Kagetsu Densetsu Palot

[mudfud]

hey guys. I made some minor mods to the chute and the E 03 errors are mostly gone (balls still back up quickly and then cause the error). I studied the chutes for awhile and saw from birdbrain's earlier post that there was a triangular piece that wasn't present on my chute. the lower chute has its floor raised nicely with hot glue and a piece of plastic. by putting the vertical wall back between the chutes, the balls stay in line one at a time (no crowding there, pachi balls) and two balls don't get stuck at the narrow part of the chute.

next job is to find a place to put the pachicounter sensor. I might cut a small window with a dremel to have the sensor along the first chute's path.

[mudfud]

Originally Posted by new in town

8 locking tabs to open, 4 connectors to disconnect. Three on the inner door frame and one on the main body of the machine upper left corner by the door hinge. It has three wires.

Pop off the panel, remove 9 screws on the upper / inner frame bar and remove that bar and your at those concealed bulbs. 21 bulbs total on the frame.

doooh!

if you don't need to replace the bulbs under the brackets, you can just twist them right out of the door, without removing the front frame.

I, of course, took the whole door apart before I realized this...

then, replaced the 3 bad bulbs, BUT, I found out that the second from the top bulb on the right side is not getting a signal... I unplugged and reseated all the plugs and it still isn't lighting. bulb is checked good.

so, I could leave the one bulb out (and have it bug me), or try to figure out where in the circuit i'm losing the signal... OR, wire that bulb in parallel to one above or below it (this will work for most lightings of all 5 bulbs, but the sequential lighting will be a bit off... 1, 2, 3&4, 5 will come on... and the 135 alternating 24 will be 1235, 4 instead, too.

any thoughts on where to start looking for the bad trace/connection?

btw, all four of the colored lights on the left side were out, and replugging the connectors fixed that (thanks eddie!)

sure are a lot more complicated electrical things to debug on moderns!

[new in town]

Try swapping that bulb with another in the door Frame First. If that does not do it I'll do some research on the wiring. Go ahead and keep the mod Piece.

[new in town]

O.K. This is the time I'm normally at work so I took a look at it.

First, If you have not reseated the blue plug to the left of the Volume slide switch, try that first.

Read this through Fully at least three times before you proceed.

If you mean the right side being the side by the door key. The left silver contact in the frame where the bulb twists in is the ground for all the bulbs on that side. The right silver tab, (towards the middle of the door as you look at it) is the +.

The multi colored cable by the bulb in question that is short and connects to the inboard of the frame. The green wire on the right side bank of pins on the plug 3 down from the top is that signal wire for the +. From the top right bank of wires they should go 1-white, 2-purple, 3-green.

The other side of that cable (inboard of the first plug) the plug is installed upside down. So that green wire is on the left side of the two banks of pins, 3 up from the bottom.

That signal comes back out of the 2 bank 38 pin red connector full of gray wires inboard of the inboard multi colored connector that is upside down and has the green wire on the left bank of pins 3 up from the bottom.

DID I LOOSE YOU YET?



The bulbs + signal on the red plug with the gray wires is on the right side bank of pins, 6 up from the bottom.

The other end of that gray harness which is the blue connector. (to the left of the volume control slide switch) The top row of pins, 6 in from the left. That blue plug has female pin in it.

If resetting the blue connector did not fix the problem, connect your meter from the right silver tab in the frame where the bulb socket inserts and the other end at the blue connector to the left of the volume control, top row of pins, 6 in from the left. (the connector side, not the mother board side) The top row of female pins on that connector has a Tab in the middle of it.

Use a small sewing needle to make the connection on the Blue connector. If it reads good, (0 Ohms), the problem is in the mother board. Make sure that pin on the blue receptacle on the mother board is not bent.

It it reads open then connect you meter between the two green wires on the short multi colored cable from both green wires and from the red connector right side bank of pins, 6 up from the bottom and the blue connector top row of pins, 6 in from the left.

Hope I did not Confuse you TOO Much.

The Helicopter I work on has 6 Miles of wire in it and about 10,000 connector pins. Trust me !!! I do this for a living.

You should Read the Pass Down's I give to my other shifts when we are troubleshooting a wiring problem. Some of the connectors have over 100 pins in them.

Oh Yea.

Spoiler

Copy this and print it out. That will be a BIG help.

[MrGneiss]

[mudfud]

OK... swapping bulbs didn't work... BUT

pushing on the blue connector next to the volume control did!!

I didn't even have to read the below part 3 times...

THANKS!!

[new in town]

Congrats on getting "ALL" the Bulbs Working.

I'm sure your Electric Company appreciates it.

[mudfud]

well, luckily we have a surplus of electricity here from the solar panels; so i'm always looking for ways to use the electricity (PG&E does not credit from one year to the next, so you lose any extra electricity stored up)... hey, maybe I need more modern pachi's?

[hanabi]

Originally Posted by mudfud

well, luckily we have a surplus of electricity here from the solar panels; so i'm always looking for ways to use the electricity (PG&E does not credit from one year to the next, so you lose any extra electricity stored up)... hey, maybe I need more modern pachi's?

I'd say YES!!

You most certainly need more pachis to tap into the surplus electricity!!

Congratulations on getting the lights sorted