Coin Op Pachinko has arrived!!!!!!!!!!!

[luckydog]

it sounds like a tailight warrenty on the repairs.

a few bucks worth of parts, a lot of bucks for labor, didn't they check the LEDs?

[alstonj1]

heres the sn 7400 http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/sn7400.html
heres the sn 7402 http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/sn7402.html
heres the sn 74121 http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folder...t/sn74121.html

these are all logic chips none are the driver chips for the leds......

what are the chip numbers on the left the ones you said where getting hot ?

[Eddie]

Here are pics of the 2 Chips that get hot.
2 photos are of the chips
One photo is the area with all of the processors.
One Photo is of one of the Hot Processors and the resistors that the LEDs are connected to

#1 The Hot Processors are on the Top Left and Top Right
#2 The Hot Processors are on the Top Left and bottom Left just a different view
#3 the board as it came returned
#4 LED resistors
The Processor Numbers are

9357/7447
PFC7403

and

El Salvador 3278
SN7447AN

[alstonj1]

The 7447 is a standard bcd to 7 segment driver chip you can check the out put with a meter remember vcc+ is the positive supply and gnd is the ground reference a-f are the actual segments the resistors are dropping resistors for the led segments heres the url for the chip the little triangle silkscreened on the board points to pin 1 on the chip basicly the upper right is the pos and the lower left should be the ground . the single led is driven by the lower left chip and the other led you say isnt working is controlled by the lower chip on the right the others are driven by the upper chip .photo #2

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/sear...7AN&sType=part

[fronzdan]

Just caught up on this thread.

From what I can see, this is a very simple two layer board with some basic TTL logic chips along with resistors and caps. You should be able to generate a schematic pretty easily. If you just layout the IC's as rectangles with standard IC numbering schemes (Pin 1 - n on one side going down, Pin n+1 - the last pin on the other side going up), beep out or eyeball all the traces and discrete parts, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

From the looks of it, the repair guys might have replace 1, maybe two IC's...both of which are a couple bucks each at the most. There are no complex IC's or processors on there. In those days, anything like that was a huge, multi-pin deal.

List all the IC's ... I may have some...I have a bunch of old TTL stuff in DIP packages like that.

I missed it...but the IC that gets warm...is that the 7447? Do any of the segments light up? The 7447 has open collector outputs to drive the LED segments. It will sink the current that flows through the pullup resistor, through the LED to ground inside the chip. So if it's getting hot, it's probably sinking too much current. This could be a problem with the pullups (shorts etc). The LED display itself can have burned out segments. If you put a volt meter on the outputs of the driver IC, you should see some hi's and lo's.

[luckydog]

Maybe this will make you feel better

[azlew]

Maybe this will make you feel better

[dishpan]

We are Borg! Resistance is futile!

[Eddie]

Just caught up on this thread.

From what I can see, this is a very simple two layer board with some basic TTL logic chips along with resistors and caps. You should be able to generate a schematic pretty easily. If you just layout the IC's as rectangles with standard IC numbering schemes (Pin 1 - n on one side going down, Pin n+1 - the last pin on the other side going up), beep out or eyeball all the traces and discrete parts, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

From the looks of it, the repair guys might have replace 1, maybe two IC's...both of which are a couple bucks each at the most. There are no complex IC's or processors on there. In those days, anything like that was a huge, multi-pin deal.

List all the IC's ... I may have some...I have a bunch of old TTL stuff in DIP packages like that.

I missed it...but the IC that gets warm...is that the 7447? Do any of the segments light up? The 7447 has open collector outputs to drive the LED segments. It will sink the current that flows through the pullup resistor, through the LED to ground inside the chip. So if it's getting hot, it's probably sinking too much current. This could be a problem with the pullups (shorts etc). The LED display itself can have burned out segments. If you put a volt meter on the outputs of the driver IC, you should see some hi's and lo's.

What a great comprehension you have!! Im lost.

On post #30 you can see a photo with the Leds that work and the Leds that dont.

Would you be willing to have a crack at the board? (For a fee of course)

I just wrote to two more guys that each wrote really great articles in Gameroom magazine.
They both just wished me luck ! LOL Thats what I got from everyone that I have contacted about 30 repair guys/Shops in all.
One guy redid the wiring in a Pinball machine that was all Burned up from a fire the other guy makes his own aftermarket main boards for pinballs and neither of them could help with this simple board.

I really dont have the knoweldge needed to work on this board. Which is frustraiting as I can tell it is a very simple board.

I was hoping that TestPoint ,the place that did take it ,would have done the right thing in the first place.

Now the machine is just sitting wounded while I am in the middle of refubishing the Satomi Arepachi.
I should be done by tomorrow.
Once im finished with it I will be back to my Coin Op OCD.

[fronzdan]

Sent you PM...

[lukewells]

Hello!

Interesting thread with nice piccies for me to look at lol

Sorry to see you have been scammed (big time)

I repair video game and pinball pcbs constantly.

Firstly the parts that have been replaced would not cost more then $5 in your money.

Second, when I replace a chip on a 30 year old board, even with my neatest soldering, and using flux cleaner afterwards to remove the shiney marks, you can still tell the chips I have replaced, because fresh solder is always more shiney then 30 year old solder and there is no getting away from that.

Third, they say they tested the parts and replaced the broken ones. Now unless they had the full machine, they would not be able to test the parts. You test logic chips using a logic probe and/or logic comparitor. Now in order to test them, you need to check for activity on the inputs and outputs of the chips, you cant do this if the board is not wired up to the machine as most of the inputs will not be stimulated properly without the rest of the hardware. To an extent you can stimulate the inputs with a logic pulser, but this is not going to be 100% acurate to how the machine should be functioning in real life.

If I was in the US and you were paying me $190 I would just replace every single chip and have done with it. I earn FAR LESS then that diagnosing and repairing much more complicated hardware like video game pcbs, so for soemthing that simple and that ammount of money I would just shotgun every bit of logic


Next, 7447's should not be getting very hot, they will be reasonably warm, as they are sinking current, but only a few milliamps, sounds like your red hot chip is being shorted.

[Eddie]

Thx for your input. Fronzdan a member here is going to take a look at the board. I think you two are on par with each other as to Electronic knowledge.
Im far from your level and I admire the both of you.
Aside from the chips would the other components be hard to source out to replace?

[alstonj1]

no those parts are easy to come by as long as you have the values or chip numbers .look them up on the net its your best sorce for components any more ...its when they burn up that you need a scmatic to tell what it should be .if it just fails at least you have the markings to go by .

[lukewells]

All of those components are always in stock at my house lol



Good luck to you with this one. I'm sure Fronzdan will do his best for you, definatly a nice machine to get working, just sorry you had to go through getting scammed before finding someone genuine.

Keep us informed (with lots of pics... i like pics) lol

[Chris]

OMG - That is a well stocked outfit

[hanabi]

and we ALL like Pics round here!!

[Eddie]

no those parts are easy to come by as long as you have the values or chip numbers .look them up on the net its your best sorce for components any more ...its when they burn up that you need a scmatic to tell what it should be .if it just fails at least you have the markings to go by .

Thx again for info You are another that I admire for your electronic knowledge.

All of those components are always in stock at my house lol

http://arcadeuk.com/compdrawers.jpg

Good luck to you with this one. I'm sure Fronzdan will do his best for you, definatly a nice machine to get working, just sorry you had to go through getting scammed before finding someone genuine.

Keep us informed (with lots of pics... i like pics) lol

Thats what Im talking about!!! Nice stock.

Just the fact that Fronzdan is even willing to take a look is cool.

Getting somone to look or work on it is harder than stowing away on the Space Shuttle. I know I worked first hand with the first crew!

[Youngjedi]

Hi Eddie,
Thought You might find this interesting...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BALLY-BINGO-PINB...QQcmdZViewItem

[imsimba]

Nice bingo machine, one of Bally's best. Wrong coast for me though, be he'd ship it to CA for $550.

[azlew]

That is a real collectors item for sure! Thanks Youngjedi