fluorescent lights on front of machine don't work

[mrdoobie.com]

I just purchased a "Dance Groove" machine from craigslist for $50. The owner said it didn't work, so I brought it home and used the keys for it and reset it. Started right up and seems to work fine... with the exception of the front fluorescent lights.

I tried these things:

1.) I removed both bulbs and checked the appearance. They both appear to be in very nice condition (no burn spots, dark spots, or clinky sounds when I lightly shook them).

2.) I checked the poles on both bulbs and they are shiny and clean looking, the connection points on the bulbs appear solid, tight, and clean... so I put them back in the unit... reset the machine and tested, no go.

3.) I checked the wire connection points, disconnected them, appeared to be clean and reconnected them... reset the machine and tested, no go.

4.) I looked for a fuse, didn't see one. If there is a fuse, it might be that... or the ballast?

The rest of the machine appears to be working fine and from what I can see it's getting power from the same main unit in the lower left in the inside back of the machine.

Anyone have any ideas about the next thing I should test? If you need photos, I will be happy to take them.

Also... the artwork across the bottom front fluorescent light cover is missing... it's not a technical question, but if anyone has a "Dance Groove" machine or photos or can scan the front cover... anything would be appreciative. I have a friend at a sign shop that might be able to reproduce something for me... but I haven't seen photos of any other machines like this one the web. Anything at all would be a help.

It was a great score!

My baby hit the jackpot while I was testing this... it right out rocks. The music on this machine is great and it looks like there are many different jackpot options to win (says 15 big bonus on front)... I wish I had a video camera to catch my baby's dance moves... total funk-o-matic.

[mrdoobie.com]

I read that someone had a similar issue... and that someone else recommend looking to see if there was a "starter" that needed to be replaced.

I looked all over inside and didn't see any "can-like" starters.

I did removed the internal power supply cover and saw a fuse... the fuse was okay though... inside the internal power supply cover I saw the main power connectors that went to the lights... these were intact and tight also.

The power supply connect split to two separate boxes covered with holes that were mounted under the reels... the power went into these boxes and went out to the lights. There appears to be one box for each light bulb. I can only guess that these boxes (with holes in them to provide ventillation) are probably what start or regulate the use of the fluorescent bulbs.

I will remove one of the covers and take a look inside... doesn't look like enough room in there for a can starter... but maybe enough for a fuse.

If you have any ideas... I surely appreciate it.

[mrdoobie.com]

Okay... so I got one of the two vented covers off..

YIKES!!!

There is a fuse there... and it was blown but someone had soldered a THICK WIRE across instead of replacing it! Can you say "fire hazard" or "cooked components"? The THICK WIRE was partially melted... fortunately it appears that the damage has been localized to the "light card" (I think it was called by another user)... this thing is probably roasted. Surprisingly the fuse place on the card read 250v... so I'm guessing this card was acting as a starter... now that it's "fried".. probably needs replacing.

I wasn't able to unscrew the screws on the other cover. Whatever monkey soldered this, probably tightened it so tight so that no one would check (fire investigators look for those kinds of things when your house burns down!). I've disconnected the second though... and am considering wiring a couple of small matching fluorescent ballasts into the unit that are properly rated for the bulbs. I'll ask the guys at my hardware store about it... probably a pretty easy fix.

I tested the AC (black and white wires going to the box where the "light card" was) and it seems to be getting good juice. I tested the flow coming out and it was just a trickle. I think it's just a matter of making the proper conversion (if necessary) and installing a little silver twist in ballast ($.99 at the hardware store). I can't imaging it'll be all that difficult... I don't know why they didn't do it that way when they made these machines. These light cards look overly complicated for just turning on and running these fluorescent bulbs. Will double check the bulb wattage to be sure.

Does anyone out there have any reasons not to convert this machine this way?

[mrdoobie.com]

I've been talking back and forth with another individual who has a similar problem. Ideally... replacing the "can starters" (if your machine has them), or the "light card/s" should do the trick and keep your machine all original.

If you have a 12v DC source available (in your machine or a 110v AC source and a 12v DC converter)... a "cold cathode" fluorescent fixture is probably next best choice... and you can find them in kit's of 2 bulbs with a mod set up for a computer case. You will probably need some wire and soldering skill to run the bulbs far enough apart to have one in the "top panel" area and one in the "belly glass" area. I haven't tried this... but it sounds like the next best option, if... you already have a 12v DC source in your machine OR a 110v AC source with a 12v DC converter (inverter?). The "cold cathode" kit is priced at around $10 shipped and even comes with a switch.

The next option... if you only have the original 110v AC power source (like I have)... a 6.6' LED white rope light is available on ebay shipped to the US for less than $11... this also comes with an effects box that allows for "constant on, blinking, pulsing, streaming, fading, etc." use of the lights. Also the LED rope light I ordered is adjustable in size and can actually be "cut" to specific desired lengths (because of the way it is wired). The installation (which I'll post here) should only take soldering two wires... and zip ties... from what I've seen in my machine it shouldn't require any drilling either.

I'm not sure which will use less juice the LED's or the "cold cathode" tubes... both probably use very little. Both seem much less expensive than purchasing original "light cards"... though I think can starters are REALLY cheap and you can probably find them at your local hardware store. I found a silver one for my beer sign for .99 cents.

I'll post updates when I get the lights and install them.

[mrdoobie.com]

Okay... so I got the cold cathode tubes and then the converter... I hooked them up as you can see in the photos below. There is a small phillips head screw under the small sticker next to the AC plug on the converter... peel it back and you'll see the screw. Unscrew the screw and the plastic cover will open up... unsolder the two wires connected to the AC prongs and solder them to the wires that unplug from your Pachi rated at 100V (make sure they are UNPLUGGED and your pachi is powered OFF and UNPLUGGED). Next cut the wire connected to the center prong on the cigarette lighter DC socket THIS is the positive DC wire output... wire this to the red wire that plugs into the COLD CATHODE TUBE converter (power wire not the wires that go to the bulbs) and solder it together, wrap with black electrical tape. Next cut the wire soldered to the SIDE of the cigarette lighter DC socket THIS is the negative wire output from the converter... wire this to the black wire that plugs into the COLD CATHODE TUBE converter (ground DC wire, not the wires that go to the bulbs) wrap all exposed wires with tape individually. The bulbs easily fit in place with velcro tape included with the CCT kit and there was plenty of wire from the bulbs to place them where you would like in the top glass and in the belly glass area. Next use the velcro tape to position the converter box connected to the tube wires...somewhere on the back of the inside of the front door...away from the door jamb so the wires don't get pinched. Zip tie the wires to other wires to make it neat. Next velcro tape the DC converter to the inside power box cover (inside your pachi in the rear on your left) be sure to keep it clear of the hopper motor or other things that may get HOT. Next zip tie the wires to keep them neat and away from the door jamb when it closes. Plug it in... plug the pachi into a power strip that is turned OFF. Close the front of the pachi and turn on the power strip. If anything doesn't work... power off the strip, unplug the pachi and carefully open the machine... make sure a wire didn't slip loose. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH ELECTRICITY!!!

They work (as you can see) but aren't near as bright as what the original fluorescent would be. Bright enough... but if anyone is going to go this way, I would recommend getting 2 sets of 2... so you could have two on the top panel and two on the belly glass area. They look brighter than they really are in the photo... but bright enough to work.

Just today I finally got the rope light LED in the mail... took forever to get here... plugged them in... and each LED was only a little brighter than the cathode tubes... collectively looking at them... they weren't AS bright as the cold cathode tubes...SO, I'd say go with the cold cathode tubes and a simple AC to DC (car cigarette lighter socket looking thingy).

Here are links to the items on ebay:

COLD CATHODE TUBES

12" DUAL WHITE COLD CATHODE LIGHT KIT MOD CASE BRIGHT - eBay (item 380281735477 end time Nov-21-10 14:38:19 PST)

The seller's name is "all_city"

AC to DC CONVERTER

110V AC to 12V DC Car Outlet Power Adapter Converter - eBay (item 280442152976 end time Nov-17-10 19:00:45 PST)

The seller's name is "bestelectronic-store"

[mrdoobie.com]

Here are close-up photos of the end result.

Note: The little black box with the red and black wires leading out of the round side hole... these are the positive and negative 12v DC output that connect to the "teal" colored inverter that the two CCT bulbs are connected to. I used the existing white connector that I have mounted to what was once one of the two AC prongs on the little black box..so that I can easily remove the 100v power wires.

If I were to add any other 12v DC accessories (extra CCT fixture, etc.), it would be easy enough to unplug the little black box, open it up... and connect the positive and negative accessory wires to where I have the red and black wires soldered individually inside the little black box.

There is also a small red LED on the side of the little black box (you can't see because I had the flash on during the photo). This shows me that I have AC power running into the little black box.

It's a neat and simple connection.

Also note the location of the CCT behind the top glass in the last photo. I had to move it "higher" up since it wasn't as bright as the original fluorescent to create a brighter effect.

I hope this helps you!