Coin Op Pachinko has arrived!!!!!!!!!!!

[alstonj1]

i would try disconnecting the what looks like pink wire from the gray one going to the board at the splice it may have been spliced to give power directly to the replay switch instead of putting coins in .the replay mode probably isn't activated hence no light . larger pictures would help its hard to trace wires via small pics like this larger area would help .As for the led try moving the led around or pressing down on it to see if it lights it may just be a defective socket or cold solder joint if its soldered on .Just be careful to use a heat sink if it is and you decide to re-solder it or you will blow it . if its the socket unplug the led display and use some contact cleaner to clean it and check the solder joints on it with the led out you wont need the heat sink .

[Eddie]

i would try disconnecting the what looks like pink wire from the gray one going to the board at the splice it may have been spliced to give power directly to the replay switch instead of putting coins in .the replay mode probably isn't activated hence no light . larger pictures would help its hard to trace wires via small pics like this larger area would help .As for the led try moving the led around or pressing down on it to see if it lights it may just be a defective socket or cold solder joint if its soldered on .Just be careful to use a heat sink if it is and you decide to re-solder it or you will blow it . if its the socket unplug the led display and use some contact cleaner to clean it and check the solder joints on it with the led out you wont need the heat sink .

I didnt get a chance to get to the machine tonight to take pics, but I will make sure to take really clear ones of the plug, connections and the PC board.

The Dark Gray wires are comming from the PC board and are powering the Outside Case Lights via the Light Gray wires and the Pink wires.
There are Green wires that are also soldered directly to the board that you can see have been spliced together. The pics posted really arent clear enough as to which wires are connected to what.
But the main splices were used to power the outside case lights from the board.

Im not sure but there might have been a wire from a connector that is broken off at the plug Which can be seen between a Green and Orange wire.
From the bottom of the plug in the pics are the jumble of RED Positive wires from the BUS and 3 wires up from that is the empty connector space. I havent looked at it in detail to determine if anything was connnected there or not. That spot may have been where the lights were connected to originally.

I think the hackers bypassed the connector and just soldered the Outside Light's power wires to the PC board and spliced them where you see the wires connected together.

Both the Replay Switch AND the Coin Insert work to start the game.

The LEDs are a 3 digit numeric display that is mounted to the surface of the PC board and is a single unit not individual leds in sockets And a Single digit numeric display which is also surface mounted.
I will take pics of them as well. They are mounted to the back of the board.

[Eddie]

its amazing in how much of a pull it out chuck it out and replace it world we live in... no body wants to bother anymore with stuff like that... i find it crazy.

I find it amazing that there is anyone out there anymore that can design these things in the first place!
The kids in schools today dont seem to know anything. Seems they only learn attitude and appearance and barely know how to use the technological things they are given and take for granted. They as well as most people of the world dont appreciate what is involved in the creation of all that is around them including the kitchen sink!
But then again in reality, its only been a reletivly small handful of very talented, smart ,hardworking people, REAL geniuses most unknown and some known over the milliennia that have accomplished the feats of wonder that has led to what our world is today.

[slotter]

Not to be a pessimist, but I'm thinking you're right, Eddie.

[alstonj1]

its a common problem in electronics and electric fields that only 1 in 10 is a real trouble shooter the rest are trouble chart readers reading prepared text of what has been known to go wrong with an item .But defective equipment rarely acts as predicted when it goes haywire........thats where the trouble shooter gets his adrenaline from. its the act of beating the machine that makes them tick not the pat on the back afterward ......how ever nothing replaces hands on 3 dimensional work .doing surgery via phone or computer is always an extremely difficult thing to do . sort of like blind folding and tyeing both hands behind ones back and asking them to answer the phone !

[Eddie]

I figured that while I was trying to take pics it would be easier to just remove the board. I cut the shoddy wires from the Cabinet lights and added extensions in the process. which cleaned up the poorly spliced and insulation torn wires.

The connections to the board are finished but the connections to the harness are temp, as you can see in the pics, they are just twisted together in case we figure out where they should really be if they are not connected the right way.

I gave the back of the board and components a really good cleaning with electronic board cleaner.

With the board off I could see that the LEDs are individual units and not one 3 digit unit as I had posted earlier. So that makes 4 units total. 3 for the Score and one for the Replays

One of the photos, shows the area where I cut off the ( Power Cord, It was basically a very long jumper that bridged the 2 soldered posts)? from the board which undid the the TILT that the machine was in.

I took a few pics of the wire connections so that you guys may be able to see which wires are connected to each other better.

I discoverd something during the connection process. On the top PC board wire I added a black extension (I didnt have a gray) that goes to the Green wires which I traced to Ground.
It doesnt matter if that wire #3 is connected to the (Green Ground Wires )nothing changes with the game.
The same symptoms continue no change of any kind. I took one pic of the wires like that without the Ground connected.

If the other lower PC board wire is connected to the Ground then nothing happens at all with the machine, only the cabinet lights remain lit.

The photos

1. The back of the entire board.

2. The Odd connections to the PC board, 2 light Gray wires from left to right
#1 is connected and labled R for Red wires. Its connection point is blocked by #2 Labeled G Which turned out to mean Gray wires and #3 a Black wire labled GR Which meant Green wires.

3. The front of the board and the components which these wires are connected to.

4 The area of the back of the board where the weird jumper wire was connected. (The Reddish Brown spots, on the 2 small vertical tracings, at right center of the pic)

5 The Leds from a side view

6 The Leds from an overhead view

The rest of the pics on the next post.

[Eddie]

#1 The Bus Bar with Fuse and Power Switch.

#s 2,3 The wire extensions from the Board to the Harness and Cabinet Lights. I took a few pics so that you could get a better view and the connections are as follows.

PC Wire #3 to the 2 Green Ground wires.

PC Wire #1 to the Red Cabinet Light Wire and to the PINK wire (in the Horizontal harness in the right of the pic) from the Bus.

PC#3 to the Gray Cabinet Light Wire and the Gray wire in the same harness as above from the Bus.

#4 and 5 The Connections with PC #3 Not connected to the Green Ground wires.

I know its probably almost impossible to determine what the cause may be from just looking at pics but maybe somone might spot something that I cant see.

Notice in the plug where the Green and Orange wires are connected there is a space between them where something might have been connected.

[alstonj1]

how good are you at soldering Eddie ,if your good you might try unsoldering one of the known good LEDs (the replays a good candate) and swapping it with the 100's led to see if the problem is the led or the driver for the led on the board .also while you have the board apart as i said carefully look over the back of the board with a magnifying glass looking for cracks in lands and cold solder joints carefully move the components around to see if the leads move on the back you'd be surprised how many components are held in by a dab of solder that breaks over time . also go ahead and power the unit up but stay away from the transformer side of the board . put a few balls in the pocket to register into the hundreds and wiggle the led and then press in on it to see if it lights those are fairly old LEDs and it might just be broken due to fatigue like the elco reel LEDs pressing on them might make the connection for a second . if nothing works try what i described and switch a good led to the position .the replay one will do fine all 4 are probably the same Led packages most manufactures don't buy different types it cost to much easier to buy in bulk and use the kiss principle .

[Eddie]

Here are pics of the Plug to the board. Notice the 3 empty spots to the outside of the Blue wires on the end, thats where I believe the weird hacked wires were supposed to plug in. Also notice in the middle of the plug an empty space or at least a tab without a wire but it has Solder on it? Anyone have any ideas?
All of the tabs are loose inside of the plug but the wires are tight on them.
When plugged into the board all connections are tight.
Has anyone bought plugs like these and have to run wires to them?
Is it hard? are special tools required
I would like to make this connector like new by cutting back the bad wire ends and rinserting them into the plug.
I am having the main board sent out for evaluation its going to a place that contracts for major industries!
This is obssesion if ever there was one.

[Eddie]

Im depressed The board just came back from the repair guys after about 2 weeks and some big bucks.
The problem remains even after I was told that some components were bad and were replaced?
I am at a loss at what to do. If I only had schematics It would be a simple thing to figure out.
I think alstonj1 is right that it was rigged to play without using a coin, by having the replay constantly energized.
This makes sense to me because the coin in still starts the game.
Also two processor chips get very hot probably because they were not to be constantly on.
I dont want to be stuck with a non fully functioning machine it just takes the fun away.
Even if I had pics of the insides of another machine I could probably straighten out the wiring.

Well here are some of the pics that I sent to Test Point, the guys that did the work,as well as the description that I gave them about the machine.

Steve here are some pics I just took of the machines board hope it helps some.
I also took a photo of the Plug that connects to the board in the
position that it sits on the board.

I didnt really trace the connections 100% but the Replay wire is
the correct one for sure.
I guess 80% are correct as some wires
loop back to the Tilt Bob switch mech and Coin in switch (not seen
in the photos).

There is also a photo of the back of the board showing the
components mentioned on the plug. I didnt have time to do a really
accurate trace.

The power comming from the Buss harness along the right
side of the machine through the plug, connects to the Transformer
then the stepped down voltage comes back from the board Through the plug to the Wire harness running down the left of the machine. Which powers the Tilt and Jackpot Light as well as the Tilt Solenoid and the Jackpot
Score and Replay score. (Thats the reason for the Multiple Red and
Blue wires on the the same connector on the Plug)

Power from the Transformer to the plug also leads to the harness
dropping down right center of the machine to the 2 Solenoids which
I call A +B which have to deal with jackpot ball payouts and
machine mechanical reset.

Seems as if everything gets power just fine.

There is a Photo of the area that had the crazy cord which did
nothing but bridge the 2 tracings.
Maybe that caused the short to
the Replay Button and or Burned out the LEDs or scoring processors?
Anytime those 2 tracings are bridged the machine Tilts so I have no idea what was intended by the jumper wire that was there.

Once again the only machine problems are that the Replay is
constantly active and the 2 leds dont illuminate

One pic is of the Wires soldered to the board which were probably
supposed to go to the plug through terminals which connected to the harness
now they just bypass the plug and connect directly to the wire harness.

I hope this helps thx Eddie

So now Im at a loss as to what to do. I never give up. maybe I will have to write to Nishijian and see what I can learn.

Anyone have any ideas?

I even went to Newlifegames.net a great Slot machine site and guess what they sent me to Pachitalk!
Maybe we should be linked to each other?

Million God Help me

[alstonj1]

your praying to the wrong god on this one eddie ....... at this point anything i gave you would be a guess without seeing the actual machine to figure it out .i take it the leds are still dead even after the repairs ? ......

[jwegger]

Several years ago one of my former employees and I were talking about pachinko and he mentioned that he had several of these machines in the arcade that he used to own. If I remeber correctly he said he had lots of problems with them and they were down more than they were up. The company that he got them from fixed them a couple of times and then went out of business, he had them stored in his garage for years after that and had recently gotten rid of them. Unfortunatly he passed away a couple of years ago so I can't ask him about them any more.

As for contating Nishijin, I beleive that would be a dead end since your machine was most probably modified here in the US after they were excessed from Japan. Tons of these machines were brought in and sold through retail stores and catalogs during the 70's. I would bet there was a small company that got hold of the machines and modified them here to sell to arcades to take advantage of the craze.


With that said I would check the two ICs that have appear to be overheating. If you can get the numbers off the top of them you can look up what they do and the input voltage requirements. If they are getting too hot my first thought would be an over voltage input. you should then be able to trace the circuit back to the componets leading into the pin that is over voltage and see perhaps if one of them is causing your over voltage to the ICs.

The circuit board looks to be a very simple design, hence the bule jumper wires on the bottom of the board. While it could be designed to avoid using the jumpers, it would have been cheaper and quicker to make it with the jumpers, the soldering looks hurried and not high production line quality. This adds to my belief that they were produced in small batches here in the US. And the pachinkos were modified on an order by order basis.

Hope it helps

[Eddie]

your praying to the wrong god on this one eddie ....... at this point anything i gave you would be a guess without seeing the actual machine to figure it out .i take it the leds are still dead even after the repairs ? ......

Yes the same LEDs are out and I really dont believe that they repaired the board I believe I have been taken.

I was told that 5 thats right 5 components were replaced after sending them an email for an itemized list of the repair work and parts as the packing list, bill invoice had none on it.

I was told that the parts were processors? I was told that the soldering was so good that I couldnt see the new processors!
Am I to believe that 5 new processors are just as faded as processors from the 70s?

The machine performs excactly as it did with The "bad processors" that were replaced How is that possible? Seeing that the machine works at very close to 90% What were those processors on the board for? I dont buy it.

I think they just took my money and sent the board back. So I have no idea if the LEDS are bad or the board is bad. Im back at square one.

I did find that there is another machine on craiglist in detroit but its pickup only. I asked the seller if he would part out the board and wire harness. He sent photos and guess what it had a completely different board and harness! If he is willing to strip the entire electrical system
and sell it to me I would custom install it in this machine

Alstonj
If you are really good at soldering would you like to have a crack at the LEDs? what would you charge? would you be able to find replacement leds? They are not like the Sinbad LEDs they have many connectors each and are connected to resistors on the oppsite side of the board so it would be very tricky.

[luckydog]

a friend of mine took her car in for a new powersteering pump, the old one was leaking,

she got charged for a new pump and when I popped the hood their was the dirty, dusty pump with a new hose, when she called the guy, he said he rebuilt it!

[slotter]

Buyer beware. There are a lot of crooks out there.

[azlew]

Eddie this all makes me really wish I had held onto mine instead of selling it for a small profit.

Mine was called for some reason " Computer Pachinko" and was perfect in every aspect with the tilt,scoring and quarter acceptance 100 percent etc. But my limited space forced me to sell it.
I wish i had taken pictures of the internal boards etc so I could post them here to see if the wireing would of helped you.

Hopefully you will get this one working as it sure looks nice.

[alstonj1]

Eddie I'm sure you could find someone you know that can do this job locally its not that difficult to do .You don't know anyone that has some electronics background ? its a simple procedure to get the led unsolder ed and swapped with a known good one . i just don't have the time to get into it as dawn can tell you it takes me a while to do these things when my time allows it. radio shack sells a product called solder braid basically its a copper mesh that absorbs heated solder and leaves a clean PC board behind .I suggest you buy some and practice with another PC board if you wait to long before removing it you could rip up the copper land with it and to long with the soldering iron applied will destroy the led . the other method is to use a solder vac ,basically its a vacuum device that you use to suck up the solder when heated they work well with practice also . either way you need to use a 25-30 watt pencil soldering iron and shouldn't take more than an hour to swap two of the led displays from the pictures you showed . either way practice desoldering components from an old scrap board till you feel comfortable doing it .As for the led i know its not the same as the elco i was using that as an example of the problems LEDs encounter and its a famous example around here .the idea is to swap a good working led into the dead LEDs space to see if the driver is at fault or if its the led .the only other way is to actually trace the lands for the dead led back to the ic chip driver and look the chip number up online and read the pin outs with a meter to see if there is any voltages on any of the segments of the led when the led should be lit .trying to find a schematic for this pachinko is almost impossible as I'm sure these were modified by a third party as was mentioned before so the original manufacturer wouldn't have a clue about it and I'm sure the third party is long gone . but the scmatic diagrams for the chips are available online the only way to do this is to reverse engineer the board and that takes time and patients .You might find another one to compare it to but most are probably in the scrap heap long ago . Thats what makes these things so much fun you got one that survived the destruction .......after relooking at the pictures of the board i can tell you the three chips on the left (the ones you say are getting hot are indeed the led driver chips .now they may be over driven by too much voltage or are defective and shorting out due to a bad led display as i said its hard to tell via a computer image .

[azlew]

I looked back on my records and this is the place that sold me mine(via Ebay) :

http://www.flippers.com/

They are in Canada.

If you decide to check with them : be sure to talk to John (the owner).
I see they have one listed on their website at 395.00 (WOW!) The last time I discussed mine with him (regarding crating and shipping from Canada)he said they do repair work on them. But who knows? Maybe he can give you some help

[Eddie]

I looked back on my records and this is the place that sold me mine(via Ebay) :

http://www.flippers.com/

They are in Canada.

If you decide to check with them : be sure to talk to John (the owner).
I see they have one listed on their website at 395.00 (WOW!) The last time I discussed mine with him (regarding crating and shipping from Canada)he said they do repair work on them. But who knows? Maybe he can give you some help

I checked with them the day after I got the machine and they couldnt help me.
I cant remember the amount of places that I have asked LOL but thx for the tip

[Eddie]

Eddie I'm sure you could find someone you know that can do this job locally its not that difficult to do .You don't know anyone that has some electronics background ? its a simple procedure to get the led unsolder ed and swapped with a known good one . i just don't have the time to get into it as dawn can tell you it takes me a while to do these things when my time allows it. radio shack sells a product called solder braid basically its a copper mesh that absorbs heated solder and leaves a clean PC board behind .I suggest you buy some and practice with another PC board if you wait to long before removing it you could rip up the copper land with it and to long with the soldering iron applied will destroy the led . the other method is to use a solder vac ,basically its a vacuum device that you use to suck up the solder when heated they work well with practice also . either way you need to use a 25-30 watt pencil soldering iron and shouldn't take more than an hour to swap two of the led displays from the pictures you showed . either way practice desoldering components from an old scrap board till you feel comfortable doing it .As for the led i know its not the same as the elco i was using that as an example of the problems LEDs encounter and its a famous example around here .the idea is to swap a good working led into the dead LEDs space to see if the driver is at fault or if its the led .the only other way is to actually trace the lands for the dead led back to the ic chip driver and look the chip number up online and read the pin outs with a meter to see if there is any voltages on any of the segments of the led when the led should be lit .trying to find a schematic for this pachinko is almost impossible as I'm sure these were modified by a third party as was mentioned before so the original manufacturer wouldn't have a clue about it and I'm sure the third party is long gone . but the scmatic diagrams for the chips are available online the only way to do this is to reverse engineer the board and that takes time and patients .You might find another one to compare it to but most are probably in the scrap heap long ago . Thats what makes these things so much fun you got one that survived the destruction .......after relooking at the pictures of the board i can tell you the three chips on the left (the ones you say are getting hot are indeed the led driver chips .now they may be over driven by too much voltage or are defective and shorting out due to a bad led display as i said its hard to tell via a computer image .

I already have all of the tools you mentioned and am very proficient with them. The problem is that the LEDs have many pins very close together and connected to relays on the opposite side of the board. I cant see how they were soldered on by hand as they are too fine. there would be no way that I could solder them without overlapping solder on the pins.

As for the processor ID numbers, here is the email I got back after emailing them, asking what was done. I received the board back without paperwork or an itemized invoice.

Can you suggest where to look online for what their functions are?

Edward. I am very confused.

You sent in a board.

We checked the board to component level.

We found bad parts.

We priced it up and sent you a repair quotation for $190.

You approved the repair by signing the quote and sending it back along with
your credit card info.

We proceeded with ordering the parts and repairing the board.

We replaced (2) SN7400 TTL Logic ICs (1) SN7402 TTL Logic IC (1) SN74121 TTL
Logic IC....these components were definitely bad and replaced with new.
Maybe you cannot tell which parts were replaced. Our soldering is good.

Your credit card was charged $190 plus shipping and the PCB was sent back to
you.

Please feel free to email or call if you have any further questions.