Taiyo Electron power advice needed Eddie!

[sharmoni]

I hope this is the right place to post this request for info. I want to make sure it is available for other forum readers.

Eddie, I think you will be able to answer this best. My Taiyo Electron arrived and before I blow up all the circuitry I figured I'd ask what solution you ended up with. The front looks like your Jinn, only the playfield and such are different. I didn't find any pictures of the back of yours in the thread, but maybe they were in another one.

Anyway, here are shots of my machine. I understand the transformer needs power going into it stepped down to 100v and I will be able to use the transformer Arby is sending with my Pica Cell Cleaner to do that. Did you end up getting a step down transformer for your Jinn? How did you wire up the wall power input wires for the machine? What did you do to connect to the white plastic plug leading into the switch box—strip the wires and solder them to a standard wall plug?

I can see where the power wires from the transformer route through a switch and fuse box at the bottom of the machine. There is a large cavity beside that switch that I can't tell if something should be in there. Is yours similar and does it have anything there? It looks like maybe a pair of something plug in.

Thanks for your help with this. http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif

[FTKServices]

Nice Machine.

[sharmoni]

Ok, I took the plunge and changed out the power connector with a new molex pair from our fantastic local electrical supply shop (RadioShack bites). Then I just stripped the end of a power cable that had wires small enough to fit in the other half of the molex connector. That gives me enough cord to run out the back of the case if I want to keep the stepdown transformer outside, plus I can disconnect the cord and make a shorter one if I want to change the setup so the stepdown transformer stays in the case.

All the lights work as far as I can tell except a couple in the center circle that show which numbered slots have been activated (the activation is still recorded, which I determined by swapping bulbs). The score LED works up to nine, after that it just makes a "u" with the top half (I guess it's rare to get more than nine). The multiplier light works. There maybe other lights that I will discover when I take the back apart for cleaning.

Sound works and, like Eddie's Jinn Taiyo Electron PachiTalk, the sounds are simple but pretty cool. I get the same hum he does after the first numbers light up. It goes away after pressing the payout (reset?) button.

Quarters work in the coin slot since they are heavy enough to trip the wire as they slide down the ramp to the coin tube. That saves me a lot of hassle and expense finding correctly sized tokens.

The ball reloader magnet can't quite dump the balls yet, though it tries, so cleaning and oiling joints will be next. I can't tell if the payout magnet that releases the won tokens will work once I've got more than one quarter to test it with. I hope that is all that is wrong with it. Otherwise I'll be in for a larger challenge than just cutting and crimping wires.

The machine is pretty much in mint shape, with only dust to clean up. The playfield laminate is curling away slightly from the board at the edge just underneath the number pockets cutout. That will be easy to fix, but if someone knows the best adhesive for that, please chime in.

[sharmoni]

Eddie, looking at photos of your ArePachis it seems mine might be missing the plastic panel that identifies the numbers of the pockets. Do all of yours have that panel and does it sit in the glass frame? I can live without it because I doubt I could aim any balls anyway, but I'm curious.

[Eddie]

Not all do. However some have plates with numbers on them glued to the numbered pockets.
Without having the Plastic numbered board that gets sandwiched between the glass panes I would opt for making my own numbered plate.

[sharmoni]

If you can send me a scan of one you think might look good with my machine, I can recreate it in Illustrator and print it on paper, laminate it to cardstock and get a reasonable facsimile. It would probably be easier for me to do the between-the-glass type. But no rush and only if you feel like it. I've got enough cleanup and restoration work now with my various machines to keep me busy for months!

[Eddie]

Any updates?

[sharmoni]

I'm halfway there, it's in pieces all over my living room!

I got most of the plastic cleaned and some of the rust removed. I bought a nice Dremel to help speed up the rust removal and chrome polishing. Bullfrog makes a great rust remover that is quick and can be used indoors.

So far I've only broken one plastic piece during the cleaning and I was able to glue that back together with super glue. I was also able to repair the black plastic screw that was broken on arrival, but I have yet to test it to see if the bond survives the torque.

I tracked down replacement mini lamps (thanks for mentioning the part number in one of your posts: 2182)—my local independent hardware store had them. I bought a bunch of replacement screws in case I need them. I also bought a sheet of plexiglass for the inside rails of the door (the glass that came with it is too noisy).

Progress is slow (I'm not a big fan of cleaning), but I hope to get it re-assembled over the weekend.

[drcrippen324]

That is looking stunning as a restoration project cant wait to see it re asembled

[new in town]

Keep at it and Reap the rewards. A Pachi to play with.

[Eddie]

I'm halfway there, it's in pieces all over my living room!

I got most of the plastic cleaned and some of the rust removed. I bought a nice Dremel to help speed up the rust removal and chrome polishing. Bullfrog makes a great rust remover that is quick and can be used indoors.

So far I've only broken one plastic piece during the cleaning and I was able to glue that back together with super glue. I was also able to repair the black plastic screw that was broken on arrival, but I have yet to test it to see if the bond survives the torque.

I tracked down replacement mini lamps (thanks for mentioning the part number in one of your posts: 2182)—my local independent hardware store had them. I bought a bunch of replacement screws in case I need them. I also bought a sheet of plexiglass for the inside rails of the door (the glass that came with it is too noisy).

Progress is slow (I'm not a big fan of cleaning), but I hope to get it re-assembled over the weekend.

Dont use the 2182s they are 14 volt I just used that model to represent a bulb for the particular holder. Bad move on my part ..
Use 2187s they are 28v and I believe they are the standard for these Arepachis. the 2182s will get too hot if not outright burnout or melt something close to them.
You can test the voltage on the light boards to see if you can use the 2182s before you replace them with the 87s
Sorry if I misled you

[sharmoni]

Wow, thanks! I hope I can find that size at my hardware store. Do you have an online source or do you buy them locally?

[FTKServices]

Eddie, can you post a picture of that bulb 2187 for me.
Thanks

[Eddie]

Eddie, can you post a picture of that bulb 2187 for me.
Thanks

Here is a pic of the 2187 in its silicone holder with the MFG tape insulating the bent over wires.

The bulb is identical to the 2182's only the voltage is different.

[FTKServices]

Thanks for the picture. That's great.

[Eddie]

LOL thx it took over 12 shots to get it.

[sharmoni]

Eddie, did you ever find a source for the mini lamp nylon sleeves? There are three post pairs on the circuit boards behind the two spinners and my machine has only two lamps per spinner. I wasn't sure if I needed to have three in each to complete the circuit. I don't remember seeing them light up. Do you have to win something, or open a tulip before they light?

I'd like to know before I put it back together, as those are tricky to get at later. But I don't want to put lamps in there if I then won't have enough sleeves and lamps for the scoring lights.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Also, regarding tokens: now that I've removed the mods that someone attached so quarters would work, I can only use tokens of 26 to 27 mm dia. Anything smaller tips sideways into the coin return and anything larger won't fit.

I could use dollar coins, but that would be expensive, not to mention illegal! I would love to find Japanese tokens like the one you showed in this post PachiTalk, but I don't expect to. I will use any tokens of the right size. Let me know if you ever find a source.

[compirate]

I can only use tokens of 26 to 27 mm dia. Anything smaller tips sideways into the coin return and anything larger won't fit.

I know we don't advocate using actual money in our machines, but I find it interesting that a 500Y coin sounds perfect for this (26.5mm). Even more expensive than using dollars!

[sharmoni]

As I wrote in a parallel thread today (PachiTalk), I am now thinking about ordering custom-minted reproductions of Eddie's token. Seems like it would be fun to have a whole mess of the "original" tokens.

[sharmoni]

Update:
All parts are clean and now the reassembly begins (providing I can find some screws that I've misplaced). Here's a photo of the front (not as sharp as I'd like—I think I need a tripod, and a better lighting setup). I'll post more pics with close-ups as I get it all back together.