Unlocking a Nishijin Power Flash-Flush.

[johnnynormal510]

I have just ahold of my Dads Vintage PowerFlash-Flush.

It has been around the world several times, and has spent a few years in the Philippines... Long lineage, but now its finally mine. It need alot of prettying up, but Mechanically and electrically its in great condition!

I believe someone has modified the locks, because there is no key, and the machine opens freely.

Two EASY questions...

Q: What does the key lock on the front of the machine open?

Q: How do i open the front plexiglass windows on the front of the machine?

Thanks!

[mudfud]

wow. that's just like mine and rusty's!

the lock allowed the machine to swing forward on the frame out of the wall. if you don't mount it in the wall, you don't need to worry about it

there is a lever on each side in the back

the one behind the lock side will unlock the front frame from the rear.

the lever behind the left side (facing the front of the machine) will unlock the window.

if you look back there, it should be obvious which lever to push upward. they can be a bit stuck if it's been awhile. this is one place i'll use wd 40 on.

do post more pix and questions as you clean it up and get her working!

[wrkey]

Welcome to PachiTalk Johnny!

You have a great looking machine there! It's play field is in better condition than mine! Becareful with the WD-40 that you don't get it in the ball tracks. Also, in case you haven't read it or had experience with cleaning/restoring, do not use soap and water on the play field as it can ruin the lamenant! The lock on my machine was 'stripped' as well and I just use a 'stubby screwdriver' to lock and unlock (mines in a custom cabinet).

Another bit of advice about these PowerFlash machines: The mechanical back pieces are done in two sections. Once you open the main section, you'll the screw/bushing in the middle on the right side about a quarter from the top. By loosening and sliding this bolt towards the outside you will release the back section. However, ther is also two "Slider" pieces at the bottom where the balls exit to the back of the machine. These two sliders need to be moved FIRST then the bolt/bushing at the top top open the section with out risk of breaking the plastic.

Good luck on the restoration and again WELCOME!

[johnnynormal510]

Thanks, Berkeley! I'm an East Bay Man myself! San Leandro Actually!

I didnt know what kind of machine I had until I saw YOUR pictures. I'm jealous of your machine. Its in wonderful condition!

When I was losing, I seem to remember my dad opening the FRONT of the machine to add an extra ball in the King for me. How do you open the plexiglass window?

Also, Before i start cleaning it thoroughly, let me confirm something.

Is it OK to use WD40 to clean the machine's internal workings?
Is it OK to use WD40 to clean the Balls?

Thanks! My Dads Pachinko Machine is priceless to me, so i dont want to make any mistakes.

[luckydog]

CLR or Dawn is best to clean the balls.

[JACKSJE4]

Congrats on your machine!! It's a beauty.

I have restored many vintage pachinkos and I personally would never use WD40 on any part of the machine that the balls would touch. There are so many other products that work well and do not leave any oily residue that can attract future dust and debris. I would recommend spending some time searching this site for the many discussion threads on cleaning techniques and rust removal that others have posted, and read them thoroughly before you decide about which methods and products would work best for your machine. There are pros and cons to each method, but after reading several I think you will know which one is best for you.

You belong to a great group of fellow addicts here who are all knowledgable and eager to help, and would love to see frequent progress reports with pictures as you restore your Power Flush!!

Welcome!!

[johnnynormal510]

Another addict is born.

There i was minding my own business, not bothering anyone... browsing Craigslist, looking for some new chrome for my Flush... And there i find another vintage Nishijin for sale... Cheap... One Owner... Working... Always kept indoors... 3 More hours till this baby is mine...
Still looking for chome...

Anyways, once i figured out how to open the playfield door (thanks pachinkoman), i found that my playfield was in beautiful condition, and that i had two pieces of glass in the front of the machine. The inside was glass, and the outside was cheap plastic.
Once i removed the dirty plastic, the beauty really came out.

ALL my sonenoids work fine, Same go for the lights.

I cant believe this thing sat on a boat in the philipines, then in a garage in oregon... FOR 15 YEARS... and no-one got excited about it!

THANKS DAD!

[FTKServices]

Congrats on the machine. It's a very good looking one.

[Meathead]

That thing will really pop once you remove the rust! It's not a hard task at all. Be sure to search the threads for advice, you'll find everything you need here.

I've replaced every piece of plastic in my machines with glass. It's not too expensive at all. Make sure they dress the edges and nip off the corners if you do it.

[wrkey]

Here's what I did for all my machines. I went to Lowe's with the piece of plexi that came with the machine (that was usually scratched or cracked). I had them cut a piece of the mid-grade plexi (not lexan) and a glass panel of the same size. I then put the plexi in slot closest to the playing field and the glass on the outside. The plexi is a bit cheaper than the glass and it is quieter when the balls bounce off of it than the glass is. By have both pieces, it (to me) makes the machine more classy, more like it was originally designed and reduces the noise some. All you may need is a new piece of plexi if the glass you have is good.

You know... before long your gonna be adding an extra lamp behind the wings too!
______________________________________________________
Oh... great photo on the stickers. You machine has the year 50 and month of 6 like mine does. That makes it a 1972 model ... I think.

[mudfud]

I totally agree on avoiding the WD 40 on any area that comes in contact with the balls. I was scrubbing grease out of the ball tracks for hours b/c the guy before me had lubed the balls on my sophia B with WD40.

quick summary of my recent preferences

1) clean balls in hot soapy water (joy works well for me), rinse and strain in strainer, dry with thick towels
2) clean cell face with Q tips, or hemostat and small piece of T shirt, with 409 or windex
3) clean plastic pieces on the back with hot soapy water (some people use the dishwasher - NO dry cycle) and rags or scotchbrite
4) clean tin parts with scotchbrite
5) clean the channels and tubes that I don't disassemble by running a piece of sponge or T shirt on a wire to clean (some people take everything down)
6) clean/polish chrome frame with 00 steel wool, final polish with never dull wadding
7) repaint raised silver areas with sakura paint pen, thick tip (from craft stores)
8) polish pins (my weak area) with scotchbrite for dull finish, with dremel for high brass

yes, this becomes quite the addiction. since November, I have gone from 1 machine that my family owned in the 70's to 8 machines, with one modern (star wars)... and now I find out my sister has a pachislo that i'm going to go check out in march...

gotta stop...tomorrow...just one more

[compirate]

I don't know of any pachinko that has any lubrication anywhere. They're made to work without it (very dusty conditions in the back).

I love this thread, the google ad at the top is for toilets! (Flush - toilets)

[takethecastle57]

This is the best cleaning /polishing cloth EVER

Miracle Polishing And Cleaning Cloth . The original Miracle Cloth which has proven to out clean and polish any other product.

[JACKSJE4]

Wow! Looks like a great product, but I don't see Pachinko machines mentioned in the list of uses.

I'm going to order one anyway to try it out.

Thanks for sharing!!!