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#1 |
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Sandwich Shooter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Local Time: 05:51 PM
Local Date: 03-19-2010
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Machine Name: Thunder 1998
Purchased From: Craigslist
HI!
I just picked up a Thunder Pachislo (cheap) from a guy on Craigslist. It seems okay but the coin mechanism is broken. The black plastic piece that is the frame (backbone) of the mechanism is cracked in two. He had taken it out to look at it and dropped it. I have tried Krazy glue, Goop and Testors cement, none of which work. they all just seem to harden and I can scratch them off. Anyone know what glue works? |
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#2 |
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Sandwich Shooter
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I would try epoxy or gorilla glue.
if you use gorilla glue, don't put too much, because it increase in size 3 or 4 time it's initial size.. |
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#3 |
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Kungishi
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If using epoxy...take some 80 grit sand paper and rough up the surface (not the crack). after gluing the crack, if there is room, spread some epoxy on the back of the cracked area and add a piece of fiberglass. if you don't have fiberglass cloth, any fabric will do. it will soak up the epoxy and create a permanent "taped" bond to the two pieces of plastic.
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__________________
Youngjedi |
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#4 | |
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Eye Shooter
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Quote:
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#5 |
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Sandwich Shooter
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hello Pinball Wizard!
Do you know if the coin mechanism is made of polyolefin? It seems that 3M has invented an adhesive especially for it but it is a bit pricey. Link to it on Amazon> Amazon.com: 3M - Adhesives DP-8005 Plastic Adhesive: Home Improvement I wouldn't want to shell out 30 bucks if it isn't the right stuff. I have a friend who is going to bring over some Ambroid Power Weld that he thinks will work. 3M also makes this ($18 a Quart) #4693 • 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive 4693: low viscosity grade for spray or brush application. • 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive 4693H: high viscosity grade in collapsible tubes for flow applications. • Clear, elastomeric adhesives with high immediate bond strength, long tack range and contact bond properties. • Exhibit outstanding bond strength to many metals and many plastics such as ABS, glass filled polyester, polypropylene, linear polyethylene and hi-impact styrene. • Dries to a tough, flexible and transparent film with good resistance to water and aging. Note: Not recommended for use on plasticized vinyl. Use on plasticized vinyl may result in poor adhesion or bonds that deteriorate over time. It runs about $7.00 or $8.00 a 5 oz tube |
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#6 |
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Goodwill Ambassador
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how about the stuff for sealing plastic plumbing pipes together???
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__________________
幸運わんわん Luckydog or Yukiwanwan in Japanese |
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#7 |
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Sandwich Shooter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Local Time: 05:51 PM
Local Date: 03-19-2010
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Hi Luckydog!!!
Yes, I am checking that out as well. its seems PVC adhesives use M.E.K as their secret ingredient. Going to be buying a pint at the Depot tomorrow as well as borrow some PVC adhesive to test as well! I will let you know if I find something that positively works. Doing a lot of tiny chip tests on the part. I am wondering if Pinball Wizard is right about it being polyolefin. Trying to find a way to positively identify the material. I suspect he is right. |
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#8 |
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Eye Shooter
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i work in the automotive collision repair industry,and we have to fix broken polypropylene,or polyethylene parts from time to time.adhesive does not stick without an adhesion promoter,the best way to fix those parts is by welding them.there is a special welder available,but you can get by using a soldering gun.if the glue comes off of the plastic when dry,it is probably a polyolefin plastic.if you have a piece of that plastic off of the mech,put it in a container filled with water and see if it floats.if it does,it is probably polyolefin .
______________________________________________________ do you have a picture of the broken part?that might help us to see what we're dealing with. |
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Last edited by pinball wizard; 10-31-2009 at 10:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#9 |
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Tokie Owens
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Local Time: 04:51 PM
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yeah thermoset and thermoplastics make a big difference when plastic welding... i've got a plastic welder too
definately your best bet if you can do it... second best thing would be using thin sheets of metal and blind rivets if you can?______________________________________________________ oh, one way to positively identify diff types of plastics is specific gravity... since you're probably not going to be doing calculus and measuring with micrometers... another way to do it is the flame test. (IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH PARENTAL CONSENT WHERE APPLICABLE) every type of plastic burns with different characteristics you can take a thin sliver from an edge and find a flame chart online somewhere (or here: Boedeker Plastics : How to Identify Plastic Materials Using The Burn Test ) i have a book about it somewhere, some drip, some crack, some fizz, some char yadda yadda good luck lemme know if i can be of anymore help
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Last edited by dw0r; 11-01-2009 at 02:26 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#10 |
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Eye Shooter
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if it's a thermoset plastic,your welder will not readily melt the plastic.i was looking at some of my pachinkos a little while ago,and it seems the japanese use the same identifier codes on their pachinko plastic parts as they do on their cars.i think this would also be the case on their slots as well.are there any 2-4 letter codes,like abs,pc,pp,pe,pvc ,tpur,pur on that broken part?
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#11 |
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Kungishi
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If you go with a pvc or abs cement...do some tests first. They don't just glue two pieces of plastic together, they "melt" them chemically. it the plastic is real thin, I would worry about warping or distorting the plastic shape.
Good Luck! |
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Youngjedi |
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#12 |
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Dr. Frankenpachi
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goto home depot and get jb weld .its a two piece epoxy it should do the trick .get the quick set type the regular one takes forever to set .the quick set starts to set in 5 min. i use it to reseal batteries when i replace the cells in them at work .after it sets you can trim excess off with an exacto knife .then let sit for 24hours for it to fully bond and it should be ready for use .
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Jeff Last edited by alstonj1; 11-01-2009 at 07:08 AM. |
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#13 |
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Sandwich Shooter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Local Time: 05:51 PM
Local Date: 03-19-2010
Posts: 377
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Thanks Received: 627
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Hi!
I have been experimenting without success so far. There are not markings on the plastic to identify it but I can see the injection spots and the surface grain from the flow of the plastic. I tried floating it but it sank - so maybe not polyolefin? I will test epoxy on a spot to see its adhesiveness. the problem is the part is broken in two pieces (top to bottom) so I am concerned about strength even though it really only hang on the door and has coins dropped into it. Want to make sure it will last a goo long while. |
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#14 |
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Goodwill Ambassador
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duct tape fixes everything
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__________________
幸運わんわん Luckydog or Yukiwanwan in Japanese |
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| The following user says "Thanks" to luckydog |
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#15 |
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Sandwich Shooter
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I've always had good luck with epoxy. One secret is to rough up the surface first and when appying, feather it out away from the crack so it's thickest on the crack and then goes thinner and thinner until it's flush. Good luck.
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#16 |
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Waste not, Want not
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the mighty putty, or plumber's putty, is very sticky and you could make a hump of it along the outside of each crack for strength. I glued a top tray on a pachinko at 2 corners and it's very strong. HG man used this stuff on his vintage tray, too.
jb weld is epoxy, too, but a little more liquid. it will firm up with time to a clay like consistency, too. wrap around the outside with fiberglass tape and I can't imagine it failing. |
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| Tags |
| broken , coin , glueing , mech |
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