Bought my first Pachinko machine can you help identify?

[spauldingd]

Hello everyone, I just brought home my first pachinko machine that I got off E-bay. I spent a long evening cleaning and fiddling. There was dust, spiderwebs and bugs throughout the machine but I have that all cleaned up and the lights and switches working. I have 1000 balls on the way (also on E-bay) and think that it should work pretty well once I get it loaded with balls.

I was curious if anyone could help identify perhaps what year or model name my machine is? I found a reference site that shows the labels and how to decode them, but the labels on mine don't look much like the site. It is a Sankyo and perhaps the distinctive thing about it is the frog that turns in the center.

I really appreciate all the great information I have found here. I wouldn't have gone into this if there wasn't such a fine resource available for us newbies. Here is the auction with pictures:

Vintage Sankyo Pachinko Pinball Machine Wall Mount - eBay (item 270356532102 end time Mar-17-09 1616 PDT)

Thanks,
Dave in Des Moines

[Chrisdice]

Welcome to Pachitalk!!!

[Youngjedi]

Welcome to pachitalk and THE DARK SIDE!!!


Someone will chime in soon with the identity of your new machine.

Looks Great!!

[hanabi]

I believe most of the Vintage Pachinkos didn't have specific names as such but I'm sure a few of our members will be able to assist

In order to date the machine, you will need to take a really clear close up pic of the labels, we have members here that are good at dating them


Welcome to PachiTalk!!






actually the frog in the centre of yours looks like the frog in this one, although parts have been found to be used on different aged pachinkos and sometimes even different manufacturers...

Vintage Pachinko Museum - 065 Pachinko Machine

[wrkey]

Welcome to PachiTalk Spaulding!

Hanabi is right as there are very few vintage machines that have true 'given' names by the manufacture. Take a few photos if you can, one of the full front, one close up of just the play cell and then at least one of the back mechanicals. When you take the photos you'll find it easier to remove the plexi and/or glass from the door before you photograph to prevent 'flash back'.

Use the 'advanced mode' on reply to this thread and then use the "Manage Attachments" to upload the photos in this thread. Once you get through all of this, you'll be surprised at how many responses you'll get and the helpful advice.

Again, welcome to the addiction!

[Tarnish]

Here's how to check a date ...

Vintage Pachinko - FAQ Age, Make, Model

Welcome to the addiction.

[hanabi]

Here's how to check a date ...

Vintage Pachinko - FAQ Age, Make, Model

Welcome to the addiction.

I may be wrong, sometimes I am , but i think we have a few slight discrepancies between our dating and those of Vintage pachinkos??

I'm sure when I was dating my own I got different results from each??

if I am wrong, please put me right fellow PT'ers

if I can locate our own Threads regarding dating, I will post them

[spauldingd]

Hanabi is correct, that is my frog on that 1973 machine. My playfield is slightly different, and the rear of the machine is just slightly different, but very very close.

[spauldingd]

I've taken a few pix. Its a bit tore down at present for cleaning, so several pieces are not seen, but all labels and playfield are shown.

Dave in Des Moines

[Moparformances]

u will need to post a better pic of the expiration stickers to get a better date.. this is the date that the machine was to be pulled from use from a given parlor.. some say that they were put into use for 18 months some say a year and i have heard up to 3 years as well.. depends on who u talk to or what site your reading.. when i posed all the pics of my vintage i just used the date on the sticker then u can do your own math..

nice looking Sankyo machine and looking forward to more pictures

Welcome to PachiTalk

[wrkey]

Actually, my squinty eyes could pick out the date of 51/3 on the center sticker. 1925 + 51 = 1976 - 3 = 1973 model. It appears to be a Type B mechanics.

Very clean machine and play cell looks great! Nice machine and good luck with the restoration!
______________________________________________________
BTW, I always assume the 3 year expiration. Therefore, my calc may be wrong if my expiration assumption is wrong.

[ShockSystem]

Welcome, Spaulding and Tarnish!

Enjoy your new machine - It looks great!

- Shock

[compirate]

That first label is an inspection label, looks like the stamps have worn off.

[spauldingd]

My pictures were much larger than what is shown. I've zoomed in here on the label. I believe 51 and 3 are shown which sounds like a 1973 which also matches the frog machine link from earlier. Very cool.

I have a quick question. When playing, should the playfield be totally vertical, or should it lean back just slightly. The reason I ask is that I mounted some boards to the bottom of mine so it can stand up on the floor or up on my fireplace landing. But after making sure the boards were on perfectly centered and square I notice the machine is tilting just slightly backward. I can probably correct this with some padding I was going to add below the board (to prevent scratches) maybe just use a thicker pad in back compared to in front but I was just wondering if it was supposed to lean slightly back.

[wrkey]

It it my understanding from some of the installation documentation I have seen, the machine should be tilted backwards 2 degrees. This keeps the balls away from the front glass/plexi and not so much as to force them against the playing cell.

IMHO, this also facilitates the pin positioning. In all cases, in order to "tighten" or "loosen" the pocket entry, you are beding the pins away from each other. The result has the 'odds' of the ball entering the modified pocket based on how far away from the playing cell it is when it reaches the entry point. Thus if the cell was tilted to far back, you would have to bend the pins a great deal to loosen it. Conversely if the tilt was at a 90 degree vertical or had a forward tilt, the spread in the pins would the be 'too loose' because the balls are falling farther away from the cell and out where the maximum spread on the pins are. Keep in mind that the clearance on the ball and pin that determines the odds is at the CENTER of the ball.

I try to mount all my machines with a 2degree back tilt and I have the coolest magnetic degree level that my wife got me. I've attached a photo of a similiar on I found on the net. You stick this puppy on anything magnetic (or hold it there) and the needle indicates the degree of vertical or horizonal. Makes setting not plumb verticles very simple!

I also have a magnetic pick up too that I stick a ball to in order to test the clearances. Since the pins are brass the magnet isn't attracted and when I'm done, I just drop the ball back into the win hopper!

[spauldingd]

Thank you for taking the time for such a great response. I think mine might be a tad more than 2 degrees but until I get some balls I can't say how it plays.

Do most people mount their machines on/in a wall? I saw a place selling boards to use as feet and went that route with some leftover wood finish trim I had. It looks o.k. but obviously makes it sit low to the ground which will be fine for my enthusiastic 9-year-old, but not so good for myself.

[Youngjedi]

My machines are in there cabinets with a slight tilt backward. The only reason I did this was so I wouldn't hear the balls tapping the glass as much. Like Rusty Key said...2 degrees is about right.

It looks like someone put out their cigarette on your label.

Enjoy!!!

[Sid]

the feet mounted ones are best put on stands/tables

makes it a little easier for adults

[compirate]

nail bending isn't as much how open the pocket is as where you make the ball go. The pocket can be wide open, but if the nails leading to it are bent properly, the ball goes elswhere. Down they bounce less, up more. A little in one direction can make it go farther in that direction or slow it down in that direction based on how the pins above it are bent. It's a science that people go to school for in Japan, paying a lot of money for the knowledge (considering there are less nails now - imagine what it took to be a nail bender in the good ol days!)

I thought about that angle guage (they have it on sale at Harbour freight every now and then), but I want better accuracy than that, so I want this one. Husky made a nice one built into a 24" box level, just couldn't afford it at the time.

[Tarnish]

Since the subject has drifted to nail bending ... Are there any tools that provide a more accurate method of bending than futzing with pliers and prayers ? Also, where would I get extra nails if I bent one too far and wanted to replace it or end up buying a pachinko machine that's missing nails ?

And since I went this far, does anyone have a couple Comet II machines they'd be willing to sell me for use as a parts machine ? I'll pay $15-$25 per machine and shipping costs.

I'm looking for one or two to mess around a bit with ... Anyone close by to Murfreesboro, TN 37128-2714

Eventually, I'd love to be able to dissect and recombine a couple deceased ones and Frankenstein a whole new machine. That's prolly the best way for me to safely learn the ins and outs of 'em.