Another HE error

[Ballymoss]

Hi All,

Another boring HE error (from England) My first Pachi as well.

Have recently taken on this machine (which will not payout- HE) The guy I bought it from sold it me for this reason! He had gone deaf from listening to the error code warning tone !

Some detail, have moved the U.K. 240v / 24v transformer from inside cabinet to external in case of coil magnetic field upset. Still HE on any win over 50 or dump attempt. Coin acceptor solenoid throws OK when credit dump button hit.Steady 28.4v output from transformer.

Have stripped, lubed, cleaned, polished hopper, microswitch eyes (both red leds numbered 1 and 2) light on control panel when break arm blocks micro. Still HE. Motor runs fine with separate 15 volts supply.

Reseated most of the terminal connector blocks, still HE. Don't want to do any more of these unless specific indication, always chance of upsetting already good seats. The machine is dry with no visible oxidation anywhere on front and side boards so far as I can see.

Machine otherwise operates very well with quiet reels and ace build quality, a tribute to Japan for sure !

Have not been able to find identical or even roughly similar pic of control panel either. I have no camera, so best would be a scanned hand draw effort of mine if needed.

Would very much appreciate any help possible !

Steve

[alstonj1]

when the machine pays out smaller pots then 50 do you get the he error ? from the sound of it you've done a lot of trouble shooting already .Good for you most people wouldn't have even attempted this . if the smaller pots are OK then there is only a few possibilities the mother board isn't getting the signal do to a loose connection or the motor isn't turning fast enough to deliver the tokens in a timely manner . the third possibility is that the sensor on the hopper is seeing to much ambient light (possibly from the belly glass light ) if this is happening it will confuse the machine into thinking the hopper is empty since it doesn't see a light change . cover the area around the sensor with card board or tin foil (someone may have had a problem in the past and forgot a cover ) and remove the bulb in the belly glass and see if it goes away . good luck

[Ballymoss]

when the machine pays out smaller pots then 50 do you get the he error ? from the sound of it you've done a lot of trouble shooting already .Good for you most people wouldn't have even attempted this . if the smaller pots are OK then there is only a few possibilities the mother board isn't getting the signal do to a loose connection or the motor isn't turning fast enough to deliver the tokens in a timely manner . the third possibility is that the sensor on the hopper is seeing to much ambient light (possibly from the belly glass light ) if this is happening it will confuse the machine into thinking the hopper is empty since it doesn't see a light change . cover the area around the sensor with card board or tin foil (someone may have had a problem in the past and forgot a cover ) and remove the bulb in the belly glass and see if it goes away . good luck

Many thanks Jeff,
Still He errors on small and 50 wins after masking job with both front light disconnected.
The hopper motor I cannot figure how to test just yet, as once the machine is in He error status I am not sure there will be any current to measure ( I will work on this, some proof needed for motor supply in win / dump mode)
I notice that there is just one ribbon cable exiting from what I think is the hopper board, the other three are empty at the top, wonder if all three are for parlour hook-up ?
Have remade all terminal block connectors now, but that is no guarantee that they are good! Will get back after motor test devised and carried out. I am not looking forward to a pc board problem with my first Pachi and no pcb skills, but so be it. Steve

[alstonj1]

when you try to cash out does the hopper turn at all ? do any tokens come out at all ?

[alstonj1]

if not check all the fuse holders on your power supply one might be blown .some have circuit breakers others have fuses inside the power supply you might have to open it up to access them just make sure all power is off and the machine is unplugged before opening it .

[musky]

Could the sensor be bad?

[alstonj1]

QUOTE "Have stripped, lubed, cleaned, polished hopper, microswitch eyes (both red leds numbered 1 and 2) light on control panel when break arm blocks micro. Still HE. Motor runs fine with separate 15 volts supply."

The thought had crossed my mind but i don't think so since hes getting the led to light by moving the arm on the hopper . from the sounds of it the hopper isn't turning on .He tried the hopper with a separate power source and it runs but he hasn't said if it turns when it trys to pay out .If it did i wouldnt see a need to try an external supply . if theres no power at the hopper then theres a few reasons why it wouldnt work most of which is a fuse ,second the driver on the mother board is bad or on some hoppers theres a relay that turns the motor on if its stuck or defective the hopper will just sit there . then theres the usual broken wires and plugs to deal with.

[Ballymoss]

The hopper sensor lights led no 2 on control panel in the rest position (arm blocking light path) led no 1 lights when I move spring loaded arm to block other sensor. If I change the sensor terminals Hp errors (hopper pay ?) instead of He. One set has a trace, so they are back where they were when I took machine over, not to say someone else has been trying different things !! Cheers, Steve

[alstonj1]

But does the hopper move at all when trying to pay out ??? if not check the fuses as above.

[Ballymoss]

All fuses including internal power cabinet OK, no circuit breaker evident.On each cash out attempt I hear the incoming coin solenoid click, no movement at all from hopper or motor, and providing I have the terminals for motor circuit with good connection to temporary voltmeter, there is not even a flicker on voltmeter at any win or cash in attempt, just He

[alstonj1]

then the problem is not the hopper but that the hopper isnt getting any voltage to it . does this hopper have a relay on it ? might be underneath the hopper in the bottom of its base.or do the wires from the motor just got a molex plug that plugs in to the machine? pictures would be helpful if you can borrow somebodies camera .

[Ballymoss]

No sign of a relay. Takaden hopper with JUKI DC 24v label sticker. Total wiring is an 8 terminal block (the two sensors three wires each and two for motor) pushed straight into top of machine control panel box.
Meanwhile downloaded original eBay listing 300279171103 (Hopper photo) but have not yet found facility to send with this message..

[alstonj1]

i looked at the ebay listing .first off there isn't a switch to turn off the hopper from paying that's just bs . there is a switch on the front that allows you to store up to 50 credits before paying out but thats it everything above 50 is payed out via the hopper . in the other position you have to physically put in 3 tokens each spin it wont store credits at all .the fact that your getting the error is proof of that fact . its telling you its empty cause it doesnt sence any token movement out of the hopper . thats because the hopper isnt turning because its not getting any voltage to the motor the sensors are working as you were able to see the leds light when you toggled the switch arm . so now you have to trace those two wires back through the machine and see where your loosing the feed for the hopper . most go back to the power supply and have a relay in the power supply triggered by the driver on the main board .or have the relay on the hopper .but from the message you just left you state they go straight up to the main board .Look again and follow thos two wires back into the machine use your meter on the back of the plugs to check voltage readings if you get back to the main board then it can only be the driver is dead and you need a main board .There isnt any closeup pictures of the inside of the machine so i cant tell if the machine had any wiring changed to make it tokenless if that the case they may have cut the line to the hopper to stop it from spinning in either case im blind to find out you have to look at your wiring harness for anything that looks like it may have been changed and taped off . good luck let me know what you find.

[Ballymoss]

Many thanks for you detailed reply. I should have said in a previous message that the 8 block lead from the hopper plugs directly into the top of the bottom left hand RESET control panel, not the board which I understand to be the motherboard at top of machine
Have attached jpeg sketch, but not too sure if it will be clear enough for you to see where I am at !!
The main panel inside the bottom left hand reset control panel area is a nightmare, even with backlighting to aid view. Anyway I have traced one line. This one line I have traced is within a 20 block molex, exiting the reset control panel, again from the top and then on into the motherboard at the top of the machine cabinet.
Before I even think about removing the motherboard to make a trace attempt, I need to know what the security type screws, lettered A B C D E F on the plastic panel covering the actual pc board, do ?? They are set at varying height levels and I can see through the plastic cover that they are not the screws which attach the complete assembly to the back face of the wooden cabinet. Should these require removal I will need to modify an electrical screwdriver to attempt removal.
Many thanks for all your time and troubles to attempt a troubleshoot on this one !!
The factory seals are still intact on the motherboard cover panel and processor inside also. Have checked all wire and ribbon runs on rest of machine wiring loom with no hint of a cut or hack, nor evidence of razor cut on pcb so far either.
Happy New Years Celebrations
Steve

[Ballymoss]

(Now with photo) Have checked all resistors on this pcb and found a fusible resistor R8 which is blown. It is top left of photo near the 8 block hopper connnection CN4 between the two resistors Q2 and Q3. Been Maplins but it is too burnt for identification. Any suggesion for the rating value of a replacement resistor is much appreciated !!

Many thanks, Steve

[alstonj1]

personally I don't know at this point your going to need to find someone with the same machine or see if you can get the power supply from stealth or another vendor . from what i can see there are a few of the same type resistors on the rest of the board are the values on those the same .designers have a tendency to use as much of the same component as possible cuts down on cost that way when you buy in bulk . .

[compirate]

Many thanks for you detailed reply. I should have said in a previous message that the 8 block lead from the hopper plugs directly into the top of the bottom left hand RESET control panel, not the board which I understand to be the motherboard at top of machine
Have attached jpeg sketch, but not too sure if it will be clear enough for you to see where I am at !!
The main panel inside the bottom left hand reset control panel area is a nightmare, even with backlighting to aid view. Anyway I have traced one line. This one line I have traced is within a 20 block molex, exiting the reset control panel, again from the top and then on into the motherboard at the top of the machine cabinet.
Before I even think about removing the motherboard to make a trace attempt, I need to know what the security type screws, lettered A B C D E F on the plastic panel covering the actual pc board, do ?? They are set at varying height levels and I can see through the plastic cover that they are not the screws which attach the complete assembly to the back face of the wooden cabinet. Should these require removal I will need to modify an electrical screwdriver to attempt removal.
Many thanks for all your time and troubles to attempt a troubleshoot on this one !!
The factory seals are still intact on the motherboard cover panel and processor inside also. Have checked all wire and ribbon runs on rest of machine wiring loom with no hint of a cut or hack, nor evidence of razor cut on pcb so far either.
Happy New Years Celebrations
Steve

Only one set of security screws will be screwed in (all the 'A's?), the remaining should be spares. You have to take a pair of snips and cut the plastic where it attaches to the case to remove them. In the parlors, the factory repair people put there initials on a panel located somewhere on the case and seal it back up with the next set of screws.

I've got a Gin Gin Maru made by Rodeo from 2002, I'll go check if it has the same boards so I can take pics for ya!

[Ballymoss]

Many thanks Compirate for security screw info.
A & B were screwed down, but no visible work or damage on mother board.
Have been fitting replacement resisitors values, working downwards from 220 ohm, then 150, then100, then 68 being the lowest available locally at Maplins. Still no payout when tested( He) Further specialist advice indicates 0.33 ohm resistor, which is now fitted and awaits time for reassemby into Gamera and yet another test !

Steve

[johntofva]

How did that work out for you Bally?

[Ballymoss]

0.33 ohm - toooo low !! ...I've blown some diodes as well. (Feb 2009)

July 09 ...Just bought an Aristocrat Kyojin No Hoshi (2002) in full working order. The hopper (Juki/Takeden) is identical and the two pcbs in power control compartment are 98 % the same.

The fusable resistor that was originally blown when I bought the Rodeo Gamera (2001) was unidentifiable due to burn damage.The corresponding component in the Kyojin reads 0.8 ohm

So I now need some diodes (unidentified also as yet) and correct resistor for next attempt. May well be even more damage.

Have Googled the net for Pachislo spares in the UK, nothing.

Steve