Suggestions for Basic Wire or Metal Stands for a Vintage Pachinko Machine?

[KizzyMan]

Hello all, this is my first post here. I'm looking to buy my first pachinko machine. My uncle had one when I was a kid and I have great memories of sitting in his game room and playing for hours. Has been a lot of fun reading the forums here and learning as much as I can about them, and I'm getting close to picking one out.

As I'd like to be able to use the pachinko on a table top, as opposed to mounting it on a wall, one question I have is in regards to finding a basic tabletop stand for it. In both pictures and auctions I've seen a basic adjustable wire stand such as in the attached photo. While perhaps not as heavy duty as others, I believe something like this will serve its purpose for me. Are these still available for purchase, or can something like them still typically be found in a hardware store (intended for a different purpose) that will do the job?

I've also seen L-brackets used, where the vertical part of the L is at a 45 degree angle and screwed into the back of the machine, such as in the second photo (both photos taken from VintagePachinko.com). I assume something like this could be easily found in the cabinet hardware section of Home Depot?

In addition to these, does anyone have any other recommendations for something simple and lightweight that is sturdy enough to hold the machine for occasional use, but does not require carpentry skills to build?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Frank A]

The best and most stable are feet made out of 12 inch pieces of 1 X 4 pine with beveled edges glued and screwed to the bottom of the wood frame. 2 pine feet per frame. Simple and neat. I have one machine in a custom frame/box and it is very high, heavy and awkward to move. Keep it simple sir.
Frank

[Moparformances]

Welcome to Pachitalk

[JACKSJE4]

Welcome to PachiTalk!!

I agree with Frank. I use 1x4 pine boards (available at Home Depot, Lowes, True Value, Ace Hardware, etc) that are cut to 12" in length. I pre-drill screw holes and use two 1 1/2" drywall screws to attach them to the bottom of the frame, then I put felt pads on the bottom so that they will not scratch furniture. You can also paint them any color to match your decor.

Cheap, easy and sturdy!

Jeff

[owennewton]

I tend to cut mine at 16 inches just for that extra tip protection (never had one go over anyway but I am paranoid ) , I don't glue and I use three 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. We all have our own way of doing it but they are all about the same

[mxfaiman]

1X4 boards are your best bet, because i have some of those blue wire stands and the welds on the broke. As for the boards the material you use doesn't matter. I use maple for mine because it is a harder wood and I have some of it just laying around. Or if your not to good with tools you can buy the bases from vintage pachinko or get inspired by them.

[KizzyMan]

Thanks for the input. Sounds easy enough. I'd probably opt to just use the drywall screws without the addition of wood glue, because I'd prefer the ability to remove the boards easily if at some future point I decided to switch to wall mount.

[Frank A]

Unfortunately without the glue they may wobble. The glue joint can be broken easily with a sharp hammer blow. I did 2 machines last night. The glue also helps keep the frame tight if there are any splits in the bottom of the frame.

[JACKSJE4]

I agree that glue would make the stands more sturdy, however I have never used glue on mine and have never had a problem with the machines getting wobbly or the stands loosening up.

I guess is just depends on how much you plan to shake the machine when you play it.

[owennewton]

the only issues I have ever had with movement or wobble is due to slop in the frame itself and never from the feet. Also why I use 3 screws to keep the feet firm without glue

[yose]

The 1 1/2 grabber screws don't get loose. i sometimes add glue and grabber screw the bottom wood frame to keep it from wobbleing.

[owennewton]

I replace all the nails in the frames with 3 inch drywall screws now and I don't have issues with sloppy frames at all anymore.

I guess I should finish my thoughts sometimes..

[KizzyMan]

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in. I'm finally going to get around to adding the feet this weekend. I'll be going with two 12" x 3.5" x .75" boards, fastened with two 1.25" wood screws on each side.

Question: When working on the underside of the pachinko (i.e. marking and drilling the pilot holes, and screwing in the feet) is it OK to lay the machine down on its back or is it preferable to turn it upside down? (Obviously, in either case, I would be sure to dump the balls out of the machine first).

How do you guys normally approach this?

[ShopratFab]

Best way to do it is to rest the machine on it's side. That way you don't have to worry about cracking a ball tray and you get full access to the base. Make sure you countersink the screws so the heads won't scratch up the surface you set the machine on. Have fun!

[KizzyMan]

Yes, I've got my countersink bit ready at the go.

[Moparformances]

make sure you get all the balls out of the machine befor you lay it one its side..

if a ball move up insted of down they can get into places there not suposed to..

empty all then balls.. attach your feet and then your good to load it back up..

Pics please

[KizzyMan]

When I push on the dump lever, MOST of the balls come out, however there are still a few balls remaining in the jackpot mechanism. Will I need to remove these as well? If so, what is the method for getting them out?

[Moparformances]

once the balls are dumped your should be able to trip the jackpot arm by hand and release them one jackpot at a time..

as the ball falls off the jackpot seesaw it falls on to the long swing arm that lowers the ball to the bottom of the machine.. that arme pivots and runs up the right side (back) of the machine.. then pivots again to the left to the jackpot itself.. you should be able to reach in near the jackpot and move that left hand arm up and down, to manualy drop the jackpot.. the machine will know your cheating and should drop these jackpot balls out the back.. so have a catch box handy..

Hope that makes sense??

once your done dont forget to reset the ball dump... if ya forget you will only forget one time..

[Bigdog]

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in. I'm finally going to get around to adding the feet this weekend. I'll be going with two 12" x 3.5" x .75" boards, fastened with two 1.25" wood screws on each side.

Question: When working on the underside of the pachinko (i.e. marking and drilling the pilot holes, and screwing in the feet) is it OK to lay the machine down on its back or is it preferable to turn it upside down? (Obviously, in either case, I would be sure to dump the balls out of the machine first).

How do you guys normally approach this?

You don't need to worry about turning the machine on it's side or upside down for that matter if you are simply working on the frame. Just open the CELL door from the back, open it wide, and pull the entire cell off of the pins. This just leaves you with the wooden frame, and at that point you can do anything you need to without worrying about balls going anywhere, damage, etc.

[RivkahChaya]

I know I'm late to the party, but why is everyone using drywall screws and not wood screws? drywall screws have wider threads, and will become looser faster. Also, if you have an electric drill, use a bit the width of the screw minus the thread to drill out the hole; this will make the screw go in straight, and keep the wood from splitting.

Loctite makes a product that is not wood glue, but is specifically for keeping screws, bolts, and such secure. There are different kinds: products for metal screws, wood screws, etc., products meant to be removed with hand tools eventually, and products that require impact (pneumatic) tools, or solvents. Wood glue does not dry well inside a screw hole. A product specifically for securing a screw is a better idea. Loctite, IIRC, calls the product "threadlocker."