Sanyo Comet II - BigBadger's project

[BigBadger]

Yes, it helps. Thanks for doing that video. I found where the parts go now and will clean them up prior to adding them into the re-assembly. I still have lots to do!!

You mentioned you were a plater? Did you re-zinc an chromate all the bare steel parts? I started to do that with screws and springs. I'd like to take the hinges all off as the Zinc is trashed at this point and doing nothing anymore.

[Moparformances]

worked in a industrial chrome shop.. we specilized in hard chrome for ware and tare... Plating Parts for combine tractors was our main customers... (damn hard Grain int the Northwest) and i snuck in a few sets of Header pipes for my Dodge

so all we did was THICK chrome on steel...

Rechrome on the parts we did was different... we would first reverse the charge on the parts for 30 seconds to clean them.. then flip the charge and make the part Neg charge for a 12 hr shift to replate them again.. any one who know beauty chrome knows parts are usualy plated for minuts not hours

[BigBadger]

We do mostly anti-corrosion Zinc plating mainly but do also hard chrome or nickel (build-up), decorative chrome, Black Chrome, Copper, gold, Rhodium, and my specialty is Anodising which includes hard, anti-corrosion and decorative. If the tanks weren't so hot I might try to re-plate the plastic by layering copper on it first. Could be an interesting experiment !

[Moparformances]

If the tanks weren't so hot I might try to re-plate the plastic by layering copper on it first. Could be an interesting experiment !

i was thinking aobut he heat myself... and i dont think its a huge worry.. we have had member put there parts in the dishwasher berfor and no proplems the hot water has to be new the same temp??? the problem comes fome the drying cycle of the washer.. 120f is not realy that hot... im not saying take your best pice and give it a try but if ya have an extra part... what have ya got to loose... and if it works im sure a few members have parts they would like to have chromed

[BigBadger]

I couldn't do it for others. I work for the Gumment on big ships that go Boom, and can only sneak in pieces on 'off' time... I'm sure not too diff from your 'headers'... wish I could be of help that way...I have to ask my supervisor (to look the other way) just for my stuff...

[BigBadger]

Has anyone here bought the $25 manuals from eBay seller vintagepachinko, or the cheaper ones from bishop1963? If so, are they worth the money?

Are they members here?
______________________________________________________
Does anyone here ever replace the wooden frames, wood backing or most visibly the laminate covered wood front door? I pulled the screws from my front chrome frame and realized that most were stripped and the wood, though feeling solid enough has become powder in many of the screw holes.

Should the frame have both glass AND a plastic window? Mine has 2 slots but only a plastic plexi-type window in the slot closest to the pins.

[Moparformances]

Has anyone here bought the $25 manuals from eBay seller vintagepachinko, or the cheaper ones from bishop1963? If so, are they worth the money?

Are they members here?.

Billy with Vintage Pachinko is a member hear... I have not bought any ones manual befor as any information you couls need is right hear...
with that being said allot of people like haveing a book and paper to read threw...

______________________________________________________

Does anyone here ever replace the wooden frames, wood backing or most visibly the laminate covered wood front door? I pulled the screws from my front chrome frame and realized that most were stripped and the wood, though feeling solid enough has become powder in many of the screw holes..

there are lots of way to fix the holes... fill them with a mis of sawdust and glue then redrill pilot holes.. or take a sliver of wood and place it in the hole so the screw has something to bite on.. replacing the front frame is allot of work..

Should the frame have both glass AND a plastic window? Mine has 2 slots but only a plastic plexi-type window in the slot closest to the pins.

there are lots of talk about glass vs plexi... glass is louder and plexi is safer... i like glass for both, cause i dont have little ones to bang on them and it does not scratch as easy... others like plexi for all the oppisit reasons

[BigBadger]

So the frame should have 2 panes of "window" then? The panes are pretty thin. The plastic in the one slot is like 1/16" or maybe metric.

Seems odd, but then again a lot about these machines seem odd!!

[Moparformances]

my thougts are having 2 panes is to keep a player from using a magnet to cheat

[JACKSJE4]

I use single piece of 1/8" plexi or glass in the frame, depending on the machine and who will be playing it. If it gets shipped, then I use plexi. Personally, I like the "plink" sounds the balls make when they hit the glass.

As for replacing the wood frame, I have done that to several of my pachi's using oak.

Pachinko Machines 032.jpgPachinko Machines 031.jpgPachinko Machines 012.jpgPachinko Machines 011.jpg

Each frame is a custom fit, and I made stands to match.

Jeff

[BigBadger]

Ah... That makes sense!!

By the way, I've been taking the fuzzy, rusty and corroded metal bits off and re-zinc plating the steel non-visible stuff. Any big pieces I can see I'm re-chroming, and in the case of screws and small visible bits that could provide highlights ... GOLD plating!! I'll pop up the pix once I get things a bit further along.

That is, if my super doesn't ...

[BigBadger]

Very nice Jacks!!

[BigBadger]

I'm not too sure about the lighting. It seems simple enough but I'm wondering why there is an electronics connection on the circuit board. Also whether there is a light that I cannot see, or access.

On picture 1, there are 2 of what I presumed to be 3 lighted areas. It seems that A and B are obvious but is there nothing under C?

On Picture 2, I don't understand why there is a circuit board in the first place let alone why there is a fuse holder. Is this original? 9v. would certainly not need a fuse. What could connect to the circuit board connection?

2011-02-28_102629.jpgIMG00209-20110228-1017.jpgIMG00210-20110228-1018.jpg

[wrkey]

The electronics worked like this... in a large parlour.. there would be a "large" DC power source of 10v. Each machine would be connected with three wires. One providing 10v positive, one providing 10v negative and one used as a ground signal for the empty hopper. You can imagine with what could be hundreds of machines that the amperage that the power source must provide would have to be pretty high. Thus if a machine "shorted" that full amperage would be brought to bear and could be quite distructive. I'd rather get hit with 5 amps of 110v than 50 amps of 10v!

Anyway, I think the fuses where there to protect the machine from this high amperage that was available and to keep the rest of the parlour from being shut down for one machine.

It is also this configuration that determines how the leaf switches are configured. The jackpot switch is on the positive side. The Hopper empty switch is on the negative side as it also provides for the 'ground signal' that returns to an operator control board that turns on a lamp there and indicates which machine was out of balls.

[BigBadger]

Interesting. That makes sense. I assume that the power supply would go to the connector plug but that leaves a pair of red wires down by the empty tray micro switch that are cut and go only to the circuit board. I think I can easily fix all this as the micro switches appear to be in good order still if not a little dirty. If I have any issues with the 2 lights I'll post again regarding the lighting.

Thanks Rusty Key!!

[wrkey]

Hey Badger,

Check out this thread for connection options. I just notice you have the same type of plug that I had.

http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35225

[BigBadger]

Anyone have any idea what may be missing form these 2 areas? I see staple marks but cannot find any pix from any other machines that show what should be here ... or if it was important. Oh yeah right beside my newly gold plated latch holder...

[JACKSJE4]

I don't think anything is missing. I have seen those indentations before on machines I have restored and suspect they are pilot holes for other cell designs that could be installed on the boards.

[pinball wizard]

I don't think anything is missing. I have seen those indentations before on machines I have restored and suspect they are pilot holes for other cell designs that could be installed on the boards.

that's what i think too.mine has the same holes.

[BigBadger]

I completed my wiring on the Sanyo Comet II. I didn't want to lose any original wiring or boards assuming that what I had was indeed original. I may change these to flashing LED circuits later but in the mean time It stays original.

It was simple enough, but maybe will help with other newbs that end up with an original 5 pin connector.

Note that the fuse is used only as a jumper. It is also handy to have a few female pin connectors. (available at Radio Shacks and Circuit City, etc.) no special tool needed.

I really do not know why there was a pair of red wires that I eventually connected to the 9v. battery. They come out beside the empty tray switch and were cut ends, connected to nothing. I cut one of them off the circuit board from the very bottom connection (Listed #1-7 from top to bottom) and attached it to the 2nd pin from the top. You cannot see these connections but I will label the ultimate configuration as:

#1 - Red (to empty tray light)
#2 - Red (to empty tray light) & White (to jackpot light)
#3 - White (to Jackpot Switch)
#4 - White (to Jackpot Switch)
#5 - White (to jackpot light)
#6 - Red (to 9v. supply) *polarity does not matter
#7 - no connection

Hope this makes sense. There may be some redundancy but then I'm no electrician or electronics technician, just a guy having fun with a new toy!