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Thread: Latest Arrangeball Projects

  1. #21
    Pachi Puro emmadog's Avatar
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    SUCCESS!!!
    alright a little back story. both of these machines have been modded to be controlled externally and not need tokens via a wire harness ending in a plug. the mods were simple-just some rewiring and an added breadboard. anyway, both machines powered up but since i did not have whatever piece of equipment that the machines plugged in to, i could not start a game. Well thanks to Eddie and Sharmoni putting up with all my questions and taking their time to photograph their machines and provide descriptions, i figured it out. i left all the added mods on but found where the wires from the disconnected micro switch to. i clipped them from the breadboard, stripped the ends and touched them together and was rewarded with the familiar token insert sound unique to these machines.
    i was going to get the issue fixed one way or another but am very relieved that it was done much quicker than i thought. thanks again Eddie and Sharmoni!

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  3. #22
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Alright, I've got them powered up and have played a few games thru each. Multiple sound effects on the machines and each one has a volume control mounted on the bottom inside of the frame.
    I managed to get one number 7 on each game which caused the tulips to open for .5 or .7 seconds depending on the machine. The times go up from there if you can manage to get two or three 7's in the readout or 3 of the same of any number. The spinners also flash bright red when the tulips open.
    Unlike dropping balls into pockets to see how various features work, you can't artificially have the readout display "winning" combos to watch the tulips do their thing. You just have to play.
    In these pics I've placed a ball in the top center pocket with a 2 on it. This causes the purplish light in the upper left to come on and doubles your score.
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    A short clip of the clown machine where I managed to have 3 games with tulip activation.
    The coin slot is still full of hot glue so I'm manually activating the coin-in microswitch. The tulips open during the first game from a 7, again at 1:30 due to getting another 7 in the display, and again at 1:53 thanks to 3 of the same number.
    YouTube - Unrestored but Functional Taiyo Electron "Clown" Challenge Ball

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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    The clown is being broke down. Been a busy day for projects. I am in the process of leveling the inserts on my GTB Mini Pool pin and then I played a half dozen last few games on this pachinko before dismantling.
    Luckily no issues or broken parts. I try and cut as few wires as possible but sometimes it's necessary if you really want to get things clean. When I do, the ends all get labeled and all circuit boards and their corresponding plugs get labeled as well. That and lots of pictures. I learned the hard way thinking I would remember how something went only to return to the machine months later and not remember. I'd say I'm maybe half way done with disassembly at this point. I also found a place that will copy the EPROM in each machine so I can have backups of the data.
    A few pics to include a very dirty tulip.
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    Last edited by emmadog; 01-01-2011 at 06:30 PM.

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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Got a little more done before calling it a night.
    In the pics you can see the user-mounted volume control on the black plastic coin chute that leads to the front of the machine. All the yellow parts in the pic are actually supposed to be white. The huge contrast between the color of the plastic (visible part exposed to UV light and smoke, dirt, etc.) and the rear of the coin tray that was shielded is evident here. I at first thought the tan/yellow color scheme was original though it seemed odd to me and I didn't really care for it. So I'm happy to see the original plastic color was in fact white. I'll retr0bright all those parts and use another method if that doesn't get the results I want.
    Give me a broken/dirty pachinko and I'm happy.
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  11. #26
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Removed the playfield from the frame of the machine, then the playfield plastics and rails, then nails then the graphic. I used the tool pictured to remove all the nails in about 10 minutes. I definitely was impressed with this tool and it is the way to go. Nails close together can be pulled out two at a time.
    The rounded head will leave a slight indentation in the board so I placed a 4X2" piece of plexi behind the tool with one hand and pulled with the other. Very smooth and very fast. Thank you to the member who posted about these earlier.
    The areas around the tulips and at the top of the playfield are the original, darker purple so that will be my reference color when having the new one made. The difference is more apparent in person.
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  13. #27
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Latest:
    Finished cleaning and repainting the tulips. In these pics the satin clear is still drying and all that left is to put new number stickers on. The solenoids were also taken apart and cleaned-both were full of black solenoid dust.
    I partially retr0brighted the plastics and some came out pretty white, namely the rectangular speaker cover and the two white and blue rings that the spinners attach to. The upper left and right triangular pieces came out alright as well. But I soon realized that with this many pieces of varying discoloration that very likely they would all not realize the same color of whiteness. That's not good enough for this project so as I thought I'd have to do anyway before starting this, I am going to have to paint these parts. So I stopped the process but the good news is that the liquid recipe does an excellent job of parts cleaning. Cleans most of the gunk off for you even though I scrub the parts before hand.
    Painting is no biggy, it'll just add a little more time. In the pic the coin strip at the top has started the painting process. First I scuffed with 600 grit, then two coats of adhesion promoter followed by two coats of gray enamel which is when this pic was taken. The next few coats will be a slightly off white acrylic which adheres nicely to the enamel and will be the final color. This will be followed by several coats of a hard clear. I am only doing this one piece at first to make sure all the paints are compatible which I'm sure they will be but you never know. I also do this to make sure I get the results I want before starting the other pieces.
    It sounds like alot of work and to some I'm sure it is but it's fun and the only frustrating thing is waiting for each stage to dry.
    Anyway, here's some before and after pics of the tulips as well as the plastic parts after partial retr0brighting.
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  15. #28
    Sandwich Shooter pachinkojeff's Avatar
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Those are nice looking tulips!!!
    Wherever you go, there you are.
    Yukamin Zaki

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  17. #29
    I am Spartacus!! bfree's Avatar
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    Smile Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Quote Originally Posted by pachinkojeff View Post
    Those are nice looking tulips!!!
    I thought this was a G rated forum.
    Bill
    "trying Is the first step towards failure" Homer J. Simpson

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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Finished base coating all the parts (though not all are pictured here) and some still have masked off areas.
    The tan piece at bottom has been repainted but the non-painted areas have not been polished yet/cleaned up. The plastic was charred and misshapen around the Taiyo logo from people holding cigs in their left hand while playing, After lots of sanding with sanding sticks and sandpaper and then repainting, it came out practically looking like new.
    Best pic I had of before restoration of that particular piece.
    After base coating.
    Taiyo piece.
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    Last edited by emmadog; 01-09-2011 at 08:17 PM.

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  20. #31
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Not terribly interesting but these are the front and rear pics of the sanded playfield minus laminate. Earlier I mentioned I was going to have the playfield redone by a commercial company but I am doing it myself instead. I am doing exactly what the company I had in mind would be doing anyway. It's very time consuming.
    Redoing my power flash was a matter of simply finding the right color vinyl and applying it to the playfield. My Jan Ball was more time consuming since I had to scan the original and then clean up the image.
    Luckily for this the laminate came off in one piece. I then cut it into quarters to fit on my scanner, scanned them in and reattached them in the program. For this Taiyo, though the design really is not terribly complicated but there are lots of small, multicolored shapes to deal with. Basically every pixel has to be recolored or redrawn. I'd estimate I've spent about 12 hours so far and am about 2/3 of the way through. Even with all the useful, time saving editing tools it's still quite tedious. I don't think the Taiyo Zodiac will take as much time.
    Once this is done, I can get a couple of prints made, apply it and the mylar, and start the reassembly of the machine. The frame has been sanded inside and out, a matte, clear sealer applied, and sanded again. Still a bunch of various parts left to address such as cleaning the wire harnesses, circuit boards, polishing all the interior plastics with Novus, etc. but with the frame and playfield back together, I can reattach parts as I refurb them in the order they go together. This is my preferred method of refinishing.
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    Last edited by emmadog; 01-13-2011 at 07:14 PM.

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  22. #32
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Latest:
    Had to take a break from the cel editing process. Here's some before and after pics of a few of the plastic trim pieces that I completed this morning. They are a far cry from their pachinko parlor patina to say the least. Hard to believe they weren't originally yellow but the plastic on their reverse sides is snow white. These 4 have had the excess paint removed from areas that I didn't want paint. It's inevitable to get some on the white borders for example when dealing with such small spaces. Once the paint cures I use an x-acto knife and gently scrape away the paint. The result are perfect, sharp lines. Once I finish doing the clean up to the remaining pieces, they will all get cleared after fully curing for 4 or 5 days.
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  24. #33
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    So how many of you polish the shooter mechanism? I don't either but for this machine I did. The rest of the frame has been sanded to remove the darkened areas not covered up by components. Basically removing the "ghost" image seen when all the parts are removed.
    I finally finished the digital clean up of the cel. I couldn't email it since the file was too large so I loaded it onto an SD card and brought it to the printer. It's going to be printed on adhesive vinyl and after a day or so of letting the ink dry the print shop will cover it with a protective clear laminate. That's likely enough protection but I may still cover that with mylar. It should be ready by this Thursday and I'll have it placed on the frame with new play field pins installed and a few of the other parts as well (tulips, metal rails, etc.)
    Speaking of digital clean ups I used the book "Digital Restoration Secrets" which provided tons of do's and don'ts. For example JPG files are not suited for printing, scan the images in at the highest resolution possible, use the RGB color scheme and not CYMK, don't compress the file, etc. All that was Greek to me but it's essential to be familiar with to obtain an exact reproduction. So it was actually a bit of good news that my file was too large to email since that meant it contained enough data for a hi-res result.
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  26. #34
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    The cels were done early. They came out very, very nice. Sharp lines and even, rich colors thanks to learning the correct way/best way to redo artwork digitally. This pic doesn't do it justice since it's from my phone but I should have it mounted to the playfield frame Thursday.
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    Fever Hunter ACMech's Avatar
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Quick question, what technique do you use when you lay down the vinyl, ie. do you start at the top and work your way down, start in the middle, etc.? Looks really nice. Thanks for keeping us in on the progress of this machine.

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  30. #36
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    Very good question. I usually start at the bottom that way there is extra material in case I need to grab or touch the adhesive side for some reason. If any errors or issues occur while starting the process that can't be fixed then it's ok since that part won't be seen once the machine is back together. You could do the same from the top but just make sure and have the print shop give a larger border. I then take the original and lay it on the wood frame (frame being the wood backing the laminate goes on) and mark on the edge of the picture somewhere next to a conspicuous part of the image and then mark on the side of the wood frame. I then take the new one, lay it down and line up the mark on the wood with the same spot on the new cel. This ensures that the cut outs line up with the proper areas on the new cel. I suppose that's not terribly critical but unless you gave yourself some extra color at the cutouts on the new copy, you may have some areas of just background color if the new one is not lined up perfectly with the cutouts. Next, scotch tape either the top or bottom sides of the cel to the sides of the frame to hold it in place as the backing is peeled off so that it won't shift. Peel off a few inches of backing at the opposite end of the tape and stick it down. Now you can remove the scotch tape and remove the rest of the backing while using a squeegee.
    Also on frames with large cutouts such as this one, I either cut a hole in the cel over that area or place the frame on a raised surface so that air can flow thru the frame's cut out hole. I learned this the hard way on my Jan Ball dragon. As I was laying the vinyl down I had the frame on the floor. Air couldn't escape and caused the vinyl above the cut out to puff up and it caused wrinkling. Luckily I always print two copies in case I screw one up. If the print shop laminates your print (which is a good idea) the cel will be substantially thicker and heavier which helps to minimize wrinkles and bubbles.
    Last edited by emmadog; 01-20-2011 at 07:25 AM.

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  32. #37
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    I got the cel on and went ahead with a layer of mylar over that. I can say that having the print shop laminate the vinyl greatly simplifies the vinyl installation. In other words, since it's heavier and thicker I had no bubbles and no wrinkles at all. I just laid it on and squeegeed as I went.
    Then I managed to put half or so new nails in that I bought from YJA before calling it a night. The nails are just hammered in enough to keep them there. I'll use an old nail as a guide to seat them fully and then adjust them once they're all in. After playing a few dozen games I'll give them their final adjustment.
    The tulips and plastic trim pieces are just loosely placed on there in this pic just to get an idea of how it will look. So far so good.
    Here's a low-res phone pic:
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    Last edited by emmadog; 01-21-2011 at 09:07 PM.

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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    still a phone pic but better lighting
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  36. #39
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    All the nails are in but not adjusted. I also have one rail in but it's not secured down yet. The original flat wire used to hold the rails in always seems to be corroded and about half break upon removal plus I don't want to use rusty material. So on my machines I replace the old material with stainless lock wire. To tighten it down I use two wood screws as anchors at each point and wrap the wire around those and then tighten the screws down
    I place the screws in the original position of the old flat wire material. But it may be that upon reassembly a new anchor screw is in the way of some plastic structure. When that happens I make sure I leave enough wire so I can locate that anchor a little further out. This is another reason that plenty of disassembly pics are good so it's easy to see which ones will be in the way.
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    Default Re: Latest Arrangeball Projects

    I attached the original tax/license sticker as well as the Taiyo logo and the other one with the boat likeness on the lower left. I think the boat thing may be the company that made these cels for Taiyo. I could have scanned them, cleaned them up, and made some nice decals or maybe even water-slip decals but I like having the originals. Plus the used-to-be-white areas on those two smaller logos show just how yellowed the cel had become and is an interesting reminder.
    That's all I'll get done today but I'll resume tomorrow afternoon and by then I should have all of the rails on as well as the clear plastic ball staging area where the balls line up waiting to be shot.
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