New to PachiTalk, and finally bought a Pachinko machine. Looking to verify the

[Whtreadaway]

Greetings to everyone on the PachiTalk Forum:

As a kid, my older cousin had a 60's or 70's Pachinko machine that we would play for hours. Really enjoyed visiting and playing the machine.

Over the past 5 years, I've traveled to Japan on several occasions and gone to Pachinko Parlors and played the newer machines. Yes, I'm old fashioned and really like the "old school" machines.

I finally found a machine this week and purchased it, as a restoration project and opportunity to enjoy the fun again. See the attached Photos.

It is a Nishijin Shiroi Kamome, and I believe it to be a 1976 B "Fishing" Model. If someone could assist in verifying the year, I would sincerely appreciate it.

Also, thanks for everyone's inpout in cleaning and restoring. I'm looking forward to this project!

whtreadawayPlayfield.jpgTag.jpgInside_Lower_Left.jpg

[hanabi]

Hello

Welcome to PachiTalk!!

Congratulations - nice looking pachinko!!

I'll let our more 'vintage' peeps assist with the technical stuff on this one, but just wanted to welcome you to the Forums.

[mxfaiman]

You would be correct on the date. Build year of 76. The theme you could call "fishes" however I personally like to call the theme "sakana" which is fish in japanese.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask. And once again welcome to PT.

-Max

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[Whtreadaway]

Sophia.jpgSuperDX.jpg

Thank you, Max!

I also added two more pictures - Front showing SuperDX and Sophia from the back.

So a 1976 Nishijin Shiroi Kamome Sophia Sakana Super DX?

whtreadaway

[mxfaiman]

Thank you, Max!

I also added two more pictures - Front showing SuperDX and Sophia from the back.

So a 1976 Nishijin Shiroi Kamome Sophia Sakana Super DX?

whtreadaway

No problem.

Most of us don't use the term Sophia or Super Dx in the machine description. As almost every model B is a Sophia machine. And even still almost everyone was either a Super DX or a Super Deluxe. So they don't really mean much.

What you have is a 1976 Nishijin Model B (Sakana). I like to put the theme in () to seperate it from the main title as it is kinda just a side note. But that is how I do it you can choose to call it however you like.

[Whtreadaway]

Now for the cleaning!

[mxfaiman]

Don't forget to take many pictures. They help when putting it back together and to show the work you did.

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[cardwwi]

Now for the cleaning!

The best way I found is to buy a box of 1 gal ziplock bags and number them 1 to 40, then when you take a part off you put it in the bag in order that you removed it. Clean each part and then reverse the order for reassemble.

[MrGneiss]

The best way I found is to buy a box of 1 gal ziplock bags and number them 1 to 40, then when you take a part off you put it in the bag in order that you removed it. Clean each part and then reverse the order for reassemble.

Wow, thats a great idea!!

[Whtreadaway]

That's a great idea!

I connected a 9 volt to the electrical today, and one of the bulbs actually worked!

Need to check the continuity across the switches and other bulbs, but happy that it seems ok.

I also purged all of the balls from the machine, then cycled all of the tulips, jackpots and ball return. Everything functioned well, just gummy from the grime (and the inevitable smoke from a Pachinko Parlor).

I noticed that there are two "slides" for glass. Is it common to have two plates, or just one?

[SteveFury]

The parlors in Japan used both slots in the metal playfield frame, glass on the inside and plexi or lexan on the outside. The two sheets provided a space so people wearing magnetic jewelry won't cheat the machine. I think most people use just the inside slot closest to the playfield. Should you use real glass or plexi/lexan? Both have potential benefits and drawbacks. The plexi/lexan is quieter and comparatively unbreakable than glass. I think the glass is more clear and easier to clean and I like the "tick tick tick" which gave Pachinko its name. I guess we just choose what we prefer.

I've put lexan on the outside and glass on the inside as the parlors would have it but I didn't like the look... so it's just glass for mine.

[Moparformances]

Welcome to Pachitalk

if ya need a hand let me know... Im not to far.. (for a Pachitalk member)

[pachiwall]

The parlors in Japan used both slots in the metal playfield frame, glass on the inside and plexi or lexan on the outside. The two sheets provided a space so people wearing magnetic jewelry won't cheat the machine. I think most people use just the inside slot closest to the playfield. Should you use real glass or plexi/lexan? Both have potential benefits and drawbacks. The plexi/lexan is quieter and comparatively unbreakable than glass. I think the glass is more clear and easier to clean and I like the "tick tick tick" which gave Pachinko its name. I guess we just choose what we prefer.

I've put lexan on the outside and glass on the inside as the parlors would have it but I didn't like the look... so it's just glass for mine.

When I get my gameroom right, I will use glass on the inside and Plexi on the outside as they will be in the same room with a pool table!

[Whtreadaway]

OK, folks, I'm getting of the procrastination boat, and finally starting to "think" about cleaning and restoration.

Lots of pictures - check.
Plastic Bags - check.
Refer to Sticky on restoration - check.

I checked continuity on the two win lights, and they both work, however a win doesn't light up the two lights. I'm checking the small win switch tomorrow. Anyone have other suggestions?

[CarlW]

Could be a lot of things... the low reward tray light will go on if the power is connected to the wrong terminals. Most of the time (unless the wiring has been "adjusted") the two terminals close to each other are the ones you want on the Model B.
Check the leaf switch, those contacts need to touch, and sometimes the wires come unsoldered from the leaf.

As long as you can get the low reward tray to light, the fuse is probably not the problem.

You did check the bulbs? Seems like if you have continuity, it's not the bulbs. They are easy enough to check with your 9V. you can just touch the bulb to the battery posts...

[Whtreadaway]

Thanks, Carl.

Yes, 9 volt bulb trick was performed (actually all worked!!!). Fuse is OK. Upper light stays "ON".

I'm thinking that your assessment of the terminals is culprit.

Photos tonight.

Again, much appreciated.

[Hope Chest]

OK, folks, I'm getting of the procrastination boat, and finally starting to "think" about cleaning and restoration.

Lots of pictures - check.
Plastic Bags - check.
Refer to Sticky on restoration - check.

When I'm working with the smaller screws and pieces, I use empty prescription bottles. A lady I work with brings me at least 4 a month from her mother and they're just the best, especially if you have to stop mid-project for any reason and resume at a later date. Between those and copious amounts of pics that I've doctored with MS Paint to indicate where I took things from, I've never had a problem! Good luck!

[Whtreadaway]

Thanks for the bottle idea!

[Whtreadaway]

Hello, all!

Long time since last post, my apologies for that!!!

I've started restoration.

Most of the exterior hardware, front frame, handle, etc is done.

Tons of pictures taken, and all parts in marked bags.

The exterior framework was sanded and cleaned today.

I would like to find a replacement key lock.

ANy suggestions??

[Drunkenclam]

Unless you can find someone scraping a machine. vintage locks and keys do sometimes come up on YJA.