LOTR sensor mod

[birdbrain]

well i took logic's advise and did a mod on my lotr but kinda hid it. see the pics. i had to hot glue the button in place as the plastic at this point was a little too thick to get the locking nut on. push the button and its the same a putting a ball in the start pocket.
heres the link to the original thread:
http://www.pachitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5279

[dattia]

You're really getting good BB

[Tulsa]

You have the inside piece covering the wires and keeping them out of the way of the ball feed right?

[birdbrain]

yes its tucked in and tywraped to the original wiring to the card buttons on the front.

[Tulsa]

Looks great then! Nice and tidy!

[birdbrain]

i used to build specialized machines for the big three.

[Tulsa]

The big three? IGT, Olympia and Sammy?

[Chrisdice]

thats nice BB, I just taped my switch to the top of the game. great work.

[birdbrain]

i need to disassemble and clean the tray anyway. next i have to tear down the door lots of smoke stains under the clear plastic.

[logicprobe]

VERY nice job... you have learned well, young penguin.

[birdbrain]

thank you master i've even put a plug at the other end so the cell an be removed. i'd like to find some male and female plugs that match the two wire existing plugs so it could just be put in line without cutting the wiring

[chmer01]

thank you master i've even put a plug at the other end so the cell an be removed. i'd like to find some male and female plugs that match the two wire existing plugs so it could just be put in line without cutting the wiring

The two pin plugs look identical to the plugs on the fans in my computers. You should beable to find male/female plugs at you local computer store then. I will doulble check this to make sure and post my finds tomarrow.

Eric C.

[daverob]

i'd like to find some male and female plugs that match the two wire existing plugs so it could just be put in line without cutting the wiring

The plugs and sockets on Sankyo/Bisty machines with Victory and Lumina frames (and maybe a few others?) are the Molex Microclasp seres.

The cable end socket is part number 51382-0200 (for natural white plastic, good luck in finding any other colour!) and the pcb plug is 55932-0200.. You will also need the crimp contacts for the cable sockets, which are 56134-9100.

I've found these in stock at Farnell in the UK, so I'd expect that you can get them from Newark in the US. Note that when searching on their site for manufacturers part numbers, sometimes you have to leave the '-' in the number and sometimes it needs to be removed.

As far as powering a relay from the front card reader buttons, you'll probably find that there's not enough power available from the simple diode, resistor, capacitor circuit on the dongle's normally supplied with machines. (you might get away with it with a reed relay, or you could use a FET output optoisolator instead).

If you need to mod the dongle, then 24VAC is supplied from the machine on pins 1 and 25, and the dongle needs to supply 18v DC to pins 17 and 18, with ground connected to pins 8 and 9. The 24VAC supplied from the machine is fused at 1A, so should be enough for any experiements.

The way I've done it for my CR dongle mods, is to use a bridge rectifier on the incomming AC, feeding a 1000uF filter cap and a 7818 voltage regulator. You can then use a 12v coil relay in series with a resistor that's half the resistance of the coil to allow it to work on the 18v supply.

For this mod though I used a 5v reed relay in series with a resistor of 2.5 times the coil voltage permanently connected to the 18v supply. ie 18v to resistor, resistor to coil, coil to ground. The button connection is then connected to the resistor/coil junction, so that when the button is pressed the coil is 'shorted out' and the relay contact opens. Which gives us the normally closed/press to open contact that we need for the sensor mod.

The ball loan button is connected to pin 21 of the CR connector and the card return button is on pin 22. The other side of both switches are connected to the ground pins (8,9).

[Youngjedi]

Can we do this?

....There are two buttons on both my pachinko's (LOTR and STAR WARS) that aren't used. They are the attendant buttons. Can these (or just one) be used to mod the start pocket or the "win balls" pocket? Has anyone checked to see is these are momentary buttons? If these would work, please let me know. I will trace the wire and come up with a nice Mod.

[birdbrain]

those switches are normally open you need normally closed. a relay could be added to do this. buy if you unplug that harness the machine faults. dont know if you ca disconect a switch from the plug or not.give it a try

[Youngjedi]

Is there a Dongle mod that would close that circuit and leave me the button to play with?

[birdbrain]

tomorrow i'll cut the wires and see what happens for you.

[Youngjedi]

Don't sacrifice your machine...I'm no electrictian, but if the wires are cut, they become an open circuit. Twist them back together, and they are closed...right? if that's the case, can the original button contacts be reversed to be normally open and then connected to the Start pocket?

This would be a super MOD!

[birdbrain]

the switch is normally open ie: no contact across the wires in its normal state.when you push the button it makes contact between the 2 wires. this is exactly the opposite of what you want.being that they a re micro switches in a circuit board id bet there are no normally closed contacts in this switch. you would have to use this switch to enegize a n.c. relay so when you pushed the button it would put power to the relay and open up the start circuit that you would have run thru the relay.

[logicprobe]

You can NOT use a normally open push button, and have it work properly (maintain play integrity).

It might SEEM like it is at first, by pressing it a few times and seeing a result... BUT the pocket would be dead during normal play (not pushed).
BECAUSE the pocket sensor circuit would then be NORMALLY OPEN, and making no path.

Kapish?