My first Jankyu and its restoration

[Sid]

well lets give Eddie back his thread.. there is serious stuff needed to be worked out.. so lets not mess it up for him

[garfield]

Eddie, I have been searching a bit on your lamps and I get different specs. They all seem to do 28V, but some are a mere 1.25W others have a spec that says 0.4 Amps, which amounts to 11W.

The "little"bulbs give a spec. of 1.3V .05Amps.

If you Overload these 2184 with 28V and they hold, you pump more than 1 amp through your circuit... That's based on U=IxR and P=UxI
.
Now, the so called "open collector circuit of the 74159 can handle about 40 ma which about covers the power the 2187 (.04A) bulbs need to shine.
In picture 5 i see a 74159 which is a 4 digit to 16 lines demux with open collector outputs. This chip translates a 4-bt binary into a single line output. Putting 16 lamps on its output pins would make them light up one after another when you count 0-15 (binary) on the inputs.

If this chip is responsible for your lamps, then putting the lil lamps in place of the 2187, must have fried the 74159 chip.

Then on the ribbon cables :

To measure them, i usually take two approaches.

1) I adapt the pins on my tester so they fit in the little holes, but mostly
2) I just make sure I have a PCB connector handy. I just plug the cable to the connector and measure the pins (that are normally soldered to the pcb)


About the burn marks on the display; I wouldn't worry about them, I still have a Casio calculator with one of these displays and as i recall the burn marks which this calculator also has, were allways there. These displays were common is the late 70ies, so that would give an indication on the age of the machine .

I was also looking at the NEC IC's beneath the connector.

The NEC A2003c is a transistor array, meant to connect the low power TTL logic to the outside world using high amps up to 300mA and voltages up to 35V) . There is a lot of TTL logic on the board, meant to do all sorts, its quite difficult to determine "what does what". , but I would be surprised if these chips are the reason of the faulty lights. All the NECs would have to burn out at the same time, highly unlikely.


Well, I hope this shines a few lights on your problem, good luck hunting!
______________________________________________________
Oh and by the way, If you want new ribbons, you can get them at any local electronics shop ... Or I can make you some just let me know

[Eddie]

Does anyone else agree? With Garfield?

I also think that there is a is a different source for power to the 6 tile lights.

I haven't been able to trace exactly where the power to them comes from but its not from the ribbon cable as you can see from the plug in the top of the board.
Below this board is another plug that is connected to a light sensor and then the wires go down to the top of the pocket board. This is all seen in pics 1+2

In pic 3 is the light box with the 3 bulbs in the left upper part of the cell. 2 Bulbs are for the low hopper and the other center one is for Game on? In front of these three bulbs is another light sensor? Pics 3 +4 show the box and then the light sensor lifted out.

The last pic is of another board that I think is a TEST? It doesnt sem to be a reset button.

Can any of these have to do with the lamps being out?

[dishpan]

I'm no expert but the second last picture of the NEC IC chip looks like it may have gotten to hot. The chip surface appears to have bubbled instead of being nice and smooth.

Is it just a trick of the photo?

Googling seems to indicate that this indeed a lamp driver chip.

http://zeta.octopart.com/NEC__UPA53C__0.pdf

[Eddie]

Im starting to get translations for all machines starting with the Junkyu

Here is the first of its translations.

Junkyu Machine

How to Play Plate-1.jpeg

How to play
-For one coin, you get 14 balls to shoot.
-Press the white button under the mah−jong tiles. Try to make one
of winning patterns within 10 times.
-When you finish your game, you may add another coin to continue. Or,
you may press due switch to get the coins you earned.
-If the ball enters to 'chakker (the pocket in the center),' it will
show 'ura-dora (a type of tile with points).'
-If you get 4 tiles of the same type, it will show ’kan-dora'.
-The maximum amount of awarded coins for one person is 10.

Left 2 buttons.jpeg

left button- 'thumogiri' (refer to mah-jong rule, it means the act of
taking one tile from the table, and abandon it.)
right button-'machipai' (in mah-jong, it refers the final tile needed
to finish the game)

Right side button.jpeg
'kan' (in mah-jong, it refers the act of showing your 4 matching tiles.)

Frog and Kanji.jpeg
'chuurenpoutou!' (in mah-jong, it refers a type of winning pattern.
It usually happens when you collect most of the continuous numbers in
the same type.)

Kanji.jpg
Please take your coins.


I guess I was right about 14 balls!

More translations to follow with this machine I will post about the other translations on a different thread.

Are their any other electronics gurus that want to put their ideas into the cause of Machines lamp Problems?

The more input the better.

I can always take more pics of certain areas if needed. Thx

[compirate]

Gees, no wonder they have so few nails and interaction now, too many buttons and decisions, my head hurts!

[musky]

Eddie, I think there is a lot of stock in what Garfield and Dishpan have said in regards to the lamp problem. I would try to find the lower current bulbs and replace the IC's. I'll check if I have the IC's if so. I'll give them to you.

[Eddie]

I'm no expert but the second last picture of the NEC IC chip looks like it may have gotten to hot. The chip surface appears to have bubbled instead of being nice and smooth.

Is it just a trick of the photo?

Googling seems to indicate that this indeed a lamp driver chip.

http://zeta.octopart.com/NEC__UPA53C__0.pdf

The Chip that you pointed out The PA53C is on the small board with the Optic sensor that faces the Low hopper lamps and the Game initiated? Lamp

They are the only 2 things on that particular board ( Chip and Optic Sensor)

Is it possible that the 3 Bulbs that face the optics board triggers the chip to power up the lights?

The LED for the coins won does work and it is in the middle of the lamp board. Does this chip drive that?

[Eddie]

I have been working on the Junkyu for days trying to determine the reason for the lights being out and have had a frustrating go at it BECAUSE IM NOT SCHOOLED IN ELCTRONICS.

I know that I am reaching in the dark looking at the PCB with eyes and a magnifying glass and nothing else for any possible chip burns or trace breaks that may be causing the troubles.
This is NOT the way to check a PCB board.

The components must be tested which is something I cannot do. ARGH!!!
Anyway finding nothing at all wrong on the board (At least visually) I decided to test for things that I could do. That is to check the continuity of the wire harness.

The 6 sequencing tile lamps seem to plug directly to the large power transformer at the bottom of the machine.

I thought it would be best to start with that harness, as there are only 9 wires to test. And they are not hidden, buried or connected to anything else. They would be an easy straightforward test
.
I began testing each end of the 9 wires and they were all good.

It then occurred to me that maybe they might not be getting power because there may be a chip or something else burned out that controls them within the transformer /power box?

I had nothing to lose so I opened it up. There are tons of wires inside and they are really packed tight

There are 4 large capacitators and what appears to be a few small transformers as well as a PCB!

Of course there was tons of dust and dirt (Not Good as it can lead to overheating)

On the PCB buried under the wires were FUSES two 5amp, two 3 amp and one 1amp fuse.

Start with the simple things first is the 1 rule of anything involving repairs so I tested the continuity of the fuses which was not easy as they were buried under a lot of old dried wires that I did not want to break.

One fuse was blown!!! The lone 1 amp fuse. Good thing I have the exact replacement for that fuse.

More likely then not I figured this had to be the reason for the failed lamps as everything else on the machine was working.

The question is why did it blow?

Was it due to the wrong voltage lamps that I installed?

Was it something else?
I reinstalled the powerbox/transformer and powered up the machine.

This is what happened

The top lamps, game initiated and 6 tile lamps flashed quickly once then went out.

I inserted a token and as the game began the game initiated lamp came on and the 6 tile lamps started sequencing as they did originally!!! They were working.

The top lamps remained out. Seeing this I now remembered that the top lamps did stay lit when I first tried powering up the game (It looked really nice)

Now the VFD display sometimes just goes out and sometimes the buttons don’t change the tiles during the middle of the game (The computer seems to crash?) These two events don’t happen together.

When I power down the machine and power it back up the VFD comes back on (to my relief.)

Every time I power the machine back up I get the same start up with all of the lamps flashing quickly (Shows that they get power) then they go out. Ill take a vid of what happens and post it tonight.

Also once the Bonus has been triggered it won’t clear unless I power down and power the machine back up?

The Lights on the side of the cell that show you’re in the Bonus mode flash only sometimes and remain solid at other times?

These are all new problems now that the fuse has been replaced.

Could it be that the optics sensors facing the 6 tile lamps can be bad causing whatever they are connected to be running amok?

Could it be that the Lamps that I am using are NOT the correct lamps because the lamps that were in the machine in the beginning were NOT the correct lamps?

Why would the VFD go out?

What would cause the button tile discard to crash? (The optics sensor to the 6 tile lights does connect to the button PCB)

What would cause the bonus not to reset when canceling the game with the game over button or with the insertion of a token?

Why wouldn’t the top lamps stay lit during game play as they originally had?

[Eddie]

Ok this is the latest in the quest to repair the Junkyu

I decided to make a vid of the startup so that you may see better what I was trying to explain. Pictures are better than words!

Right after I made the short and terrible vid I decided to go into the powerbox and give it a proper cleaning.

While I was opening it up and moving back the PCB that held the fuses I noticed something that just wasnt right.

To the left of the board and just above a small transformer there are 2 blue cylindrical
Transformers or resistors or some component that I dont know.

They are individually mounted to a plate by a screw down the middle of the cylinder. One of these components was just hanging by its copper wires!!!

Its screw and the nut which held it were gone!!!

Its copper wires were also making contact with the other cylinders copper wires which I felt should not happen.

If anything could cause an electrical failure it would be a loose screw and nut floating around PCB boards and their components.

I knew that the 2 pieces had to be within the box as there was no opening for them to fall out.

Problem was that the components were all installed in a certain order and then the wires were connected with solder so it would be near impossible to remove them to hunt for the hardware. Everything in the box was crammed
in with little to no space to see or get to the screw and nut.

Also the transformers or other components might have had magnets holding the screw and nut from view and or locking them somewhere.

I had no choice but to take the internals out as much as I could to find the lost parts.

Shaking and turning the power box did nothing to move them out from wherever they were trapped.

I managed to loosen the 2 large transformers and the small one to the left of them. Loosen is stretching it as they still had no place to move!

The PCb boards were then allowed to be partially pulled from the box and doing so revealed the screw. It was behind the lower larger PCB.

It became loose and floated along the bottom of the box and it took a long while to retrieve it with everything in the way.

The nut was not to be found where ever it was it was stuck.

I did not have a nut small enough for the screw as it is really small so I made one from a wire (quick connect) and then reattached the blue and white cyllinder to its rightful place.

After I managed to button everything back up and close the box (Not as easy as it sounds) what do you think happened? The nut came loose from where ever it was as I heard it shaking around the box (ARGH!!!)

I had to take the box apart again to get it. I left the nut I fashiond to the cyllinder as it would have required removing everything all over again to put the correct nut back on.

Im glad the nut showed itself because it would have kept me up thinking that it may short out something sooner or later if it hadn't already done so.

I powered up the machine and only had time to test 2 tokens. So far all seems the same with the machine only this time when the bonus round is hit the cell lights flash.

Like I said I only had the time to test 2 tokens so it may not mean anything that the lights were flashing in the bonus. I did not get a chance to see if the bonus would reset after a token was inserted or the game over button was depressed.

It just might be that the loose screw and nut is what blew the fuses and not the lamps?

Does anyone know what the blue and white cylinders are and what their coper wires touching each other would do?

First the vid


YouTube - Junkyu Problems


The photos

1 The Power Box internals

2 Power box internals a little closer

3 Power box 4 Larger capacitators

4 The pcb board with the fuses on the right (There are a total of 3 PCB boards in the power box)

5 Screwdriver pointing to the hanging blue and white component (note screw in the similar component beneath it) The hanging component gets mounted much higher up.

At least the sequencing tile lights look cool!!!

Where have all the electronics experts gone?

[luckydog]

nice machine and intresting play.

no help here about all I can do is check for bad connections, wire a volume control or hook up a transformer.

[garfield]

Hey Eddie,

Sorry I have been off line for a while and too bizzy to read up on all the pachitalk posts. By the looks of the counter I have another 611 unread ones.

But i havent forgotten the Junkyu and your problems

Ok, let me do some brainstorming here, maybe it helps or it might ring bells for another technical member.

1) On checking PCB's

90% of the trouble shooting on PCB's is visual inspection, so you are mistaken, that IS the way to check a PCB. Also, because we have no schematics of the electronics, visually tracing the inputs and outputs from the wiring to the actual components on the PCB may clarify the use of the PCB components and explain why certain components are used.
After that, you tackle the problem of faulty electronics and I feel that that is still at least one step to far right now.

2) The sequencing lamps.

Well they seem to be working. If they are not doing what is expected is another matter but is unimportant right now.

3) Back to the top lamps.

The video only shows a few of the top lights blink on/off during power up. Now that may be by design, this is a computer controlled machine and the software has to boot up first and set all kinds of parameters. That might well explain the flash at the beginning and the fact that starting a new game with a token or pushing a button does not have this effect.

The fact that some lights flash means that power is transported to the lights.

Now about control; I see in one of your pics, a gray flatcable coming off the PCB which holds the lights, going down and dissapears somewhere at the bottom. It is a good idea to track the bottom end on the PCB (I assume) and find out where the pins originate. That will give an indication of how they are controlled.


4) The transformer Box.

This is actually a switch mode powersupply. I will spare you the technical details, basically it is a powersupply that doesn't need huge transformers and still is able to deliver quite a lot of power. These power supplies are in boxes for a good reason. Some of the internal components of the box produce high voltages, and can be lethal when touched, so be very careful !!! Even AFTER unplugging from the mains, residu voltages stay in some of the capacitors of the powersupply and can give major jolts.

Now the two blue cylinders are coils. They are an integral part of the powersupply. I would restore the broken one to its original position with the srew. The screw mostly is an integral part of the coil and is also responsible for the amount of "henry" the coil produces.


5) More on PCB;

Looking back at post 04-22-2008, 02:36 AM , in the first picture, IC 34, 35, and 36 consists of a 1Mhz Z80 CPU with a 64K eprom (which holds the software) and a Random Access memory chip, I think its a6116 which if i remember is 64K of static RAM.

It seems that the CPU and the Eprom are in a socket. pry the CPU loose and re-insert it, to make sure that dust hasn't settled between the pins. To pry it loose, use a flat screwdriver and wiggle it out of the socket.
It would be interesting to see what the junkyu does without the Eprom, or without the CPU. It will at least show the parts that work independant of the cpu.



At the bottom of the board i see three eproms and a memory chip. Not sure why they are placed there. I also see these banks of pull-up resistors next to it.
I am going to guess that these memory banks store your music and voice.

Ok, your turn I guess .

[Eddie]

Now about control; I see in one of your pics, a gray flatcable coming off the PCB which holds the lights, going down and dissapears somewhere at the bottom. It is a good idea to track the bottom end on the PCB (I assume) and find out where the pins originate. That will give an indication of how they are controlled.



Now the two blue cylinders are coils. They are an integral part of the powersupply. I would restore the broken one to its original position with the srew. The screw mostly is an integral part of the coil and is also responsible for the amount of "henry" the coil produces.




5) More on PCB;

Looking back at post 04-22-2008, 02:36 AM , in the first picture, IC 34, 35, and 36 consists of a 1Mhz Z80 CPU with a 64K eprom (which holds the software) and a Random Access memory chip, I think its a6116 which if i remember is 64K of static RAM.


It seems that the CPU and the Eprom are in a socket. pry the CPU loose and re-insert it, to make sure that dust hasn't settled between the pins. To pry it loose, use a flat screwdriver and wiggle it out of the socket.
It would be interesting to see what the junkyu does without the Eprom, or without the CPU. It will at least show the parts that work independant of the cpu.



At the bottom of the board i see three eproms and a memory chip. Not sure why they are placed there. I also see these banks of pull-up resistors next to it.
I am going to guess that these memory banks store your music and voice.

Ok, your turn I guess .

1 The Ribbon cable from the top lamp board goes to the right of the machine and plugs into the top center of the MAIN board on the back of the machine.

2

The blue and white coil is mounted to its correct position held by the screw.

As of this post I have not had a chance to test the machine properly since I reinstalled the Blue and white coil to its correct position


3 I cant find the post you are referring to 04-22-2008, 02:36 AM so I dont know which pic you are telling me about.

[takethecastle57]

those look like reed switches with the magnet on the lever to open or close the switch

[takethecastle57]

i just finished reading all the post on this thread and i got to tell you thats alot of electronics to troubleshoot . I've been fixing electronics for over 40 years and i think your on the right track . Many thanks for all the pictures and vid .

[garfield]

3 I cant find the post you are referring to 04-22-2008, 02:36 AM so I dont know which pic you are telling me about.[/quote]

time zones !!! lets see, its the one where you post only pics of the main PCB, nine in all. In that respect I have a slight problem, you made pics at different angles. I am assuming that the CN2 connector is the one for the lights.

Can you take a few pics of the back of the main board. It would be good if they match the front side of pic 6 7 and 9 of the above mentioned post.

If you are willing to take out the mainboard again, can you take the pics, holding the board in front of a bright light, so that you can see the copper lanes on the back through the pcb, if that isn't an option, just a few pics would be fine.

to be continued ...

[MrGneiss]

3 I cant find the post you are referring to 04-22-2008, 02:36 AM so I dont know which pic you are telling me about.

This post I think...don't forget the time zones!!



PachiTalk

[Eddie]

Good thinking !!! Thx

[Eddie]

Ok I did as Garfield asked and took back lit pics of the mainboard. They are not as sharp as he really needed to define the tracings but they look cool so I posted them.

I also took off the top lamp cover to check on some lamps that did not appear to light on the power up from the vid and it turned out that there were 6 lamps that did not come on
yet were NOT burned out? It made me think that indeed the lamp Driver or whatever enabled the power to get to them was malfunctioning.

I went over the mainboard once again and cleaned it out with Isopropyl Alcohol and compressed air. This thing has been cleaned out more than our pockets from taxes!!!

I finally had time to play some rounds as well and???

Everything seems to be working with the exception of a total reset of the bonus with either coin in or depressing the game end button.

The top lamps from what I am seeing DO NOT COME ON during gameplay but only for wins and show payout hand info.

I managed to win 2 games and in doing so..

The top lamps came on to light certain Kanji.

The Music tune changed.

A payout count for 4 coins illuminated in the Top Center LED.

I had three balls left when this happened in the first winning game and not understanding what to do I discarded a tile for the next ball and LOST the 4 in the LED and the game music and lights went back to regular game play. In other words I screwed up a win!!!

The next time I received a winning hand I had the same payout of 4 in the LED but this time I decided to push the game end button to see what would happen and???

Bingo, 4 coins were payed out and the LED read 0.. YEA!!! It was great hearing the restored coin mech work for the first time!

I managed to get a vid as it might be a long time before I see a winning hand again.

YouTube - Junkyu (Mahjong Pachinko) Machine First win Payout

In the vid I point to the upper left hand lamps and thought they were showing that the hopper might be too low for the win payout but I was mistaken. I guess I get to excited because I know for sure that the low coin hopper lights are the 2 lamps on either side of the white game initiated lamp! I have no idea what those top left lights mean! LOL

This game is hard to win as there are many factors involved in getting a winning hand. Besides that the max coins that can be won is 10 so its cheap too LOL

It seems that once you get a winning hand the game is over unless of course you take a risk and try to go for a possible better paying hand? I havent learned enough about Mahjong to try for something like that.

For now I try for the simple winning hand.

4 sets of 3 of the same suit or 3 in sequence plus 2 of the same tile.

So for now I think most of the machine is working save the total reset of the bonus (Unless you power down and up again) Without knowing for sure I would say 90% working?

Any suggestions as to what kind of chip or component may be responsible for the reset?

Would it be a possible combination not reached during gameplay?

Photos

1-5 The back lit rear of the main board

6 The front of the same board

7 The first ever winning hand that I blew by discarding a tile for another ball
I had 3 left and assumed that you had to play out all of the balls.

On the far right of the VFD you can see the number 3 designating the balls remaining to play ( Counted down from 10)

In the vid of the second (won) Game you can see that I had 6 balls remaining.

If this is the best I can get out of the machine I can live with it.

(It would be nice to get the 100% of course LOL)

I want to thank all of you for following along with this thread and giving your input and help.

Special thx go to Garfield, Fronzdan, MrGniess,Dishpan,Musky Logicprobe and of course Compirate

This Extremely Rare machine by any standard (TRY looking for one on GOOGLE U.S. or GOOGLE Japan) is now fairly much working again due to the efforts of PACHITALK and its members.

If your a member that is not into Pachinko machines and just Pachislo I hope you still found this thread interesting and even entertaining.

Of course this wont be the last post on this machine as I want that last 10% I have OCD you know

[garfield]

Thanks for the pics They are cool ...and totally useless :aetsch:

Having read your post and looking back on videos and stuff, i am inclined to think that ALL the electronics on the Junkyu work just fine. This machine is computer controlled, and there are so many inputs and outputs, a lot of the chips on the pcb must be used to direct all these signals to the Z80 for analysing and processing. that may be the reason so many TTL logic is on the board. Well that seems to work al right too.

Basicly exepting an extreme case of Murphy, I think your machine is very OK.

Like in my computer pachinko. I have put a lot of time in trying to re-engineer the PCB, but i did that mainly to find out how they did stuff and because I think it's fun to do . I have a strong feeling that when I hook up the PCB again, solder all the wires nicely in place, that this machine is just going to work. But that is for later and another posting

I expect the problem left is bad connections in a connector somewhere, or a wire that isn't attached properly or a switch that doesn't trigger properly. I wouldn't be surprised if after a thorough examination of these, you will find that error and everything will work just fine.

Good luck with the continuing search, but in the mean time : Have fun playing !!!