New project - Operator board

[wrkey]

Here's my next project. Since I want to 'replicate' a Pachinko parlour and I wanted a common source of power for my vintage machine lights, I came up with this design.

I'm still indecisive about the voltage as I want it to have a dual purpose, running the lights and any other 'motorized' or standard light set I may want to add in the future. I'm thinking 6v or 12v.

The way I envison this is that there will be a 'feeder cable' of hot and negative from the transformer across the backs of the machine cabinets and each machine will get it's feed at it's location. Then there will be one thin wire running back from the hopper empty ground switch to the specific light for that machine in the operator board 'box'. This reduces the amount of wires that need to be ran and prevents a possible short with the H.E. wire being the grounded side. Those old pachinko designers really thought this stuff out!

The switched 110v outlet is there to run my KeyChinko sign and any other common device I want to run when the 'parlour' is open for business.

I'll probably start on this some time next week ... if I can find time around my other 'important projects'.

[drcrippen324]

good thinking batman but you will have to runa wire from each switch back to the light bord to ake abulb come on whenthe hopper is empty ie

a continuouse ground to theswitches but one per switch back to the bord

[wrkey]

Yes, DR,you are exactly right.. .That's what the "Hopper Empty Ground Connection" is for each machine. Am I missing something? Look at my photo below... as it shows the design with a two machine set up. This is how I envsion as they way it was done in the Parlours.

Thanks for your input!

[ShockSystem]

Hey there,

If you are using incandescent bulbs and motorized items you will need a very stout power supply depending on the amount of machines in the daisy chain. I found a vendor that has very good prices on surplus adjustable voltage supplies with high current output (over 5 amps). I'm looking at a 9 volt system to stay consistent with "original" bulbs and most of the modernized / custom circuit designs I have are based on 9v batteries - However a large amount of "pre made" automotive stuff is available, so 12v would be a good route.

I'll post a link to the power supplies once I find them again. I bought my last switching power supply (10 amp - Voltage adjustable) from HSC electronics for about $20 - and I made an enclosure and cooling fan for $10. You could use a surplus old computer switching supply usually available for free (people throw out old computers all the time) if you want to go the 12v route. Computer supplies also have a 5v output as well and built in fans. I have also use this type of supply on my bench many times. If you need 9v you can still use the "free" computer supply with a simple $1.00 - 7809 +9v voltage regulator attached, giving you a solid (but non adjustable) 9v with a good current output.

- Shock

[wrkey]

Hey Shock,

Thanks for the advice! I just happen to have an old PC that I can pull the power supply out of! I would also like to stay with 9v as the original was, however, I can't find a good supplier for 9v screw type bulbs. If I could, I'd buy about 50 of them!

That being said, I may opt for the 12v solution. I looked at RatShack online and it appears that the 12v bulbs draw 750ma while the 6v bulbs dray 1000ma. So the 12s would be just as bright (if not brighter) and would require less amps. I also think that a 12v would be more standard for motors and other lights.

I guess I need to pull that power supply and see what I can get off it.

Thanks again for the advice!

[compirate]

Could always change over the incandescent for LED?

[mudfud]

hey rusty, no offense, but why do you need an operator board when you've got low ball indicator lights on the machines already? I kinda thought the operator boards were for huge parlors where it might be hard to keep track of all the machines (and the number of times you had to refill a particular machine would be worth keeping track of)

if you just want to, to show you can, I understand that, and why not change most of the bulbs to LED so you won't have to worry about your transformer size?

I'm having grandiose plans of building in a ball recirculating system into the game room (that the wife doesn't even know is going to be part of the pantry remodel...). then, I wouldn't need the low tray indicators at all, right?

love your detailed posts.

chewy

[compirate]

I think it's a 'cause I can' thing

Then you need a tote board that keeps track of all the wins per machine.

[wrkey]

I think it's a 'cause I can' thing

Then you need a tote board that keeps track of all the wins per machine.

Well.. yeah... Compirate is right.

Actually, it's two fold, one to demonstrate how they 'used to work' originally and since I wanted to have only 1 transformer for all the machines I would need a location to put that transformer. The more I thought about it, the more 'cool' it sounded to have the full 'operator' board set up.

[compirate]

From what I've seen, there's an extra set of lights above the machine (like a battle counter without the counter) that light for wins and errors and an end of aisle light that indicates that a machine in the aisle is having a problem.

Find a nice line drawing of a vintage machine and put that on the operator board to indicate which machine is erroring (a word?). Either the entire 'machine' lights up or an indicator above it does. Number your machines - 001 002 003...

[wrkey]

Yeah I was looking at RatShack today at the indicator lights that I could use. I think I will be going with the 'numbered' method. I didn't think about putting the numbers above the machines, but I like that idea!

Always get great ideas here!

Has anyone ever found a supplier for 9v screw in bulbs? I'd like to buy about 20 to 30 of them!

[compirate]

are 12's hard to find? You've got a pretty good 12v line in a atx computer supply.

[compirate]

Have you done a search for indicator yet? Some interesting things like:

Replacement indicator light Jewels For Fender amps (5) - eBay (item 120373911762 end time Apr-05-09 21:07:24 PDT)
I know they're just lenses, but they look so retro!

And if you go with 12V for the whole system, LED turn signal and other items might make cool above machine lights to indicate wins/errors

eBay Motors: AT 6×3 LED Flashing Indicator Strobe Lights White Bulbs (item 400037910925 end time Mar-21-09 13:20:45 PDT)

[Moparformances]

the jewel lights would make excellent indicator lights... if that's the style your looking for

[compirate]

Lamp Assemblies | AllElectronics.com

[takethecastle57]

Here's my next project. Since I want to 'replicate' a Pachinko parlour and I wanted a common source of power for my vintage machine lights, I came up with this design.

I'm still indecisive about the voltage as I want it to have a dual purpose, running the lights and any other 'motorized' or standard light set I may want to add in the future. I'm thinking 6v or 12v.

The way I envison this is that there will be a 'feeder cable' of hot and negative from the transformer across the backs of the machine cabinets and each machine will get it's feed at it's location. Then there will be one thin wire running back from the hopper empty ground switch to the specific light for that machine in the operator board 'box'. This reduces the amount of wires that need to be ran and prevents a possible short with the H.E. wire being the grounded side. Those old pachinko designers really thought this stuff out!

The switched 110v outlet is there to run my KeyChinko sign and any other common device I want to run when the 'parlour' is open for business.

I'll probably start on this some time next week ... if I can find time around my other 'important projects'.

It looks like Star Trek TOS Scotty's engineering panel !