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Thread: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

  1. #21
    Tokie Owens markronz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Ok, I set my multimeter to 200 in the DCV section. I held the probes on the red and black wires on the back of the motor. To simulate a payout, I put my machine into credit mode. Then I added a bunch of coins. With the probes held onto the two wires, I had someone hold down that credit mode button. The hopper then pays out all the credits that are on the machine. The multimeter stayed at 0 the entire time. Which port should the red wire be plugged into on my multimeter? Theres a 10ADC (10A Max) hole, and a VΩmA (750VAC/1000VDC/200mAmax) hole. I tried both of them, and the multimeter still read 0 both ways. I just want to know which hole the red wire should be plugged into for what we're doing here.

    Also, so I guess it's AC powered then, not DC, if it read 0 right? Unless I messed something up? I just held the probes on the outside of the wire casing, which I'm assuming is what I was supposed to do? So what then if it's AC? Is there a way I can confirm that it is AC with the multimeter?

  2. #22
    Tokie Owens markronz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Nevermind about one thing. I've read that I should be using the VΩmA hole, and that the 10A one is rarely used.

  3. #23
    Tokie Owens markronz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Ok, I now also realize that I had to cut the wires to properly test them. I used a wire stripper and I got it so that there was a small amount of the stranded wires showing. The wires are still attached to the hopper as well. I then used some alligator clips to attach to the probes, and the other end on the wires. This made things a lot easier to do by myself. But I put in about 20 credits and then cashed them out. It is DC power. When I have the multimeter set to 200 in DCV as you suggested (my red probe is connected to the VΩmA, not the 10A one) , it measured in at 22.8. Technically it said -22.8. Not sure why it said negative... It doesn't start off at 22.8 initially, but if it's paying out for a few seconds, once the motor is spinning at full speed, it seems to top out at 22.8

    So I guess let me know what to do with that information. I know we were looking for 12 or 20, so I am wondering if 22 is close enough to 20, or what?

  4. #24
    Tokie Owens eddieb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Quote Originally Posted by markronz View Post
    Ok, I now also realize that I had to cut the wires to properly test them. I used a wire stripper and I got it so that there was a small amount of the stranded wires showing. The wires are still attached to the hopper as well. I then used some alligator clips to attach to the probes, and the other end on the wires. This made things a lot easier to do by myself. But I put in about 20 credits and then cashed them out. It is DC power. When I have the multimeter set to 200 in DCV as you suggested (my red probe is connected to the VΩmA, not the 10A one) , it measured in at 22.8. Technically it said -22.8. Not sure why it said negative... It doesn't start off at 22.8 initially, but if it's paying out for a few seconds, once the motor is spinning at full speed, it seems to top out at 22.8

    So I guess let me know what to do with that information. I know we were looking for 12 or 20, so I am wondering if 22 is close enough to 20, or what?
    I'm still a little scared with you not knowing how to use the meter and such. But if you want to proceed we will. Yes, it looks like it is a 20vdc motor. You got any old laptop power supplies laying around? Most of them are 20vdc. Also 12vdc will work, it will just spin slower. If you have an old DC power supply of reasonable size, it will run the little motor. A large wallwart will. If you have one, unhook the existing wires from the motor, hook the power supply to the motor and plug it in. If it runs backwards, reverse the leads. This is probably the easiest and safest way for you to do it since you don't really know what you are doing. If you trace those leads back from the motor, they will eventually lead back to a relay of sorts. The hot side of that relay is where you would hook the mod in with a switch. The power supply thing will work. You might want to recheck the voltages again just to be sure.

  5. #25
    Tokie Owens markronz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Ok, I got some help from a friend of mine, who's much more knowledgeable with this stuff than I. We were able to wire a SPDT button so that when it's pushed, it switches the power connected to the motor over to the wall wort. When the button is not pushed, it leaves the original motor wires connected. Attached is a picture of what the configuration ended up being.

    payout.jpg

    Now, the good news is that everything works, and when I push the button, the tokens pay out! The bad news is that switching to the wall wort does make the alarm go off. I believe since the original motor wiring is (temporarily) disconnected, it makes the machine trigger a HE (Hopper Empty) error. So I have to push the reset button after each time I make it manually payout. This isn't the end of the world, I know that all I have to do is wire two buttons to the outside of the machine then instead of just one (and deal with the alarm sound while tokens are dispensing). So it's not quite the one button, no alarm, type solution I was looking for, but it will have to do. Unless anyone has any ideas on how to make it not trigger the alarm?

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  7. #26
    Tokie Owens eddieb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    here is a link to the mod in action.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_dNMAcogzw


    a pic of the switch installed.
    IMG00671-20110923-1312.jpg
    Last edited by eddieb; 09-23-2011 at 02:07 PM.

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  9. #27
    Tokie Owens eddieb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Quote Originally Posted by markronz View Post
    Ok, I got some help from a friend of mine, who's much more knowledgeable with this stuff than I. We were able to wire a SPDT button so that when it's pushed, it switches the power connected to the motor over to the wall wort. When the button is not pushed, it leaves the original motor wires connected. Attached is a picture of what the configuration ended up being.

    http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/atta...ter-payout.jpg

    Now, the good news is that everything works, and when I push the button, the tokens pay out! The bad news is that switching to the wall wort does make the alarm go off. I believe since the original motor wiring is (temporarily) disconnected, it makes the machine trigger a HE (Hopper Empty) error. So I have to push the reset button after each time I make it manually payout. This isn't the end of the world, I know that all I have to do is wire two buttons to the outside of the machine then instead of just one (and deal with the alarm sound while tokens are dispensing). So it's not quite the one button, no alarm, type solution I was looking for, but it will have to do. Unless anyone has any ideas on how to make it not trigger the alarm?
    Good deal! I can't think off hand of a solution. Apparently the hopper empty switch is in series with the payout switch. I am having a hard time understanding that however. All you are doing is applying voltage to the motor. The voltage wasn't there to begin with so you aren't unhooking anything. If you totally unhook the motor does the alarm go off? Seems like the circuit is getting a signal from the wallwart voltage and that triggers the alarm. Just unhook the motor totally, power up and let me know if the hopper empty alarm sounds.

    Have you determined that red is hot and black is common on the original wiring. In other words, when you put the red meter lead on the red wire and black meter lead on the black wire and run the motor without the wallwart is the voltage positive? If this is NOT the case and black is positive, just wire switch into black line and that should fix the problem. I think...
    ______________________________________________________
    [QUOTE=markronz;420912] When I have the multimeter set to 200 in DCV as you suggested (my red probe is connected to the VΩmA, not the 10A one) , it measured in at 22.8. Technically it said -22.8. Not sure why it said negative... QUOTE]

    Here is to what I am referring to that makes me think black is hot wire. If this is the case allyou have to do is ground the red wire and hopper will spin. REPORT BACK before you try that!
    Last edited by eddieb; 09-23-2011 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  10. #28
    Tokie Owens markronz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Sorry it's been so long since I've last replied. Had the Flu, cold, threw my back out, then cold again. Been a really nice string of luck! Anyway, I finally got a chance to look at this all again, and figured out a decent fix for my problem. I figured out (after clipping and playing with a few wires) that if I cut the brown wire going to the sensor on the hopper, then the alarm no longer goes off when I pushed the button to pay out tokens. So what I had to do was get a DPDT Momentary Pushbutton (On/On). I was then able to wire it up so that when the power was switched over to my wall wort, that the brown wire to the sensor was disconnected. Then when the button is released, both the normal red power wire to the motor, and the brown wire to the sensor were again connected. This way the alarm does not go off when I push my new token button.

    So this is a great solution for me. Now unfortunately, this only works about 80% of the time. The reason being that when you just cut the wall wort power to the motor, you are not controlling when the motor stops spinning. So occasionally it will stop, and a coin will be right in front of the sensor, not fully ejected. Naturally once you release the button the sensor it restored, and it doesn't like that. So the alarm will go off anyway. So I did end up having to wire the reset button there as well. So when the alarm goes off, I quickly tap the new payout button again to kick out the token, then I press the reset button. Both buttons are hidden behind the ash tray. So again, it's not 100% but it still works the majority of the time with just one button. And I'm very happy! Attached is a picture of my wiring diagram, just in case it helps anyone else some day! Again, it is a Bellco Digiflush machine that I have.
    wiring payout.jpg

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  12. #29
    Tokie Owens chilidog's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    Hi, I love this idea! Does anyone know if using a momentary switch like this 3A 125V SPST Normally Open Pushbutton Momentary Switch : Pushbutton Switches | RadioShack.com would be a problem?

  13. #30
    Tokie Owens Drydock's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not a credit add mod but I like it better

    I just pulled the P/S, opened it up and located where the switch (momentary push button) solders to the board. Then from the switch side I clipped my audiable continuity tester up the 2 of the 3 pins until I got beeps only when the button was pushed and no beep when released. On mine it was the outer 2 terminals, middle not used. Then I got a length of wire, formed a small "hook" on the stripped wire and hooked it on one of the pins and pulled with needle nose and gave one wrap and soldered/trimmed it. same with the other side and ran my wire out of the same hole the switch top comes through. I fed the wires through a drilled hole and test clipped my keyswitch in (it also has 3 leads). When the switch/hopper worked as desired I then soldered the wires to the keyswitch. Works well and is well worth the effort!

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