New Guy here with Model A single shot

[Moparformances]

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As for the edit button, I can no longer see it either. When I make a post, I have no chance to edit it.

I too have mised the Edit button... and boy do i use it

[dattia]

OK guys... you still have the ability to EDIT... it must just be done quickly, before your edit button disappears. I'm not sure about the length of time... maybe 5 or 10 minutes.

This is my edit to this post... done immediately after posting the above!


...and now I am editing a second time to my original post.


Third time... and so on.

[JACKSJE4]

The edit feature was disabled in the Vintage Pachinko forum following a recent upgrade. I notified Sid of the issue via PM this morning and he fixed it about an hour ago.
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Correction: he notified me an hour ago that he will fix it. I am still unable to edit my post, and the automerge for double posts is not working. (Check the time stamps on these two posts).
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Hmmm... Looks like the automerge is working now.

[dattia]

Hmmm... you guys must have been misbehavin' in the Vintage Pachinko Forum!

Wait...this is the Vintage Pachinko Forum!

[Microbus99]

Here are pics of the progress so far today (think I'm done for now).
Asking opinions on the metal casting. I think I have it so it just matches the aluminum panel surrounding it. I just want it to look nice/normal, not overdone. There is a white stripe with Japanese letters set in to it, I will plan on respraying that stripe, it is only nice in a few stretches.
The glass door is off. That's on the "to do" list.
Behind the plastic panels there were paper inserts. The one above the shooting lever was waterstained. I have tried a light bleach solution and it may have helped a tiny bit, it is drying now.
Also seeking opinions on if I should repaint the light yellow wooden front, you can see it's darkened. I have tried cleaning it only a small amount.
Gilly

I've sanded down the old finish on a few machines and clear coated them with Urethane. It comes out pretty nice.

Something I've just done with a machine that had the Formica front that was chipped and scratched is cover the Formica with a adhesive backed Wooden Ash Veneer from Rockler hardwoods and cleared it with Urethane. It came out REALLY good. It looks brand new but classic looking with the real wood finish. Much better then Formica in my opinion.

Just another idea for you!

Have fun!!

[Gilly]

Thanks. Yeah I was kind of wondering what the finish was. I had read "paper" someplace, this isn't paper. It is a rather durable glossy finish almost like plastic. I say "durable" as removing the crescent shaped piece over the jackpot light I wedged a screwdriver between the play board and trim piece and it didn't affect it at all.
I think I'll stick with the original cabinet paint for now anyways. It is a bit worn on the right side, but I cleaned and waxed it and it's presentable.
I did a bit of baking with that cup piece today to bake the paint. I need to get the paint off the high areas and will try to get a picture of it once it'sdone, I think it's going to turn out nicely.
Gilly

[beachcat]

each site has different rules in this thread these are the posting rules

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it is listed at the bottom in each section

[Gilly]

Got the cup part finished and installed.
I thought I would then continue up the board, but got sidetracked. I thought before I reinstalled the ringer that it should also be cleaned. Now I find myself going up through things on the rear of the machine instead of the front. It's all pretty dirty.
Gilly

[prunfarm]

Very sharp looking. Good work.

[Gilly]

Going to go through a few things here fast.
I have the machine as disassembled as i think I want to go with it. I took a few risks with the plastic removal and I am done. To take the large plastic part off the back would have me trying to unsolder the overflow ball leaf switch. Not worth it. In this pic you can see the new spring for the shooter I got from Billy Connolly.

[Gilly]

Found out that the jackpot seesaw is BRASS so am having fun cleaning that up. Must have been just to make the machine more attractive in the jackpot area. It'll look nice when I am done. LOTS better already in this picture. Was it common to make this out of brass?

I got a little hung up because the rotary tool I bought today to help polish this is a POS. I could buy a 1 speed Dremel brand tool, I am wondering if a 1 speed is good enough? Any comments? Would like to stay under $50 on the tool. I could just return it to Menards and get another one (it was a good price, under $20) but now of course I wish I would have bought a good one to begin with.

Gilly

[Moparformances]

all i can offer is

i sure love my multi speed dremel.. for that very reason

[Gilly]

Techie sort of question. Remember this is a single shot recycler.
On the elbow from the top bin to the bottom bin (where the missed balls end up, which channel into the jackpot seesaw) there is a regulator, when there is enough balls in the bottom (jackpot) bin, the elbow closes, it reopens as needed to keep the jackpot bin full. What I don't know is why there is a lever you can flip which holds that regulator open? If the parlor did a ball dump, as soon as the jackpot bin gets close to empty, the regulator would open automatically anyways.
The lever also has a small hook on it which looks like it could have been operated by a rod, although I don't think mine was ever connected to anything.
As an aside, I also discovered the small "rivet" on the front, with the hole in the middle, where a rod could be inserted which would activate a ball dump from the front of the machine. I understand in a Pachinko parlor the employees would be behind the machine, behind a whole wall of Pachinkos. So, under what circumstances would someone in the game playing area activate a ball dump? I was thinking there were other employees looking for people somehow cheating (how ever a person could do that) and would do a ball dump on that person? I dunno. very confused on why they wanted that feature.

Pictures show the normal position (auto feed) and then with that lever on the top elbow closed, keeping the regulator opened.

[Gilly]

all i can offer is

i sure love my multi speed dremel.. for that very reason

Reason being that it's not a POS?

[JACKSJE4]

Found out that the jackpot seesaw is BRASS so am having fun cleaning that up. Must have been just to make the machine more attractive in the jackpot area. It'll look nice when I am done. LOTS better already in this picture. Was it common to make this out of brass?

Yes. On the earlier machines (1940's - 1970) there were many parts made with brass. As machines became more mass produced, cast plastic and metal parts replaced the brass because it was probably cheaper and quicker to make.
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I also discovered the small "rivet" on the front, with the hole in the middle, where a rod could be inserted which would activate a ball dump from the front of the machine. I understand in a Pachinko parlor the employees would be behind the machine, behind a whole wall of Pachinkos. So, under what circumstances would someone in the game playing area activate a ball dump?

My guess is that some parlors were smaller and didn't have room for attendants to roam behind the machines. So the ball dump mechanism was added to allow the attendant to empty the machine before (or without) unlocking it and opening it up. Personally, I like this feature because I have my machines mounted in wall cabinets and sometimes need to drain the machines before opening them up to service them.

[Moparformances]

Reason being that it's not a POS?

not exactly



just like the ability to cut at higher speeds and more torque..

and polish at slower speeds..

and of course the POS factor

[Gilly]

Went out and spent MORE money on a "real" Dremel, so on to more stuff.

Question coming up about the electrics. I bought the download from Billy for a diagram to go on.
Diagram on this shows only 2 switches. The one that's missing is the one for the extra jackpot "waiting" area. It lights up a light near this extra lane. Anyone have a good schematic for this machine?
Gilly

[mudfud]

it's pretty simple if you just follow the wires around. my video of the seashells (mentioned on page 1) should trace around the circuits for you. many times the reserve ball circuit has been cut off, so I had to rewire that.

just 3 indepent circuits in parallel, with the switch closing for ball empty, reserve ball or jackpot.

PM me if that's not clear. have fun!

[Gilly]

I sent you a PM in regards to what triggers the reserve ball leaf switch, kind of confused on it, although the switch does turn on the light.

For everyone else, this was so easy, man am I lucky.
The original fuse box had that melted spot, so I got a really nice matching one from Billy, same exact fusebox.
The power (red) wires both solder to the bottom of one of the fuse holder clips. I could slip out that fuse clip and install it in to the new fusebox, so saved me some soldering right there.
All I really had to do was solder up the other red wire (which goes tot he "ball tray empty" light, then solder in the "ball tray empty" light socket. That was IT! Everything is working! Well, I did replace the ball tray empty bulb and the rubber grommet that hold the socket in place. So the original wiring is still in place and stapled down just like original. (I get "in" to originality). I cleaned up the leaf spring contacts, the jackpot leaf switch also needed some serious rebending, but it works! Had all 3 lights working in about an hour.
Gilly

[JACKSJE4]

Sounds like someone is having WAAAAAAYYY too much fun with the restoration. I suspect there will be another machine restoration after this one is complete.