What is this?

[eddieb]

Still trying to get this vintage Universal to work. Model 8529 I think. Tropicana Big chance. I have attached a picture of a small board in this machine. It is definately an add on. Looks homemade. Is it a fix for the skill stop? It is wired into the wires going to the reel stop board. This model has a pull handle. Also I have two wires with eye conectors on the end that come out behind the hopper that I see no connection for. Green and black wires. Fairly large. Have two small connectors that go up into the top off box that have no where to go. If I had a wiring diagram or schematic...even a pinout with voltages, I could fix this thing pretty fast I think. Does anyone have a similar model or this model that could help me. Here's the board.


I will post some more pics shortly.

[eddieb]

here is the machine...
slot4.jpg





here are the small plugs in top of cabinet...

here is the connectors behind the hopper..

[Moparformances]

ill bet the circuit board is to allow the pull handle to work.. or it could be someones version of an auto stop..

where is SNORTARRIFIC at???

[eddieb]

The pull handle has an optic on it. Came that way. Snortarrific? I don't understand??
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Is there ANY source for circuit diagrams on these things?

[Drunkenclam]

Snortarrific is a member here. More specialised in this field and should be able to advise you

[hanabi]

where is SNORTARRIFIC at???

Snortarrific? I don't understand??

Snortarrific is a member here. More specialised in this field and should be able to advise you

'New in Town' is the member's name (Snortarrific is just his nickname shown under the member name )

Here's a link to the correct member's details PachiTalk

[eddieb]

anyone?

[superbright]

It is home made, it's built on veroboard. The 8 pin chip looks like a 555 timer and the bigger chip is probably an MCU/AVR, pic or atmel e.t.c. My guess is the board facilitates sequetial reel stop. Post the markings on the chips we'll find out for sure.

[eddieb]

I will post the numbers off the chips. Maybe even draw up a little schematic so folks can make their own DIY autostop boards. Looks like half a dozen resistors, 2 caps and two chips. Easy enough. I don't know if I can work on this thing without some kind of schematic. Only way is if I start tracing circuits and doing electical calculations and coming up with voltages etc.. I like doing this stuff, but that is a lot of trouble for a machine you can buy for 200.00 working. What you guys think? Replaced the caps on the light driver and got it to light up. (flouresent tubes only) Pretty! Does anybody know if the other lights, digital readout etc., are CPU controlled? In other words, do all the lights function if the CPU doesn't boot?

[new in town]

Hi eddieb and Welcome to PachiTalk! ! !

Send me a Round Trip Plane Ticket and put me up for a few days and I will look at your Pachi. Got a Hurricane on the way and I need to get out of town for a few days till it blows over.

You MUST have an Ample Supply of Ramen on Hand.

Just Joking. . .

First off what is or is not your machine doing? Does it accept Tokens? Do the reels spin when you pull the handle? (or spin knob if it still has one) If the reels do spin do any of the Stop buttons stop the reels?


That could be a Reel Stop Circuit seeing that it connects to the Stop Button Board. How many wires are on that board? My best guess is 6 of them.

2 for the +5VDC and ground to operate it.

3 connected to the Stop Button Boards Plug.

The last one being a "Reel" spin sense line.

Here is how an Auto Stop device works. :

Each Stop button has 5VDC sitting on it. When your press a Stop Button you ground out this voltage and the Stop Board senses it. It sends a signal to the Main Mother Board to stop that reel.

The Auto Stop device senses the reel starting to spin. (which could be a + or - 5VDC)

After a predetermined time it send these "Ground" inputs to the Stop Button Circuits to stop the reels

There is a very limited database for Universal / Azure Pachislo's. I have not been able to find yours by the name you gave. Could you post a Pic or two of the front of the machine? Especially a good Pic of the Belly Glass.

Being this is an older Pachi it should have a "Stop Board" that looks something like this in it. :



If you do have this Board then connect an Ohm meter to resistors 5, 6 and 7 and probe the wires on the reel stop board plug that this "device" is connected to. If you get a good ground on all three then this is an auto stop device. Also check the fuse on this board an make sure it is O.K.

Let us know more about yout Pachi and again.

Pending Miss Irene my time on the Forum may be limited. Mother Nature has the Priority right now. . .

[eddieb]

I get nothing other than flouresent lights. Even they go out at times. There is a picture of mine (thumbnail) in my second post. That stop board looks alot like mine. Number on mine is 1293. Should there be voltage on the buttons if the CPU hasn't booted?
I replaced the large cap on the stop board. also the small 1 MFD tantalum cap. It was fried. Probably due to larger cap shorting. I have voltage to that board. I don't remember the voltage. I will recheck and post. Seems like 38vdc? Do you know anything about the plug behind the hopper?

[eddieb]

ok..been thinking about the info you posted on the way the reel stop works...correct me if I'm wrong please. You have 5VDC sitting on the stop buttons...When you press a button, you complete circuit to ground which energizes the coil on one of the relays. The coil makes the contacts close and sends a voltage signal to the CPU that the reels are spinning. correct?

[eddieb]

Here is my attempt at a schematic. Looks to me like the problem is the bottom plug that goes nowhere. No route to ground. should they be tied together? I am thinking this may have went to a master control in the casino. Thoughts?

[eddieb]

pic of belly glass you requested.

[eddieb]

one correction on my schematic. the light green wire does indeed go back to the large AMP plug on the power supply like I had it drawn originally. It doesnt go to pushbutton.

[new in town]

Back again,

That device is not a reel stop auto stop. It is an interface upgrade of some type for the pull handle.

I enhanced your Pic's a Bit. :



There is no Spin knob on the front of the machine so the Pull Handle may be Factory Original unless the Big round Thingy to the left of the 3 stop buttons is the push button in your schematic with the Lt. blue, Lt. green and white wires. In that case then the pull arm is an Add On.

Looking at you schematic I would say that the light green wire from the device to the pink wire on the power supply is probably the power wire. The wires I have to ponder on a bit more after picking your brain a little.

On the stop board follow the board run for the Lt. blue wire and tell me where it goes. Does it run down to one of the two IC Chips? If so then this is the Spin "sense" wire. If it runs to resistor 8 in my Pic than it is a Ground.

Vintage.jpg


Back to the Stop Board. The relays on it are the interface portion which communicate back to the Parlor Via the unused plugs on the stop board, particularly CN6. If you follow the board runs from CN6 some of them should tie into the 5 relays.

This plug tells the Parlor such things as :

Tokens in.
Tokens out.
Regular Bonus
Big Bonus
Door open
Error

What is the "push Button" and where is it located with the Lt. blue, Lt. green and white wires? I take it that the Lt. green and white wires are not connected to anything?

You call the switch on the pull handle an "optic". This has only two wires connected to it. A true optic (metal sensing) should have 3 wires. A + to power it, A - to ground it and a third wire to act as the switch when a metal tab is placed between the blades of the optic. A LED optic has 4 wires.

Is the switch on the pull handle actually 2 metal contacts that short when the handle is pulled?

Where is this other push button or is there really not a second push button as you revised this circuit in the last post.

My best guess so far. Do not connect these until we decipher this a bit more.

If that Big round Thingy to the left of the reel stop buttons is in fact the push button in your schematic with the Lt. blue, Lt. green and white wires I would say that this is the older version of a spin knob. In that case to take the Add On device out (disabling the pull arm) it looks like the Lt. blue wire from the push button needs to be reconnected to the Lt. blue wire on CN1.

If the Lt. green and white wires from the push button are not connected to any thing I would think that they were cut out of the circuit for the Add On device and these we must find a home for.

Please power up the Pachi, Ground wire from meter set to aprox 10 VDC connected to resistor 8 in my Pic. Probe the pink wire out of the power supply. 5 VDC?

Power off the Pachi. set meter to Ohm's, leave black meter lead where it is and probe both of the the Lt. green wires out of the power supply? Both read a dead short?

Green in japan Pachi's is normally a ground from the power supply.

Some or all of this may pan out the first try. If not we can continue to figure this out..

Enhanced the other 2 Pic's of wires also so they can play into the mix as we progress. :

[eddieb]

Thanks for the reply. I will check all that out. I am at the office now, but I think the round thingy is a plug. The push button I have drawn on my schematic is one of the connections on the board that goes to the stop buttons on front. Pretty sure the handle is original. The switch has two wires. Maybe it's a magnet switch. When you pull the handle a part of the lower arm goes in betwwen a gap in the switch. Looks similar to the switch on the cointaker. Does the CPU have to be booted for the from panel lights (besides flouresents) to work? I will take some good pics tonight and post them. I am thinking of taking the add-on board out and putting it back to stock til I can get at least something going. Not that I think it latters, but the hopper works too.

[eddieb]

ok... took the add-on board out and started trying to get it back to original to see if I can get "something" out of this machine. I have 4.7vdc on the reel buttons and at the resistor. Looking closer I see where the traces have been cut on the reel stop board and on one of the boards on the front. This one may be too far gone to fix without schematics. I may patch the traces just to see if it does anything.

[eddieb]

Oh..took a closer look at switch on the handle. Has two wires...when i pull the handle, a small piece goes onto the slot showing the handle is pulled down. Red light goes out when switch is made. Has to be optic, reed, magnet or something. The plug at bottom that is unhooked has 5vdc on green wire. The two plugs in top that have nothing on them have 36vdc on them.

[eddieb]

Switch on the pull arm has THREE wires. Not two. My bad. Both the optics have issues. The point where the plug attaches to the board in the switch has pulled loose. I don't know if this is fixable. I pulled out all the mods from the autostop add-on board and I repaired the traces where they were cut. Powered up. I Now have a GAME OVER light. So, I guess i will try to repair the optic switches. Still think it may be hopeless. I need to know if it should have other lights on before a coin or token is dropped. How can I bypass the cointaker while i troubleshoot?