I will keep y'all updated.

[luckydog]

i do remember seeing pictures on slot handle install, not sure if it was here or on the "old way"

[njmatt]

arm1.jpgarm2.jpg

Here are 2 pics from my install. As you can see I flush mounted the mechanicals of the arm inside, and countersunk the the actual pull handle. The way I went about it was to "fit" the mechanicals first, to see where they would fit. Then I drilled out a hole the size of the inner hole for the mechanicals to poke through. Then i placed the outer ring on and traced it. Then I routed out the wood to sink the arm in far enough for it to bolt up. Threw a quick coat of black spray paint. and wired it up.

[pachiwall]

I get it! For some reason, I was thinking it would be routed out on the inside.

[pachiwall]

I am a little disappointed at the condition of rhw unit. The black ball end has heavy scratches, the arm is heavily pitted, and the plastic, chromed "IGT" cover has scratches and missing chrome as well. One thing

I have been considering one myself, can you post some pics of the condition...may help me decide. I understand that for the price, they would have to be "pulloffs" from old IGT machines...not new old stock. However if condition varies wildly...maybe they need a couple of price levels according to condition.

[Meathead]

arm1.jpgarm2.jpg

Here are 2 pics from my install. As you can see I flush mounted the mechanicals of the arm inside, and countersunk the the actual pull handle. The way I went about it was to "fit" the mechanicals first, to see where they would fit. Then I drilled out a hole the size of the inner hole for the mechanicals to poke through. Then i placed the outer ring on and traced it. Then I routed out the wood to sink the arm in far enough for it to bolt up. Threw a quick coat of black spray paint. and wired it up.

Your cabinet appears to be a plywood material, whereas mine appears to be a fiberboard or MDF-type material. This causes me some concern only because I think the plywood is stronger and would be better suited to support the handle when the area is routed out. I also wondered about clearances. I figured if I sunk the handle unit in from the outside rather than the inside, the handle and arm would be too close to the side of the cabinet. Is yours an adequate distance?

I have been considering one myself, can you post some pics of the condition...may help me decide. I understand that for the price, they would have to be "pulloffs" from old IGT machines...not new old stock. However if condition varies wildly...maybe they need a couple of price levels according to condition.

I'll try and get some pics shortly. I am a bit dissappointed but realize the $30 price (to include shipping) was a deal. The flaws are purely cosmetic and can be remedied for the most part. It is clearly a 'pulloff' as it comes complete with nicotine stains.

I get it! For some reason, I was thinking it would be routed out on the inside.

I'm still thinking of thinning out the inside, to hide my work. I need to check the clearances and consider the material the cabinet is made of.

[njmatt]

arm3.jpg

Plenty of clearance. I have seen them mounted both ways (countersunk arms and countersunk mechanics). Countersinking the mechanics usually requires dis assembly of that wall from the machine. Countersinking the arm is much easier.

[njmatt]

someone in another thread posted how he added a "bet switch" to his arm.

Bet button added to slot arm

[Frank A]

I have put at least 12 IGT arms on my machines including Spin Luck and Betty Boop. It makes it a little more interesting with the auto stop added too. Remember to remove the solenoid that keeps the arm from moving. I never did figure out how to power the solenoid so removing it was easier. The hole drilling was easy and the only issue with thickness was having to modify the cover on the handle by using the Dremel tool to grind a new deeper slot for the arm handle hole. Getting the set screw in was a little bit of a challenge, but cutting a hex key to fit made it easier. I think the arms and the auto stop are great mods. Whenever I sold a machine with these features I got an additional $ 75.00 and the buyer liked the arms. Good luck and do what ever you think you will enjoy doing to your machines, just don't even think of converting to quarters.