Olympia Pachislo - Won't switch out of odds mode

[Mitchell]

These buttons are frustrating!

I've narrowed it down to the small switch "chip" inside the push button device that seems to be closing the circuit. But how can this be on all 5 buttons?! There's got to be something i'm missing.

To engage the spin CN2 4 5 6 and 9 must be disconnected. Any single one of these attached will not allow it to spin.

I just cant imagine the lines are messed up in all 5 of these.

Any ideas?! before i cut any more lines up for testing!

[new in town]

Can you post Pic's of the CN Connectors on that Board with the Plugs hooked up and tell us which switch (Reel Stop, Spin knob, Max bet, Token Acceptor ECT), is connected to each CN Connector?

[alstonj1]

sounds to me like your switches are shorted if they were spiked sometime in the past it would be possible they are shorted but i doubt it . most likely the sensor is dirty inside the push button . you might want to try opening one up if possible and see if they got wet or something got inside the optical switch . it only takes a little dust bunny to activate the switch . you should be able to disconnect the switches then trigger a spin and short each hold button at the pins on the door to stop it .that would confirm the wiring and boards are good . as for replacing the buttons you'd have to show the members what yours look like im sure some one might have an old olympia they've given up on and made a video game out of. if not im sure you can use cherry master switches in a pinch to replace them since you know the switching needed. :

[compirate]

I didn't think the switches were actual mechanical switches, but photo interrupters? Would cause a problem if 'spiked'.

[alstonj1]

depending on the age of the machine some did use micros but i believe this uses optical switching to pull high or low .This can be simulated as with the slot arm mod if you know the method of switching needed pulling the switch leg high or low .In this case he's already figured that out . as for the optical switches being spiked yes it can be done if your not sure of what your doing pulling a great amount of current through the switch on the load side (b+) to say ground (b-) could blow the switch either open or closed . The problem here is that so many switches are involved the chances aren't good that so many would go at once. being that his brother was trying to do a credit mod by shorting pins it would be likely that he blew this switch but it shouldn't have effected others unless a fuse was blown but that wouldn't work intermittently :smoking:

[new in town]

Hi

CN5 - Stop 1
CN6 - Stop 2
CN9 - Stop 3

In you Picture (Duh, which I just Found) there are three Plugs that look like they are loomed together that are going to CN 4, 5 and 6. The one plug connected to CN 9 - Stop 3, looks like it is traveling off to the left side of the Door through a hole just above the Token acceptor.

Are the wires from the three Stop Buttons (three individual sets) meaning one set of three wires from each Stop Button connected directly to CN 5, 6 and 9 or is the wiring from each of the the Stop Buttons going to a PC Board and then from the PC board to CN 5, 6 and 9?

Either way it is follow the three sets of wires. If directly out of each Stop Button Follow each set of wires and ensure that the Stop Button Wiring (as you look at them from the front of the door) connect as follows. :

The left Stop Button wiring is going to CN5
The middle Stop Button wiring is going to CN6
The Right Stop Button wining is going to CN9

If the wiring goes from the Stop Buttons to a PC Board then back out, Follow the three sets of wires out of that PC Board and again check to see if they are going to CN 5, 6 and 9.

Can anyone out there read the writing above CN 10, 2,3 and 4? The writing for CN10 is partially blocked.

The way I look at you Picture :

http://www.mccannnetwork.com/images/DSC02852.JPG

It looks like CN9 and CN4 might be swapped. Being the Plug connect to CN9 is running to the far left of the door that Plug may be for a different sensor and not the Stop - 3

I could be wrong but it's just a suggestion.

The problem here is that All the Plugs CN 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9 and 10 are not Murphy Proof and can be Miss connected.

[Mitchell]

I definetly know the CN plugs are correctly connected to where they should go.

CN2 - Cancel button
CN3 - Spin knob
CN4 - top button i believe to bet?
CN5 - stop 1 -aka left button
CN6 - stop 2 -aka center button
CN7 - two grey wires that power the coin switch reject
CN8 - 4 wires going to the coin counter/read sensor
CN9 - stop 3 - aka right button
CN10 - 3 wires going to the door lock switch, think its used for reset, but dont think it works!
CN11 - 2 wires connect to the speaker, works fine!
CN12 - bottom flourescent light
CN13 - top flourescent light

Anyone know what the PS1 black button does? it's a push button switch, but dont seem to know what it effects...


I have added some pictures to the mccannnetwork.com/images link
pictures number 2965 through 2969 are of the sensor that is inside of the push button switches.

I have narrowed it down to this switch being the culprit, but im not sure what to do next with them. My only guess is that they need to all be replaced and then abruptly stepped on!

[alstonj1]

this is a typical optical switch one side is an infered led the other is a receptor that does the actual switching . there are two types one is on all the time till interupped then it opens the other does the opposite.are there any part numbers on the led or receptor .if so put those into google and see if you can track down replacements to solder in . The other option is to use cherrymaster switches in there place since you know the switching needed .

[Mitchell]

i found a site twistedquarter.com that has alot of switches and buttons but i'm not sure which one would work. Any idea which one i could try first from the site?

here is a link to their site for microswitches!

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index....dex&cPath=4_47

[Mitchell]

I purchased 8 cherry switches that look like they'll do the trick (8 so i have spares i should only need 5)

Hopefully those will wire in fine and get all the buttons working properly

Next thing to do is replacing the coin counting sensor. I will take detailed images and information on it tonight!

Almost there!

[alstonj1]

if you where able to stop each reel by shorting the pins at the door then the cherry master switches will work the same way .hopefully there the same dimensions and theres clearance in the back for them to mount . the coin sensor is another matter entirely .
______________________________________________________
careful when you get them if you got the lighted ones i believe their 12 volt bulbs in them .what voltage did you read at the red and black pins ?

[Mitchell]

I will check the voltage tonight, probably something I should have checked, but clearly my electronics skills are beginner

[alstonj1]

the bulbs should be replaceable and you should be able to find 24 volt bulbs if need be.

[Mitchell]

I'm still waiting for the new switches to arrive!

In the meantime I have a new slot machine project!

I know this isn't the right forum for their discussion but I can't seem to find one for the machine.

I picked up a Bally's ProSeries 1994 model "Silver and Gold" machine for really cheap, because it's not working.

does anyone know about these, or know of a forum for resources for it?
I have the manual for it which has great detail about it's operations and everything. But the issue with it seems to be one of power supply.

When I turn it on, the hopper gets power, the speaker will hum and one flourescent light clicks on.

Could it be part of the power supply? It also has 4 breaker switches, but im not sure if they have fuses inside to be checked or not.

I'd appreciate the feedback, thank you!!

Mitchell

[Moparformances]

I'm still waiting for the new switches to arrive!

In the meantime I have a new slot machine project!

I know this isn't the right forum for their discussion but I can't seem to find one for the machine.

I picked up a Bally's ProSeries 1994 model "Silver and Gold" machine for really cheap, because it's not working.

does anyone know about these, or know of a forum for resources for it?
I have the manual for it which has great detail about it's operations and everything. But the issue with it seems to be one of power supply.

When I turn it on, the hopper gets power, the speaker will hum and one flourescent light clicks on.

Could it be part of the power supply? It also has 4 breaker switches, but im not sure if they have fuses inside to be checked or not.

I'd appreciate the feedback, thank you!!

Mitchell

we have a slot forum as well

kinda a one stop shot

Member Compirate helped me out with a great link to another form that was lots of help... In the end i had to ship my boards out to get repaired..

hear is a link to my thread and theres a link to the other form site in it

http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/slot...lp-please.html

ya might try a post in both.. i know we have a member or two that are really slot savy...

and for goodness sakes wheres the pics

[Mitchell]

Oh my Awesome!! I will start a thread with pictures in a few minutes!

So happy!

[alstonj1]

that problems out of my realm talk to Chris Dice he's the pro for those machines . Good luck ...