LOTR sensor mod

[chmer01]

thank you master i've even put a plug at the other end so the cell an be removed. i'd like to find some male and female plugs that match the two wire existing plugs so it could just be put in line without cutting the wiring

The two pin plugs look identical to the plugs on the fans in my computers. You should beable to find male/female plugs at you local computer store then. I will doulble check this to make sure and post my finds tomarrow.

Eric C.

[daverob]

i'd like to find some male and female plugs that match the two wire existing plugs so it could just be put in line without cutting the wiring

The plugs and sockets on Sankyo/Bisty machines with Victory and Lumina frames (and maybe a few others?) are the Molex Microclasp seres.

The cable end socket is part number 51382-0200 (for natural white plastic, good luck in finding any other colour!) and the pcb plug is 55932-0200.. You will also need the crimp contacts for the cable sockets, which are 56134-9100.

I've found these in stock at Farnell in the UK, so I'd expect that you can get them from Newark in the US. Note that when searching on their site for manufacturers part numbers, sometimes you have to leave the '-' in the number and sometimes it needs to be removed.

As far as powering a relay from the front card reader buttons, you'll probably find that there's not enough power available from the simple diode, resistor, capacitor circuit on the dongle's normally supplied with machines. (you might get away with it with a reed relay, or you could use a FET output optoisolator instead).

If you need to mod the dongle, then 24VAC is supplied from the machine on pins 1 and 25, and the dongle needs to supply 18v DC to pins 17 and 18, with ground connected to pins 8 and 9. The 24VAC supplied from the machine is fused at 1A, so should be enough for any experiements.

The way I've done it for my CR dongle mods, is to use a bridge rectifier on the incomming AC, feeding a 1000uF filter cap and a 7818 voltage regulator. You can then use a 12v coil relay in series with a resistor that's half the resistance of the coil to allow it to work on the 18v supply.

For this mod though I used a 5v reed relay in series with a resistor of 2.5 times the coil voltage permanently connected to the 18v supply. ie 18v to resistor, resistor to coil, coil to ground. The button connection is then connected to the resistor/coil junction, so that when the button is pressed the coil is 'shorted out' and the relay contact opens. Which gives us the normally closed/press to open contact that we need for the sensor mod.

The ball loan button is connected to pin 21 of the CR connector and the card return button is on pin 22. The other side of both switches are connected to the ground pins (8,9).

[drcrippen324]

hmmm so in theory you can have a mod attached to the dongle with a cable coming off that splices into the start pocket cable that will use the ball loan button on th efront so all you have to do is plug the dongle in and splice the start pocket cable ??

[daverob]

hmmm so in theory you can have a mod attached to the dongle with a cable coming off that splices into the start pocket cable that will use the ball loan button on th efront so all you have to do is plug the dongle in and splice the start pocket cable ??

Or if you buy the right connectors for the cable from the start pocket sensor to the main control board, then you've got a plug and play solution, and you don't need to cut any wires or find anywhere to mount the button.

Of course you need to find a source for the right type of connector, I've found the Sankyo ones, but I'm finding it harder to find the ones for other makes.

[Lazarus]

On my Fever King I traced all the wires to the start pocket and payouts. I also took apart the front tray to see what the buttons looked like. They are normally open switches so they don't work on the start pocket. BUT on the Fever King the payout pockets are not a normally closed circuit. Look into the opening on the start pocket. On the fever King each sensor has it's own sensor. But they are not like the sensor on the start pocket witch works using a closed circuit. The payout pocket has a little normally open switch in it and when the ball drops through it pushes the little switch closed and activating the sensor. The two buttons con be used to get more balls on the Fever King. As it has been pointed out just because it is the same from the cells and layout of the back boards can be different. Check your payout pockets for the switch. You will be able so see it if it has this type. You can activate it with a ball or a little flat screwdriver to test it. I started a thread about this but have bean to busy to Finnish it with the pictures.