24VDC Powerflash kits

[Rival]

I don't normally hawk my wares on here, but I thought I would throw this up for anyone with a powerflash who has not found an easy electronics solution. I know the market is microscopic, but if it helps a few people it's worth it. I bought 100 of those 24VDC bulbs just to get the bulk discount...LOL!

http://pachinkoplanet.com/zencart/in...products_id=40

24VDC power supply, 2-24VDC bulbs, 2 grommets, 2 fuses. Run it all from just the one wall-wart.

Also, for the guys with the circuit racers or PowerRoulettes and stuff, is this a solution that would work on any of those more exotic machines? I only ask because I have never gotten my fingers on any of them, and I figured it would be more useful if other machines could benefit.

[mxfaiman]

Also, for the guys with the circuit racers or PowerRoulettes and stuff, is this a solution that would work on any of those more exotic machines? I only ask because I have never gotten my fingers on any of them, and I figured it would be more useful if other machines could benefit.

I'm not completely certain. I don't think they'd work on a circuit machine; but I have yet to play with mine to figure that out.

Mopar might have a little more insight on that. (He has worked on 3 or 4 of them. Including mine.)

[Moparformances]

I dont understand why your hooking the two fuses together???

power is provided to the machine at 2 different points.. the 24 volts are fed int to one point and the power for the lights is always hooked up in the traditonal way..

the fuse box is so small it would be scary for me to wana get in there and try and jumper them together... i cant imagine someone that does not know what there doing attempting this

i understand using 24 volt lights but just split the wall wart and provide power to each point as originaly intended..

or get a transformer with a center tap and wire it like i have posted..

(just my two cents)

[Rival]

I don't jumper them in the back. I jumper them in the front, I just slide a piece of wire into the holders so it jumpers them. I don't have any powerflashes in stock at the moment or I would take a pic. It's actually pretty simple. Maybe I don't understand the way you are suggesting, I can be a little dense sometimes.

The fuses are really superfluous anyway for home use. They were only really needed in parlors where dozens were hooked up to a live busbar. You had to separate them electricly somehow.

[Moparformances]

i vid is worth a thousand words

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE9YEssgjIc

[Rival]

I have no problem using transformers and doing a rewiring job, and you clearly know what you are doing as well. I was looking for a solution for people who know almost nothing about soldering or electronics, making it as plug and play as possible. Changing a few bulbs and sticking a few wires into lugs should be something just about anyone can do. I am looking into making little aluminum clips you can slide on to jump the fuses to make the final step a task any owner can accomplish. But for now, a small piece of wire will do the trick just fine, no soldering required.

I could have put a transformer in my standard 12VDC kits as well, but the wall-wart just makes it a snap. I even tin the wire ends before I send them out so they go into the lugs easily. Too bad there is not such an easy solution for the Circuit Racer, although you could still do it by changing the bulbs and using the wall-wart, but you would need to run additional wires and do some soldering, so you might just as well use the transformer.

[owennewton]

I plan on modifying the elex rotary so the ball out circuit can run on 24 volt as well (the win lights are already 24 volt) but for this one it is just hooking the circuit to the power supply I already have and replacing the 2 bulbs (one 10 volt bulb and the one burnt out 24 volt bulb)

[CarlW]

Just my two cents... the 24V set up Rival offers would work on the CircuiT machine and the UFO machine. They both have the "regular model B" style wiring block.

One does have to exercise care though. I have worked on all three (CircuiT, UFO, PowerFlash) and all three had been modified electrically, at some point by others, before I got them.

Do like Mopar's video!

[Moparformances]

was reading one of your other posts and looked at your website again..

when puting power to a power flash are your puting power to the light posts or to the wire that goes into the back of the fuse block??

if your puting 24 volts to the light posts and using the jumper to get power to the solonoids.. it will not work... power to the solonoids has to be DC.. power to the lights does not mater..

[naha13]

My model "C" fishing game is the same way. 24VAC to the lights, and there is a small rectifier board to convert that to DC for the soleinoid.

was reading one of your other posts and looked at your website again..

when puting power to a power flash are your puting power to the light posts or to the wire that goes into the back of the fuse block??

if your puting 24 volts to the light posts and using the jumper to get power to the solonoids.. it will not work... power to the solonoids has to be DC.. power to the lights does not mater..

[Rival]

I know all about the 4 diodes that form the rectifier circuit, but it is superfluous, because the power supply provides 24vdc at a half an amp. Just connect it to the lighting posts and jumper the fuses. It works perfectly. There is no AC being used in the circuit, so the diodes simply pass the 24vdc as if they were not even there. It does not even matter which polarity you use to hook it up.

[Rival]

It is a full-wave bridge rectifier. http://www.play-hookey.com/ac_theory/ps_rectifiers.html where the resistor (load) is replaced by the solenoids.

I was an electonics engineer 20 years ago back when there used to be electronic engineers.

[naha13]

Don't worry, they haven't changed much in the 30+ years I've been in electronics - just fancier voltage regulators and they are mostly throw away modular power packs or slide in modules. Much easier than the old days when we really fixed everything on the workbench.

It is a full-wave bridge rectifier. http://www.play-hookey.com/ac_theory/ps_rectifiers.html where the resistor (load) is replaced by the solenoids.

I was an electonics engineer 20 years ago back when there used to be electronic engineers.